Entry posted by 45609
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Quite a while ago I said I'd post up a few comments about the painting process I employ on the locos featured in my blog. This blog entry has been in draft for some time because I've pondered over how much detail to include. In the end I guessed it would be best to publish and see what comments/questions arrive.
The first stage of the painting process involves a thorough cleaning and degreasing. I can't really stress enough how much cleanliness is to the success of the whole process. I will typically give the model a number of cleaning steps to get every last vestige of gunge, flux and glass fibres off the model. Step one is the general clean and I've found the Cillit Bang Universal Degreaser and Grime & Lime products to be very useful for neutralising and removing the c-r-a-p. The next cleaning step is gentler with warm water and the ultrasonic bath. It is surprising how much crud still comes from unseen locations and if it is particularly bad I'm not averse to going back to do more of step one. Finally I will give the model a serious degrease by immersion and agitation in cellulose thinners. This will remove any oils, fats and residue that was missed by the first two steps. Don't forget that dunking in cellulose is not a good thing to do if your model has any plastic or glued together parts on it. Isopropyl Alcohol is a better option in this case.
Once clean the locos are always handled whilst wearing disposable nitrile gloves, the un-powdered variety for preference, again thinking about cleanliness. The last thing you want is talcum powder falling onto your freshly cleaned or painted surface when you pull the gloves off. I get mine from a local safety supplies business along with the disposable "SOCO" suits I wear when spraying. The final and most essential piece of equipment is a breathing mask. Whilst cellulose paint and thinners is not as nasty as some paints it is still hazardous to health and appropriate steps need to be taken to protect yourself. The mask I use has activated carbon and particulate filters. Anything less is a waste of money and will not give adequate protection. One thing to remember for the beardies amongst us is that you will get a better seal on your mask if you shave off the fuzz beforehand. If you can smell the paint you are breathing it in.
On to the painting proper the first step, for metal models, is to apply a coat of 2 pack etch primer. As far as I know the stuff I use is the same as the etch primer sold by Precision Paints. It smells the same and is the same beige colour. I purchased mine from a local trade vehicle paint supplier (i.e. 1 litre of paint and 1 litre of activator/thinner). 2 litres of etch primer cost about the same as 250ml from PP and I'll have enough to last me a long time with careful storage. The primer is made by Tetrosyl and for anyone who is interested in obtaining paint in the way I do this link may be a good starting point.
The thinning ratios for spraying are 1 part paint, 1 part activator thinners and 2 parts cellulose thinners. If you follow the 1 part paint to 1 part activator thinners instructions on the tin the paint will form cobwebs and strings as it hits raised detail on the model. How do I know this.......? Essentially the paint is dry before it hits the model and that is the one thing that you don't want.
I think that might be a good point to stop for now. After applying the primer the next stage cannot be tackled for at least 24 hours. So the best thing to do is get out of your alien autopsy outfit, pack up, have a cup of tea and wait until tomorrow.
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