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5512 Part 5 (photo)


The Fatadder

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Following on from yesterdays post on 5512, here is the missing photo

 

It clearly shows where the quartering on the centre axle has shifted, and hopefully also shows the added finness from using the Mitchell components rather than the standard Bachmann parts.

 

Last night I soldered up the final part of the driving rods (whatever they are supposed to be called) and removed the locating rod from the Bachmann sliders. it now needs a .6mm hole drilling through the sliders and the rods, although this is now waiting on either an Eiliens order or visiting a show so that I can buy more drill bits)

 

Also the model is showing a bit of ghosting of the old Great Western logos showing through the paint, a coat of satin varnish will rectify this.

 

To finish of the body for now, I will get a set of etched number plates ordered (along with number plates for the other 4 locos that are in the works, and my pair of Castles (Nunney and Berkeley) that are intended for the display case.

 

 

 

blogentry-54-0-58377100-1339443719_thumb.jpg

 

 

edit: I should add the photo is taken on what will become my indoor test plank, a couple of short sidings and what will eventually have a few structures in the style of those on Cheddar, along with I hope some working point rodding again as a practice for Cheddar. While its only about 3ft by 2ft, it should give enough to give newly converted stock a good test run (and give something to play with when studying for my Strategic CIMA in November )

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The quartering has shifted a long way I am afraid.

 

There are those that pin the wheels to the axles; I have nver done this and reckong I would screw things up but with a piller drill it can be done.

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Hello Fatadder,

 

As Portchullin Tatty says, it may be possible to drill and pin the wheels. However, I am currently experimenting with an Exacto saw blade cut in the axle end, and then pressing a brass wire pin into the plastic of the wheel using a hot soldering iron. Sounds awful, but so far it's worked OK... trim the wire to length, cover with Milliput... bish bash bosh. This has worked for a Y6 chassis that I had fitted with Sharman wheels. For some reason - presumably linked to my ham-fistedness - the interference fit between axle and wheel had become more of a passing acquaintance.

 

Keep on keeping on.

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  • RMweb Gold

Will be taking my quartering jig home at the weekend and re set the wheels with that

 

I was also thinking of locking the wheel in position with locktite

If that fails I will give pinning a try

 

 

Just noticed the dodgy wheel is also missing a balance weight, so will have to get that reglued as well

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Rich,

 

You're possibly going to hate this, but from the photo it does rather look like the oil boxes on the crankpins are pointing downwards instead of upwards (ie: the rods are on the wrong side!). Is this so or is it a trick of the eye?

 

Hope you sort the quartering issue!

 

T

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  • RMweb Gold

Good spot Tim

 

They were originally on the right way round, then I dismantled again while I drilled out the mounts for the pony trucks and clearly have put the wheelsets in upside down!

 

Will take more time to ensure they go in the right way round when I dismantle to rectify the quartering.

 

Hopefully will be able to find some suitable wire to fabricate some pickups while I work on finishing off the keeper plate (refitting the suspension springs etc) Really want to get a loco working!

 

Another question,

The Bachmann 3 pole motor, is it worth replacing it with a better quality motor to improve running?

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  • RMweb Gold

Well, I've taken the rods off and fitted the washers, but it looks like a couple of the crank pins are not fully square. Must say I was very disappointed to find them not pre drilled (and no warning when purchasing)

 

Once my next batch of modern stock has sold I am planning to place an order with Ultrascale (wheels for my 43xx, 2251 and a 58xx) and may well stick a pack of Ultrascales for 5512 while I am at it.

 

The other issue I have found with the rods is that there is not enough space on the crank pin to fit the con rod and the driving rod + a crank pin nut

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