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14xx episode 7 - turning tyres pt2

28ten

Entry posted by 28ten

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Lots of pictures here, they make more sense than my ramblings, so I will just stick to a few comments for each one, I must stress this is not the perfect/best way of tackling this job, but it works for me with the tools I have. For those who are interested I used to have a Myford ML7 with DROs and I really miss them, they are especially useful for this sort of job.

If you have any questions fire away.

The essential measuring tools, I have two 2-3 inch micrometers to save adjusting them for dimensions. both were bought off ebay for under a tenner. you can also see my working drawing prepared in 'crap-o-cad'

 

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All tools prepared adjusted for height and ready

 

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Loctite for attaching the tyre to the rim, I apply a small amount to the scrap piece before applying it to the rim with a cocktail stick as I don't want any foreign matter entering the bottle

 

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These diamond sticks are handy if you need to quickly hone a tool

 

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I use a 2inch DTI to measure the cross slide travel, this is very accurate and you don't have to worry about backlash. Really a poor mans DRO

 

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The center glued into the 'tyre', if you have bored accurately this is gentle push fit, do not use force the wheel will distort

 

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The bar is turned to the OD of the flange in this case 1.450"

 

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The tread is then cut in, I don't bother with the taper as it is very slight and the form tool will remove the excess to make the taper.

 

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I used a parting tool to turn a recess to clear the back of the form tool, otherwise the form tool is cutting the waste from the back of the tread, the form tool shot should make this clear.

 

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The form tool ready to cut, I line this up with the face of the tyre and move it .193" inwards this gives the correct tyre width for GWR locos of .133"

 

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Everything is locked up, the tread is blued with a felt tip and the form tool fed in firmly but slowly, the work is rotating at 40rpm, even then there is a small amount of chatter present.

 

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The tread is formed and given a light polish, ready for parting off

 

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Job done, just the rear of the wheel to be cleaned after parting. there is a little extra on the top flange but this will come off in the final polish when it's mounted on the axles.

 

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Only three more to do:lol:

 

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28ten
Nice bit of machining the wheels look superb :D . What lathe do you have now?

 

Regards

 

Peter

 

Only a Sieg C3 :(, but it has been tweaked with roller bearings, the underside of the bed has been milled, gibs replaced etc etc.... I think DRO's are next addition, but its not a cheap proposition the display unit is ??170, then there is the scales to add to that, so I think horizontal digital scales might be a more reasonable idea, the whole lot should come in under ??100

I couldn't get the ML7 into my current space, and in fairness the C3 does everything I need.

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Bogusman

Only a Sieg C3 :(, but it has been tweaked with roller bearings, the underside of the bed has been milled, gibs replaced etc etc.... I think DRO's are next addition, but its not a cheap proposition the display unit is ??170, then there is the scales to add to that, so I think horizontal digital scales might be a more reasonable idea, the whole lot should come in under ??100

I couldn't get the ML7 into my current space, and in fairness the C3 does everything I need.

 

Thanks for the info. I have a unimat 1 at the moment which does what i require at the moment but i am looking for something slightly bigger (it was ok when i was still in toolmaking as all i had to do was machine what ever i wanted at work in my time).

 

Regards

Peter

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28ten

 

Thanks for the info. I have a unimat 1 at the moment which does what i require at the moment but i am looking for something slightly bigger (it was ok when i was still in toolmaking as all i had to do was machine what ever i wanted at work in my time).

 

Regards

Peter

The C3 is a nice size that can be lifted by two people, ideal for up to gauge one. and you obviously have the skill to tweak it, these two sites might be helpful.

mini lathe

Gadget builder

 

there are also come cnc conversions out there if you fancy that!!!

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Bogusman

The C3 is a nice size that can be lifted by two people, ideal for up to gauge one. and you obviously have the skill to tweak it, these two sites might be helpful.

mini lathe

Gadget builder

 

there are also come cnc conversions out there if you fancy that!!!

 

Thanks for the sites. I dont know if i could go back to CNC as it kept me busy writing or editing on fanuc,heidihiem and general G coding as its been a few years since i last done it.

 

Regards

 

Peter

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Buckjumper

I have got to get my head around using a lathe again. It's been a very long time so I'd either need to find someone local who's prepared to instruct, or failing that a decent book. Now that I've dipped a toe or two into S Scale modelling (wheels castings sans tyres available for GER locos thanks to Trevor Nunn) I can't procrastinate for much longer.

 

The wheels are looking great!

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Horsetan

That is really instructive.

 

I have a Unimat 4 that was recently acquired. It may be capable of turning out S4 / P87 tyres once I learn how to use the thing!

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Mikkel
  • RMweb Gold

I like the various measuring tools - thought they were more costly than what you indicate. Thanks for the tip.

 

 

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