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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/02/11 in all areas

  1. Update Good morning - A little progress Monday night, but some better progress last night, aided and abetted by Gin Tonics and this time I have taken some shots outside in natural light. I have been progressing the old clay dries building by firstly installing lintels above the openings and secondly starting the curved roof cladding. I had wanted to represent the 'scraggy' ends to the asbestos panels but after cutting out a few ribs it resembled more like missing teeth as it was too chunky, so I may attack the leading ends with a razor saw instead. The roof cladding has been built up as per my last method which involves laying thin strips of double sided tape, which just give enough of a ridge between the sheets to give the sense of horizontal overlapping. I have then washed the joints in Mek Pak (discolored version soon to be replaced by inbound new bottle of ) to just help strengthen them. I need to complete the first layer of the roof and then add the second raised layer which looks to be spaced above to allow ventilation and includes a few rooflights too, which I will model. Then, atop of this, another louvred ridge. Also I have included the strange little projection in the roof, which used to be connected by a high level walkway across the tracks, which has since been removed but I am modelling circa 1980 when it was in use. The door gives high level access to the old clay dries, one presumes. I also had a first stab at the fuel oil store. This is essential a circular stone clad building (I really seem to pick them ) and last night I 'borrowed' a plastic cannister of multi vitamins and have wrapped in double sided tape the stone cladding around it. I have to work on the joint but this will be at the rear so not so viewable. More work is to be done detailing this. I have included a photo of my workbench as 'Smokey Bacon Steve' was asking how much I worked by drawing and it indicates the sort of level of detail I draw on the carcass prior to covering. Most has been gauged by photographs, past and present as I expect it would be too difficult to source the original drawings. That's about all for now...a few pics attached... The workbench...main cladding lines have been marked out on the carcass... Cladding applied with double sided tape with Mek Pak to reinforce the joints... In context...must finish that 37 off... And again... Time shift for Mark 46444...who has been asking for a while to see this... And again...
    3 points
  2. Unmarked railroad crossings are often protected by the train crew throwing red flares onto the road before crossing, as per this video.. at 1:19 in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=td-Zz8UdLTs I have been trying to work out how to do this and came up with these Fibre optic shoelaces about £5 of ebay for a pair (2 light units) hole drilled in the road and the fibre optic rubber "lace" pushed up from underneath, bit of paint and a piece of wire for the flare body.. and here they are in action http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mg3eUTpHOOo&hd=1 John
    1 point
  3. Well, after a few days earning the mortgage & keeping the Chancellor in his acustomed luxury, it was back to the workbench. Job for today - get as far forward with the watertank as possible (more work tommorrow )(Overtime - ). As can be seen, the sides & ends are in six separate pieces. Ok, it looks like three but I've already soldered the flare units in place!. Nice little job for the RSU. Note, there are no tabs to locate the sides in the footplate... Normal procedure these days is to form the sides/end as a 'wrapper' - but there we go! Instructions are a but thin on the ground ('end goes between the sides'). Unfortunately the end is 'handed' for the footsteps (one side only & the instructions don't say which side - & of couse there's no drawing...) The flare was formed round a suitable diameter rod (actially the handle of a swiss file. Either the brass is naturally soft or the RSU annealed it!) Here, the sides/end are assembled - any gap in the junction of the 'flare' was filled with solder and filed to shape (it actually went together quite well & didn't require much fettling). At this point the instructions said to add the steps (bet they are on the wrong side...!). As the tank top is the next to go in place, I also added the handrail knobs - much easier! At the front end the tank top support frames sit inside the sides. The instructions state 'the location of the supports is not critical'... I don't trust statements like that, and shows how I spaced them from the sides so they would (coincidentally) sit over the edges of the hole in the footplate. Nearly done for the day. The instructions say 'shape the tank top to follow the supports, then trim to length'. Again I expected problems, but perhaps I'm a little jaundiced! Anyway, about 30 mins later she's not looking too bad! Still got the front end and top detailing to do. Might get that done tommorrow evening if I'm lucky - if not - Friday. Oh yes... Those c...ed brake hangers... A careful study of the drawing in Russel Vol 2 shows they were suspended from the outside frames. So there's a thought! Regs Ian
    1 point
  4. I've started many projects... and finished very few and Having bought a Bachmann Presflo that's largely out of my modelling period I thought I'd have a go at at making a miniature diorama to display it. I took some very loose inspiration from this little corner of the Trafford Park estates; http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&q=john+gilbert+way&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=John+Gilbert+Way,+Trafford+M17+1,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.466184,-2.298103&spn=0,0.003433&t=h&z=19&layer=c&cbll=53.465513,-2.297591&panoid=IOxEuRXZ21KXNzlVgxuikw&cbp=12,1.12,,1,11.18 Below are some images of the project (hopefully in chronological order), the frame is a very cheap postcard size wooden frame sprayed black (with the glass still in place, and a plywood base cut to fit within the frame that rests above the glass. The rear walls are some scrappy foamboard with embossed plasticard brick sheets (I believe they are from Slaters and might actually be 7mm scale). Other bits are from the odds and sods box. Bricks were weathered with Humbrol matt scarlett(60) and ivory(41) paints, the ballast is woodland scenics medium light gray B81. The grass is a mixture of woodland scenics medium green turf and painted and dried sisal mixed with a little bit of static grass. There's still a fair bit to do, I really need to give anything a general wash, weather a few leaks from the drainpipe and also weather the wagon a fair bit, though i might try and get hold of one without the name-boards to represent one at the end it's life.
    1 point
  5. You're making excellent progress, the steel minerals look great. As do the woodens! A couple of suggestions: Don't forget to go over the strapping on the Hunting wagon, you've got your wood colour going over it on one side. Try erasing the lettering on the planks you are going to paint with your fibreglass pen. I can see some poking out from underneath on the Hunting. Ric
    1 point
  6. I've got 300 wagons and opens that need doing for LMJ...do I hear a volunteer? I'd certainly be happy to let you loose on them..crack on! Mike
    1 point
  7. They look really good to me, the wooden ones with the replaced planks look most appealing to me. I think you have cracked it! I would be more than happy if I could reproduce something similar in 2mm. Missy
    1 point
  8. The outside of all of the wagons looks good, as does the inside of the wooden wagons. The interior of the steel wagons loks a bit too clean and uniform to my eyes, see this pic for an example of a well used wagon interior. Paul.
    1 point
  9. Absolutely stunning! I'd love you to do a step by step guide on this - particularly the wooden vehicles - the results are truely astonishing - you'd never believe that they are all actually made of plastic - the planks really do look wooden! Best Regards, Alan
    1 point
  10. Looking good - I'll be following this with interest as I'm starting to get itchy fingers for one of the Judith Edge kits (either a Sentinel or the Thomas Hill Vanguard they do). Keep us posted..... Are you going for the 27:1 reduction ratio on the Black Beetle? I had a supplier recently warn me that this ratio resulted in very slow running, as if this was a bad thing...... Alastair
    1 point
  11. That's a bit of a b*gg*r :icon_sad: Though maybe it explains the mismatch you showed before between the front piece and the bonnet? If so, it does rather look like the fold lines were in the wrong place.
    1 point
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