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Showing content with the highest reputation on 14/05/11 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    A special occasion at our 009 Society meeting tonight, THE FIRST TRAIN at Isle Ornsay!!!! The loco is Society member Charlie Insley's conversion of the Parkside Dundas W&L #85 kit on a Fleischmann 2-6-2T chassis. Nice to see things moving under their own power! The only wired bits of track were the two platform roads, so there's still lots to do before one can make it's way along the entire length of the layout.
  2. 1 point
    After the bogie coach I thought I'd try something a bit smaller and more complex. The main problem with T scale wheels is that they are designed to be held in bogies and the bogies have points that go into the wheels not pinpoints on wheels. They are also of course very small. For this wagon I drilled 0.4mm holes into the centre of each wheel (down the existing dip) and superglued fine wire. The next problem was bearings. After about five failed experiments I hit upon the answer- N gauge handrail knobs, with the loop for the wire acting as the bearing. It runs, although its a bit rough. I got slightly too much glue on the rods into the wheels seems to be the reason so I know next time what is needed to get smoother running. Then again after the number of obscenities emitted I might build a bogie wagon instead ! Needs more paint and weathering but it'll pass with a bit of dirt.
  3. 1 point
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8TI503k9VA A little film I made today about backdrop painting and some landscape painting . Source: Backdrop painting video
  4. 1 point
    I decided to give the loco some buffers the other day, which was not as straightforward as you'd think, something to do with one hole in the bufferbeam being .6mm lower than the other... I needed to open the holes out to 3mm to suit the Gibson buffers that I'm using so whilst one hole was simply opened out with a broach and tapered reamer the offending hole was moved upwards using a round file and broach alternately. Here's how it looked before I started, the low hole is on the right; How on earth did that got past the design stage? Then I decided to add the exhaust, not provided in the kit or mentioned in the instructions. I measured the size (3.5" dia.) and position on the Heritage Shunters Trust 05 and, after marking the position and drilling an appropiate sized hole, soldered in a length of 1mm thin wall tube. The tube was cut after soldering and the cut end cleaned up with file and wet and dry board. (I have a couple of small pieces of wood with wet and dry glued to them - very usefull). A pic; And so onto the steps. The steps are in 3 pieces, two tread plates and a backing plate. The backing plate is etched to length which is all very well but means that you have a butt joint where it meets the footplate. Here's the etch; Now I'm fairly good at soldering but I coudn't see the point of struggling with butt jointed steps. So I bought some 5mm x .3mm brass strip to make up new backing plates, the strip is above the etch in the above photo. I marked out the length of the backing plate, then used a scrawker and square file to make a half-etched fold line, folded up the step and the cut it off the strip with a 3mm long section left on to attach under the footplate. A fillet of 188 degree solder behind the bend adds strength. The treadplates don't have etched fold lines, the part that attaches to the backing plate is already half etched. So I again used a scrawker to generate a fold line and a Hold'n'Fold to bend them to shape. Like this; To solder the tread plates to the backing plate I tinned the tread plates with 188 degree solder and used my RSU to solder them in place. The RSU is perfect for this type of work as the probe can be used to hold the part in place whilst generating heat to make the joint. All good so far; As you've possibly noticed (assuming your still awake...) I've been using 188 degree solder so far. This is because I wanted to use 145 degree solder to attach the steps to the footplate, the theory being that using less heat means that the step assemblies are less likely to come un-soldered. Which I'm happy to say worked just fine! Again the RSU came in very handy. Here's a pic of the build so far; Still much to do, I reckon its time to get the chassis running.
  5. 1 point
    I have started to paint some of the clouds now on my backdrop, I sketched up the clouds with a thin white paint and made the shadows with a gray-blue hue: The clouds closest to the horizon have some Ochre in them to give them some warmth. The clouds are piling up ....: I'm trying to make the clouds with as little planning as possible to make them realistic in shape and form. Here I have begun to define the clouds with pure white and some Payne's Grey: It's important not to get them to pale or too "heavy", photos to look at is definitely a good idea! So far I have come this far. No way near finished.... But there's more to come. I was at the local art-store and bought these: They are 12 mm in diameter, made of wood and flat on one side. Maybe you ask what I'm going to do with them? Well it is going to be revealed as I will show you, it is inspired by Tim Warris from Fast-trax. I started my project by cutting a pair of 25 mm wide strips of hardboard which I glued with Pattex "No Nails" at the bottom of my front fascia on my layout: I let the glue dry before I marked the center-line on the strips and then marked out every 6 cm on it. Then I glued on my "buttons": Perhaps now you see where it´s heading..... Rivets in a long row At the joints in the strips I put them closer to each side of the gap. When the glue dried, I painted the front in a Terracotta orange color (test jar with half a liter for £ 5...). I used a foam roller and a small brush: As can be seen above, I have begun to sponge on a little dark brown paint as a test. I want it to look like a rusty old riveted steel structure when I'm done. I added the diluted dark brown craft-color in small sections with a brush, then I sponged the surface with a natural sponge. It gives a nice "rust-like" surface that I think goes well with my Harbour layout. Starting to look good to me... This is how it looks when shot with a flash: As you can see it will match the rust on the barge pretty good .... B) A bit more work to do on it, but I expects to finish the project before the weekend anyway. Small update: I took a pic today that shows how dark it really is:
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