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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/08/13 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Evening all am on my hols at the moment and finding time to make a bit of progress with the T9. The chassis is finished, having had all manner of detailing bits, overlays and bits of pipe attached. This took some time to sort out because I wanted to have the wheels removable. I made up a couple of bits to support the rear and front springs which are curiously a mixture of coil and leaf springs. The brake control rods have been fixed with 16BA screws so the whole thing can be disassembled for painting and subsequent maintenance. I've now turned my attention to the footplate. The kit has an ingenious fold up jig whereby you make the whole thing into a tube effectively before attaching various parts. Have just attached the coupling rod splashers which were interesting. The first one went on fine at which point I took a photo, feeling very pleased with myself. Sods law. The second took two attempts to get right but is now fixed (though no photo). Cab sides and wheel splashers will be next, but that's for another day.
  2. 2 points
    Just to prove that my recent blog entry was not just waffle & hot air concerning the light railway project, behold a station building and a coach. The building is slightly modified Hornby with a new corrugated iron, glazing and a metal chimney for the office stove. Plus a suitably tired looking looking paint job. The coach if one may so dignify the relic that you see before you is a 5 and 9 kit obtained from a friend of mine and reworked a little with a new roof and compensation. There are a few passengers inside but the poor souls probably don't realise that the coach has no brakes of its own, but also if they don't reach thier destination before sunset they'll be sitting in the dark! More soon-ish!
  3. 1 point
    SWMBO has taken the kids and the MIL to the seaside for a few days, so while the house is my own, it's kinda turned into a workshop The long put off task of getting the track ballasted has took a huge leap forward with the end board having all the track ballast done. I've also fixed down the tracks for the camping coach to sit on. The steps for the camping coach have been offered up and found to be good - note I'm using the OTHER coach so as not to damage the finish on the actual camping coach whilst all the glue and stuff is flying around So, jobs for tomorrow - ballast the remaining track on the middle board and hopefully get the cinders down on both I also need to track down some clear matt varnish to waterproof all the walling that I've made ready. So to tomorrow ....... p.s. not sure the new repurposed kitchen will go down too well
  4. 1 point
    The old Jindenco/Falcon Brassworks kits will be well-known to old hands, but there has been some interest shown on the forums in their recent re-introduction under new owners so it is perhaps worthwhile to present a review of one of the 'new' kits. I recently ordered a couple of these kits, an AA6 PW brake van and a CC3 Signal Dept. tool van and both arrived within six weeks. I assume that if you are the first to order a particular kit then you'll have to wait a similar period, but they may be producing a small number of each kit when it is first ordered so subsequent orders might be delivered more quickly. Apart from a freshly produced etch, the kit contains various pieces of straight wire and white metal castings. For some reason, perhaps problems with the packing list, no buffers were supplied, though the AA6 kit included a suitable set of MJT buffers. The instructions, always one of the least satisfactory parts of these kits, have been retyped using a computer. They are still just a copy of the originals but, hopefully, given time and feedback from builders they can be improved. Time, I think, for a photo. I forgot to take one of the complete etch (there's one of the AA6 here), so let's start with the body: The instructions, like many other Jidenco originals, tell you to fold this up with the etched detail to the outside. That may be correct for all those vans with external planked detail but for this iron bodied van it is quite wrong. Here, the fold lines should be on the inside, but first the rivet detail along the bottom of the sides and ends needs to pressed out. Once the body has been folded into a box, the next problem becomes apparent. Like Iron Minks, the iron bodied vans in the CC group all have curved corners, though the kit folds to a simple right angle. The solution is to fill the inside corner with a suitable piece of brass -- I used some 1.6mm square section -- and file the corner to shape: The next item in the instructions is also wrong. It says that both side and end windows should be attached to the outside of the body. Whilst the prototype had external window frames on the sides, the end windows were opening and are more correctly represented by soldering their frames to the inside of the body. The required effect is seen here, together with the doors that have been added to the sides: Perhaps the most difficult part of many of these kits is folding the solebars. I use some home-made bending bars in which one plate has been milled to suit such tasks. Perhaps one of those Hold and Fold devices would also do the trick but, otherwise it will be tricky without some suitably sized pieces of metal: The axle guards and brake detail supplied in the kit may also cause problems. Both etched pieces are identical, so one has to be folded in the reverse direction to the other. Otherwise, the rather minimal brake detail will not match up correctly: Whilst it should be possible to construct a rigid chassis using these parts, I replaced everything between and below the solebars with readily available and better alternatives. I used Bill Bedford sprung axleguards. The outer ones were carefully aligned and soldered in position, then the solebars and buffer beams added. The central axleguards were then aligned relative to the outer pair and soldered to the back of the solebars. Once the solebars were in place, the body strapping was added, wrapping it down over the outside of the solebars. The roof was supplied as a piece of pre-rolled brass. That would have been helpful if it were the right size and correctly curved. Unfortunately, it was both a couple of mm oversize in both directions and insufficiently curved. It's a bit more difficult to trim the sheet to size once curved and it needed further rolling to match the ends before fitting the strapping. I also cut out the areas underneath the roof lights so they wouldn't show after glazing. These vans had iron roofs with rivetted strapping over the panel joints. Whilst there were a few odd pieces of strapping left over on the etch, there was not enough for this job, so I used some rivet strip from a Mainly Trains wagon detailing etch. The roof lights and oil lamp tops were added, and I also made up a little stove unit with its flue emerging from the roof. The position of the oil lamps shown on the drawing in the instructions is, I think, wrong. The drawing is copied from the Swindon original but, by comparing the Swindon drawings for this family of vans, I came to the conclusion that the roof details shown for CC3 are simply copied from the, already suspect, CC1 drawing. The positions of lamps and strapping is more likely to be correct on the CC4 and CC7 drawings. The oil lamp tops are very nice castings, but those for the springs and axleboxes are less suitable. They are the correct types, but are ones that include the axleguard or W-iron so are not really suitable for the kit as intended to be built or, as here, with added axleguards. MJT do a suitable 4'6" spring and box casting with long J-hangers (part no 2248) for the central axle, but I don't think they do a suitable one for the outer axles. To get round this I cut and filed the supplied castings to remove the axleguards and allow them to fit. As mentioned earlier, no buffers were included so I added a set of MJT sprung ones. The DCII brakes were made up from parts from one of Bill Bedford's DCIII etches. Finally, to the paint shop. I've long been a little suspicious of the extent to which black was used for departmental vehicles at this time. Many photos (although I know of none of CC3) certainly show a darker colour, but many of these are quite heavily under-exposed. For this reason, I decided to paint it using Precision GWR wagon grey. However, I had forgotten how dark the paint in my two tins of this were. When first sprayed it looks like a very dark version of the usual grey but, when dry, it is almost black. So, it looks like I'm going to have to go with the black, or at least very dark grey, livery. Lettering was entertaining, all done with HMRS methfix. Apart from having far too few pre-1904 'G.W.R', the sheet includes 'Reading' in both italic and roman and 'Signal Dept' in roman. Unfortunately the latter is far too big for one of these vans and the style is probably incorrect for pre-1904. In the end, I used italic 'Reading' as supplied, 'Dept' from an italic 'Engineering Dept', and 'Signal' was made up from parts of 'Slough' and various other place names. Overall, then, I enjoyed building the kit and produced, I think, a satisfactory result. The instructions could be significantly improved/corrected, and It does need extra work beyond just soldering the etched parts together so is probably not one for an absolute beginner. Nevertheless, it was much less difficult than one or two other Jidenco/Falcon kits I've tackled in the past. Nick EDIT: Added photo, taken as per centre metering, not over-exposed, to give a better idea of the colour. Black, slightly glossy unweathered wagon on left and Railmatch GWR grey on right: EDIT: to add a couple of views of the sliding central axle arre=angement:
  5. 1 point
    The OO Garden Shed By John Geeee I like the Metcalfe card buildings because they are easy to build and you can fill a space very quickly but sometimes I do not think they look detailed and textured enough for areas that are easily viewable. So as time goes on there are certain buildings that I want to replace with better quality options. The first was the Goods Shed. It's at the front of my layout so very visible. Here is how I built the Ratio Goods Shed. Personally I think this is my best paint job so far. I think I got the stone work just right. Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the painting stages other than the ones here. My method was again start with a base coat of yellow ochre on the stone work. Then apply washes of a dilute burnt umber until the stone work is looking a darker colour. This needs patience and takes several days to complete allow each wash to dry before repeating. A apply the wash to a horizontal surface which seems to allow the brown umber to build up on certain "bricks" to give that uneven appearance. When I have applied 5-6 washes and I am happy with the darkness I apply a cream wash to highlight the morter lines. I make the cream wash less diluted than the umber wash which seems to give a lighter weathered effect on top of the umber washes. When I brush on the cream wash I wipe it off again lightly with a damped paper kitchen towel to take the majority of it off the stone surface. Here is the inside platform painted as described above: I try and paint as many parts as I can while they are still on the sprues: The Goods Shed walls all painted and ready for the doors and canopies to be added. I like the random colour to the bricks but this has not been achieved by delibrately picking out certain stones. The effect is just the way the umber washes settle more on certain stones: Now with the final details added: Now the pictures of the shed on the layout: These final pictures show a yard crane added to uload wagons. I will make a better platform for this when I get time: Next Up - Down Our Street.
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