Leaderboard

Hello again! This WEP kit was the second brass kit I attempted to build, my first WEP kit and third overall. I have to say that I found this WEP kit excellent, its instructions were comprehensive (although I made a few glaring mistakes!) and the kit went together very well although I have to say that at times it was a bit complicated - which tested my patience more than once, this was purely down to the fact that I was new to brass kit building and hadn't yet figured out the best ways of making things. I will try and add the photos of the wagon as it progresses and I hope that you will be able to follow the text and the images ok. The wagon chassis and body were two separate items that were built; that is the body consisted of the floor (brass but simulated wooden planks), the sole bars and the end stocks (forgive me if I have terminology wrong). The chassis consisted of the 'under' frame so to speak with the wheel w hangers, the brake v hangers and all the other additional items which made up the comprehensive brake linkage system; also the axle compensation unit. The first image shows the wagon floor, headstock and sole bar angled on one of my wooden blocks. The first thing to note is, if you look VERY closely at picture 2, you will see the thinnest of solder seams on the edge of the wagon floor boards. The floor was made of two separate pieces, the 'top upper floorboard piece' and an 'underneath floor'. The wooden boards should and were made to match and I would hope that it would be almost impossible to see apart from the picture being much bigger than life size. I pre soldered the edges of both pieces and also soldered part of the middle. The two pieces were matched together and then held with wooden clothes pegs while I heated the whole with a small gas torch, they then sweated together uniformly and all I had to do was render the wagon floor edge with a small smooth file. As you can see the lower most frame on which the gas tanks sits is already attached. At this point I had no idea that I would ever be writing about building the kit hence the missing steps of photos... At this point I was ready to fit the small hand rails, made of brass wire, to the lower tank frame. Mass production, albeit in a small quantity(!), works well in doing these kind of items. I made all the brass wire hand rails at the same time using a small jig so that they were all exactly the same width, the 'depth' wasn't so crucial because they were fitting in to small holes on the tank frame. Once I was ready to secure them in place I used two pieces of thicker wire to space them out from the frame so that each one was exactly the same distance out and also that they were all parallel with the frame as you can maybe see in the third picture (which is out of sequence but shows all hand rails in situ). Also, to note, are the small vertical pins at the end of the lower tank frames, these are the locators for the middle and upper tank frame pieces, the end of which fold at 90deg with a small hole. Also in the middle of the upper frame is, what I can only call a lifting eye(?). Lastly, rivets have been punched with my rivet tool according to the diagram on the plans. One of the most vexing and time consuming part of making this kit was the fabrication of the middle and upper tank frames. You can see the lower, middle and upper completed and fitted as one unit in photo 3 (and to say that there are three complete units in total, the two outside ones and the center). Both the middle and upper tank frames were constructed using two separate pieces... I am doing my best to describe this so forgive me; if you imagine the middle and upper frames being made each of two 90deg 'L' folded pieces of brass so that one part will be a side and then either the upper or lower horizontal face and the other matching part the opposite, ie side then lower or upper. It was essential here to make sure that the pieces were accurately folded at 90degrees and also that, once folded, the pieces mated perfectly together. The most awkward aspect of the making of each was actually soldering them together... I first fluxed then tinned each edge that was to be soldered, then using a piece of wood made to the exact inner size of the finished part, I spaced the two together, holding them firmly this time with metal folding clips. Only once I was perfectly happy that the two parts were aligned and all the pre tinned edges were touching did I heat the parts until they soldered together, the pre tinning joining them together without the need to apply a solder (gas torch used). After the three upper and middle parts were complete I mated them together to form the two side and center frames. You can see a small drilled hole in the uppermost part, this is a frame spacing strengthening piece, in a later picture it will be more evident. Photo 4 shows the whole in a better perspective. You can see the solder on the inside of the middle and upper parts and also the wire spacer holes at the top. Photo 5 shows the gas tanks fitted and the gas valves and also tank retainers in place. Both brass wire strengtheners are now fitted. Photo 6 jumps onto the start of the construction of the underframe, brake rigging etc. The WEP kit was enjoyable to make and seemed quite comprehensive in detail, safety loops for brake gear an example. Photo 7 shows the start of insertion of components, in this case the vacuum cylinder and my most glaring of mistakes... Photo 8 now shows the compensation unit, fitted only at one end from memory but what I do remember is that, the unit being wholly of brass material, had a very sound and heavy footprint, the compensation unit worked extremely well. Photo 9 both axles now fitted and most of the brake gear done. Photo 10 more detail Photo 11 the finished wagon ready to return to the owner. The reason a lot of detail is missing is twofold... I didn't actually have some of the items but primarily here the reason was my being uneasy with tackling such fiddly detail as drilling and threading fine wire for the gas tank pipework and also the secure of white metal castings to the wagon chassis. This was my third wagon built! The owner completed the wagon and has painted and lettered it I believe. Stu

Just a quick update on the T9. The boiler, smoke box and firebox have all been rolled up as per the instructions. I haven't done this bit before so a lot of care was taken and I took my time. The end results are shown in the photos and I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. The T9 will have to wait for a while before I make any further progress as I really need to concentrate on the new layout Clevedon over the coming months and its first show in January.

Some time ago I was asked to provide more details of the current layout. Where to start? I would start with the Branch Terminus. The Branch Terminus – Long Shot 2013 First a little bit of history. Back in the 1960s I didn’t have that much space for a model railway and I had plans and even made the base boards for, a short ‘L’ shaped layout. It would be modelled on one of CJ Freezers suggestions. In this article from August 1961 CJ Freezer took the track diagram from Ashburton (ex GWR) and provided an alternative layout which I have reproduced below. Layout Design based on track diagram from Ashburton (ex GWR) courtesy of CJ Freezer I think this layout is one of the ‘milestones’ in railway modelling and I have thought about it a lot and have extended it and incorporated it into my last two layouts. Branch Terminus – the Park View Layout 1990s The original Ashburton layout has only one platform face and no passing loop. When ‘playing’ trains I always thought this a disadvantage. In the Park View layout above I added a separate passing loop on the station approach so that a train leaving the station could pass another train entering the station prior to the single line section. The extra loop also provides valuable storage space for a whole extra train. The Branch Terminus – Layout 2013 The current Branch Terminus layout above is a further development of the same design. I had a little more space available so there are additional goods sidings. There is a short siding labelled ‘locos’. This was to be a small 9 inch turntable but in the event there just wasn’t room – a pity. Coal drops – Hornby Skaledale Hornby’s coal drops are based on Goathland, on the North York Moors line. I cannot imagine that the North Eastern Railway was the only company to see the benefits of dropping the coal out of the wagons without the need for men and shovels! The grey walling is all Metcalfe, in this case from their single track viaduct kits. The road surfacing is my usual recipe, fine sand and wallpaper paste. Bachmann 22xx on Mainline ‘B’ Set, with Hornby ex GWR railcar (with Lima body). A close up of the station with a Bachmann 22xx heading a couple of elderly Mainline type ‘B’ set coaches. The 22xx was a bargain off eBay and has been converted from GWR livery to early BR (WR) livery using transfers and etched plates. The ‘B’ set has been close coupled using Bachmann ‘mini type’ couplings as detailed on one of my earlier Posts. The Hornby ex GWR railcar has a Lima body shell with a repainted roof. I still have the original Hornby Crimson and Cream body shell but I just don’t think the colours are correct. The retaining wall in the foreground is from the Townscene Range. I think that this is probably long discontinued but kits are still occasionally available on eBay. The Station Approach – Code 100 Peco Streamline I have included this picture as it highlights one of the reasons why the current layout uses Peco Code 100 track. These points were lifted and reused from the older Park View layout. However wheel standards change and now twenty years on I have had to replace some of the original 1980s points with more up to date versions with smaller gaps at the ‘frogs’. Perhaps I could have changed to Code 75 after all. The ballast is blue poppy seeds sometimes known as Maws seed, held in place with wallpaper paste. There is still a lot to do – so that’s good to know.

It's finished! All detailing added and I've even risked my own hands with an airbrush to give it a basic weathering ahead of the Peterborough BRM show Here's a few snaps Pretty pleased, just got to clean the wheels and sort out the chuff frequency on the sound chip. Note cut down Bachmann coupling to allow for the vac pipe on the front buffer beam. The original 93000 will be prepared for sale at the show (or after). I will be including a copy of the Hornby mag that it appeared in and a copy of the original weight drawing along with the loco, so if anyone fancies a complete one off for their BR Standards collection, come and see me on Summat Colliery at the show. Offers around £200.

One project which has sat in the to do pile for a long time has been my castle The intention is to take what was Tintagnal Castle and renumber to 4085 Berkeley Castle which will be partnered with the Hawksworth tender from this yeas GW castle release. The tender from Tintagnal will then be used with the later loco from Wellington to produce Nunny Castle. Both locos have been picked for the names rather than the use (so I hope they will fit prototypically with a future layout with red coded track.) Berkeley Castle given that the real castle is in the next village over (complete with 4085's name plates on the wall), while Nunny Castle is where I proposed. Renaming was a fairly straight forward process, cutting the green splasher off the plate and only fitting the name part (wish they would do just the name!) the buffer beam numbers came off easily and will be replaced with HMRS transfers (although I need to get a new pack after failing to find any at Scaleforum.) Still need to strip the Great Western logo off the tender and re brand with the post war G crest W Will still be a while until I get it converted, need to get a couple of the current in progress locos finished first (which means cracking the outside cylinder problem...) I also picked up the crankpin washers for 3863, although after fitting and assembling the wheels I have found more material needs to be removed from the crank pins to clear the slide bars (I wish someone would make a lower profile crankpin nut) I was having bit of a clumsy evening so decided to stop at that point! I will have another go soon. Scaleforum also resulted in a bunch of other useful bits Including another coopercraft GW Van, Ian Kirk GW 4 plank and ballast open, Parkside GW van and Gunpowder Van, Ultrascales for a tender and a 14xx, along with some books (the Ian Rice book on chassis should prove useful with the current problems!)

Here we are again. The instructions in the kit are exploded diagrams of an indifferent quality.They show the brakes fitted to the outer frames as on the prototype. But this will make getting the wheeled chassis almost impossible to get in and out. So I decide to fit to the inner ones. First problem was making out the hangers especially as the front one is off the frames, this then leads to a bit of butchery to the outer frame set up. Then there is the opperating shaft and vac cylinders etc, which need to be fitted to the outer frames, which leads on to there needs to be a detachable link between the brakes and the operating linkage. Well there is a cast lever missing from the casting, that fits on the operating shaft, so with having to make a new pair this is where the split will be. As you see here I have added tubes for the brake hangers, this is as the brakes have a cast on spiggot, which will make them easily removeable, you will see when I actually get that far. You can also see the hacked abouy front spacer to allow room for the front brakes. To check the fit as I go it looks like I have to almost build the outer frames and footplate as such along with the running chassis, this is partly because of the brakes, but also the mounting points. There is a guard aswell that fits to the outer frame, but is located in relation to the front step, which rely on the footplate. I am sure other bits will also need to both parts built. Some alignment issues. I also think I need to assemble the basic cab and bonnet units to the relationship right between the outer frames, footplate and the cab and bonnet. This is as it is there are no slots or tabs for alignment. Not a problem just a bit more like scratch building. Prior to assembling the footplate to the frames I tried some parts to get an idea of fit etc. The cab and footplate boxes as you can see are just folded. Once the frames and plate where joined I rechecked. There are some adjustments but not as much as I first thought. All I wanted was to fit the brakes to the chassis, paint it black and the get on with the body.

I've not been active on RMweb for a while due to a mixture of health and other matters taking precedence. Owing to financial situations of both myself and Natalie, layout progress or building sadly hasn't occured. But with enough plans in our heads collectively we will manage something eventually. Out of all the plans we do have, we are likely to hopefully sometime in the next few months or so start on the simplest of the ideas. That being a small layout set around Woolwich Dockyard on the North Kent Lines in South East London. The idea being to set it around the time of the introduction of the Networkers replacing the EPBs. It being a simple stretch of track with not much else other than a siding off to the docks it will be much easier to actually get a start on. It's also helpful that I have a Hornby Networker and a set of body shells as well. With some work a 4EPB and a 465 should provide a motive power starting point. I'd also like to back date it at some point to get earlier stock and steam too. But simple start for now hopefully. Before any of that can happen though I need to finish the current moving house I'm in the process of doing. Hopefully the new flat will help my health (being a ground floor flat) and allow a start to be made perhaps. Hopefully I'll be about at the next Warley show and see how things pan out. kely

Good evening all, Just thought I would update on the progress of my first and main structure for this mini layout. I have now added the sides to the top section and the base of the feeder floor, which was a bit of a nightmare to fit as I had to reposition the front two legs which were originally glued in place slightly too far forward. Here are a couple of progress shots with my first strip of bullhead track now completed. A ground level view. A view of the Eastern face. I have also had a "rumidge" through the box of bits and made some interesting and relevant discoveries for this layout. Some mineral wagons which I had built from kits, probably 20 odd years ago and had started some rust effect weathering using the good old maskol technique! Also discovered was a Silver Fox Baby Deltic kit, unmade and crying out to built! I must have purchased this all those years ago when I had my mini ECML layout in my bedroom!! I must also mention that I popped long to my 2mm area group on Saturday and met some of the guys there. It was great meeting them and I had a most enjoyable few hours working on the A4 and having some great discussions about modelling. I also had the driving wheels on the A4 turned down to 2FS standards while I was there by one of the members (thanks again for this if you are reading this blog) with just the pony trucks and tender wheels left to do. I have to say that dismantling the Dapol A4 is an absolute nightmare and I was glad I had some experts on hand to help me through this painful experience!!! Just need to work out now how to put it all back together!! :scratchhead: :scratchhead: I plan to spend a couple of evenings this week progressing the tower so hopefully it will have its full height by the weekend and a further update on progress. Best regards, Jeremy

Hello, This was the second kit I built, my first plastic one; a Parkside Dundas LMS ventilated van. I was pleased with the kit as it went together well with only very minor fettling of parts, from memory the axle boxes slide up and down for some compensation. The paint and transfers have been done by the owner as, then, I had not any experience of painting or lettering models. I had a very nice arrangement with my friend who I built these kits for; I built the kits and got a OO gauge engine in return. Thankfully my experience in building, brass and plastic kits has now grown some and I have also taken to painting and lettering myself, more of which you will see later once I post 'my' stock 8)

A brief update, which I will add to in the week when I get chance, Victoria Bridge is coming on in leaps and bounds ready for the Cradley Heath show on the 19th October.. a quick peek through the dark door of my shed reveals a little slice of summer, neatly picture framed! Next week, some technical trouble shooting and track cleaning, removing scenic bits from where they hadnt ought to be!

As I mentioned in my first entry in this blog, my layout started many years ago as a Hornby Dublo layout for my young son. The plan was taken directly from the Hornby Dublo Handbook of 2-Rail Track Formations (1st edition), as shown below, drawn using SCARM software Original Track Plan (as built in 1979) This track plan formed the basis for a small, simple layout, to which I added a narrow gauge section (009) at a higher level, for additional interest. The upper level hides the 'round and round' nature of the main line, while leaving the station, at the front, and goods yard visible, for scenic modelling. There was never anything very prototypical about the layout and I treated it mainly as a framework for developing scenery and 'vignettes' for photography. When I returned to this railway, a couple of years ago, I decided to use it for the Victorian designs, which I was interested in constructing. One major limitation in operating the track was the lack of a passing loop on the main circuit, so I decided one could be provided by replacing one of the points on the cross-over loop with a three-way point. Again, by using the SCARM software, I found that I could incorporate a Peco SL-E99 'electrofrog' point, without making major changes to the overall layout. Revised Layout Plan (including 009 section) I marked the positions for the new track on the baseboard, assisted by use of the Peco templates, as shown by the following photo of the 'work in progress'. Marked-up Baseboard and Templates The new point required two point motors and switches, to control the live-frog polarity. For these functions, I used SEEP motors, with integral switches. For ease of installation, I mounted the motors onto small rectangles of printed circuit board, together with block connectors. This meant that all the soldering could be done on the bench, with the connector blocks used subsequently, to hook up to the wiring under the baseboard. SEEP Point Motor Module Since I already had a 'hand-held' controller, I decided to adopt a similar principle for operation of the point switches. I mounted the six point switches needed on my layout in a small plastic box, from Maplin, and connected this to the layout via a multi-way lead, taken from a parallel-port printer cable. Remote Controller for Points The connections from the point motors were all brought to a common board, carrying three sockets to connect controllers for points, mainline, and narrow gauge, respectively. Again, I designed the board so that most of the wiring could be done on the bench, with just the final hook-ups having to be done under the baseboard. All the wiring is colour-coded and labelled to assist the final assembly. Two views of the Control Panel Points Wiring Plan Once all this was in place, I had the basis of a layout to display my Victorian stock Mike

The station is nearly complete now having at last had its stairway handrails fitted . Just waiting suitable Scotrail font station name boards.

Hello, Welcome to my blog in which I hope to share my previous, current and future model building projects with you. I am not intent on offending anyone or expressing in anyway 'this is how it should be done', I just hope that my building experiences and the products thereof might inspire others to have a go. I have a busy life thankfully but yet I still manage to have time to 'escape' into railway mode, which is very relaxing when it is going well... The subject picture here is my very first attempt at model railway kit building and indeed 'o' gauge building; and if I can add one more, brass kit building. The subject being a four wheel Taff Valley Railway Guards van. I offered to build a kit for a good friend of mine and this is what was proffered. The kit was very enjoyable to build and built my own confidence up no end with the result. Particularly enjoyable was the curved tumble home on the coach side, especially the guards ducket. In building this coach I quickly learned the use of small square wooden blocks, which I still have and still use, for making and fixing brass pieces too to solder together. I must add that wooden clothes pegs were and are a God send 8) Anyway, painting awaits my current project - an O gauge GWR siphon (six wheel). Cheers! Stu

The replacement etches arrived from Mr. Chivers very promptly and a couple of days later I set about a new chassis for the second Hunslet. I will point out for any new readers that the need for a replacement chassis is entirely down to me and my rather over ambitious attempt to compensate the first one. I have not given up completely on this but is going to be put aside in the interests of meeting my now less than a year deadline. I think the recent experience has helped and did various things like putting in longer crank pins on the front axle and making sure these were countersunk first straight away. Result is a really, really quiet and smooth chassis first time with no opening out of the coupling rods or any other such tricks. Here it is in my slightly makeshift but very effective gig. And in quite a brave move sprayed even before testing with the wheels but with some bits where future soldering is required masked off; So here we have a super running chassis on the rolling road. I sat there just watching it completely mesmerised for ages! Next jobs are fitting pickups and then valve gear - not sure which I am least looking forward to! Once these two quite unpleasant tasks have been completed I anticipate pretty speedy progress towards completing half of my planed steam roster, then it's sorting out a couple of Baldwins.

Before I can finish the building of Fanshawe Ltd. I must decide what wall based street furniture I want to use. I spend a lot of time behind my PC searching for street names for Northall Dock. For Greater London there are several options. See the picture below. On Flickr there is a London Street Name Pool with a lot of pictures. I could skip all those modern type street name signs. I also tried to find names that refer to the scene of Northall Dock. For Northall Dock I will use the blue enamel signs. Not all street name signs are from Greater London, but they are blue enamel. After finding the picture I had to do some photo shopping to cut out the street names and resize them. I Used the brick height as a guide that means that the signs are 2 or 4 mm high in 4 mm. I chose for Northall Dock the following names and signs: Anchor Street will be used for the road along the warehouses. Canal Street for the alley between the buildings of Farnshaw Ltd and Roope & Voss. Waterford Road for the street along the cottage. The hydrant sign on the building of Roope & Voss. The “Bill stickers” sign in the alley. Next time again some modeling progress. Regards, Job PS. Today I had some time to model. And because I'm working on the premises of Fanshawe Ltd. I decided to put the name sign and the Bill Posters side on the side wall. I also created with the help of Publisher the Bill Posters is innocent "graffito" on the wall. Maybe not all perfect on the picture it will do in the diorama as later pictures will show. Hope you like my Post Scrip-tum. Job

I recently acquired one of Hornby’s 52xx tank engines to add to my fleet of ex GWR heavy good engines. Hornby 52xx Going Backwards It is a good looking engine with some very fine detail. It runs forwards and backwards very smoothly albeit at a prototypical slow speed. I had to take my glasses off to study the handrails round the bunker – and yes they are individual wires! I like the full set of brackets on the rear of the bunker visible when using the engine in reverse. However the footplate on my model is not completely straight – possibly like the prototype! The footplate appears to be locked to the bunker and side tanks by around eight plastic lugs – I can see me investigating further – but it all looks very delicate! Hornby 52xx Going Forwards I do sometimes buy things on impulse. I had been impressed by the preproduction pictures of the model. However I did not keep up with more recent correspondence and it came as a surprise to me to find that the smokebox handles were moulded with the door, and that the buffers were not sprung. For comparison I have pictured my new Hornby 52xx alongside some of my other ex GWR engines. Bachmann 22xx (ROD) versus Hornby 52xx The Bachmann 22xx model dates back to Mainline times and I think I am correct when I say that even the latest DC ready variants still have the smokebox handles moulded integrally with the door. The detail on the 22xx is robust and the door handles appear to me to be over heavy. Bachmann 43xx (Split chassis model) versus Hornby 52xx One of my all time favourite engines is the 43xx Class. Again the Bachmann model is getting to be dated. The lamp irons are robust but the door handles are quite realistic, the top one being a separate moulding to the bottom one, which is still integral with the door. Bachmann St Edmund’s Hall versus Hornby 52xx The Bachmann model of St Edmund’s Hall is one of the newer models and continues to use a separate moulding for the top handle. The lamp irons might be regarded as over heavy? Hornby Derwent Grange versus Hornby 52xx The Hornby Derwent Grange model is getting to be a little dated but its introduction seemed to me to mark the start of some very good super detailed models. The smoke box handles were a completely separate moulding which did on occasions ‘go walkabouts’. I did even wonder if the handles were too thin! Hornby 28xx versus Hornby 52xx My personal view is that the Hornby 28xx model marks a high spot in both detail and performance. I think the smoke box handles and the lamp irons are all about perfect. Dapol County (with added detail) versus Hornby 52xx Readers of this Blog will remember that I recently posted an item on fitting wire smokebox handles to the old Dapol County. (I also fitted lamp irons, sprung buffers, cab glazing and etched plates.) In the view above I think the improved Dapol model compares very well with the latest Hornby offering. Dapol County with added detail. I have been most impressed with the Hornby 28xx model and I must admit to feeling slightly cheated with the 52xx. Hornby in my opinion have taken a step backwards with their detailing. We know that our chocolate bars and our biscuits are all getting smaller as the prices go up, so perhaps we should not be surprised that Hornby have started to back track on expensive detail. It is quite fun and cost effective to add detail to the old Airfix, Mainline and early Dapol models – like my Dapol County. However I am not so happy at the idea of purchasing sprung buffers and spending time on adding proper smokebox handles to a model costing around £100.

P4 Deltic Conversion, Part 20… final stages and completion Well, I didn’t really think that I’d get here, but thanks to the support I’ve received from a number of RMWebbers (listed) among others, I’ve finally finished my Nimbus. OK, so he’s going to have to come apart again once I get my rolling road so that the gears can get a good seeing to with plenty of lubrication... I think the gears are all a bit gungy and dried out... so running is a little rough inside, but the pickups are ok... and it all works! I’d like to just formally sincerely thank the following, in no particular order: Jamie, Jessie1692-James, James Hilton, 43179 Jon S, BCNPete M, Will, Peter, Sean, Simon, John, Pugsley, Ravenser, Matthew, EW Mike, Briz1234 ("The" Brian Hanson), and Andi –Cairnsroadworks... to name but a few. Thanks also must go to Rob Maynard and Martin Walker for allowing me to get some close access to RSG and Gordon. Right, so here’s the final stages... weathering. The body weathering was undertaken with the usual, and much talked about technique of applying a mix of sleeper grime and frame dirt with an airbrush to the body lower sides, and then removing this with a white spirit soaked cotton bud moved in vertical downward strokes, continuing to slowly build up the layers and then finished with a gentle dusting of the same colour, with a little “brake dust” mixed in to lighten the colour. The buffers were given a coating of dirty black mixed with silver representing a dirty grease colour, swirled to represent how the grease would accumulate. Over this a light application of black was applied, and this was then subject to “contact” with a blunt object (I this case the top of a propelling pencil cap) to twist and remove the black “grime” to reveal the contacted grease underneath… which seemed to work A little “thin” black was bled into the crevices formed at the sandbox covers’ edges… as well as within the cantrail grills (originals), and the nose intakes and engine intakes received a light application also… although their “louvered” construction did not necessarily need this, I was just adding a representation of the collected grime. The chassis and bogies received a light dusting of the sleeper grime and frame dirt with an airbrush and these were also streaked with the white spirit soaked cotton buds. The bogies were treated separately to gentle application of weathering powders (Tamiya), applying the light rust colours into the bogie nooks and crannies, lightly dusting with a light brushing … and then blending a bit more with a light dusting of a thinners moistened brush to blend the powders in. I managed to forget to grab any photos of these stages… but suffice to say, that these, add to the general texture of the underside frames to compliment the (still separate) body. A light dusting of roof dirt was applied along the centre sections of the roof starting from the engine exhaust ports; on the cab roofs, this was wiped away using the same downward strokes with the soaked cotton bud as before, leaving the central “dirty” area along the centre line – where the cleaners wouldn’t normally reach. This was also over sprayed onto the bonnet tops – where the exhaust would naturally drift to. Dirty black was added to the exhaust ports, with light drifting away from each in both directions. Light spraying of dirty black followed by Tamiya black weathering powders and some dry brushing was used to represent the oil staining running down the bodyside from each exhaust port. Prior to body mating, and final checks, the cabs were checked and fettled, SWD DCC Sound chip added, and wiring soldered to the already installed 8ohm bass reflex speaker in the fuel tanks… please excuse the tape used to secure te wiring... I’ve tidied that up since (honest). Upon reassembly, there were some mating issues and I couldn’t get the body to sit down at all… finally I found the culprit... in this trapped wire that would sit within the recess for the body screws. Once tidied, the body was mated to the chassis. The subsequently apparent slight discrepancy in colour between the chassis and body was dealt with a subtle application of the aforementioned lighter colour (brake dust, sleeper grime frame dirt mix) to both the chassis, bogies and lower edges of the body… leaving a light dusting along the lower edges, including the tumblehome, and fuel tanks and bogies… Prior to undertaking this “spraying”, in order to protect the wheels, and electric pickup surfaces, a mask was made to slot into the bogies, covering the wheels… template shown here… masks shown here fitted… and removed afterwards. Finally, the bogies were treated to a light infilling with thinned black paint to the bogie spring recesses, around the brake callipers and to represent oil stains on the axle cover bolts and brake cylinders. On the body, light application of the same thin black was applied running down from the nose intake grills per prototypical photographs… referred to in all cases. The overall result is, in my opinion, quite pleasing… and I think that it’s been worth the effort. I hope that some of you agree… and will consider giving it a go yourself. As a novice, I’ve achieved this, and learnt a lot in the process… just imagine what someone with some skill could achieve. So, there we are... and end to this project. Thanks for reading Jon