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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/13 in all areas

  1. It's been a while due to reducing this sprawl to something that was presentable. There was a concession to keep one desk for now (by the window) and so I have this week finally manage to squeeze a few useful hours furthering the odd project not currently mothballed. The horse boxes had a number of parts made or cut from the frets with the potential for loss when packed and I wanted to get them fitted. I had originally planned to finish these for next weekend and am now on a promise to myself to get them ready for mid-November. I've managed to get the buffer beams laminated and
    6 points
  2. Having completed the Oak (which took more hours than I care to think about), my son suggested that he probably could get a couple of off-cuts of cable from work (he works for an electro-mechanical company). What he provided was about 13" of some pretty hefty stuff : Each cable within the main cable consisted of 7 twists of 72 individual (0.38mm diameter) strands which were a little thicker than the wire I'd used for the Oak. I decided that by folding a single length double that it would make a good basis for a tree a little over 6 inches high, once folded double, the folded end w
    3 points
  3. I decided to finish the cottage in the front of the diorama first. Added the street name sign on the building and a drain pipe. For the roof I had a look at several slate and red clay tile options. In the front of the diorama I try to use whenever possible light colours. The grey slate tiles I found didn’t look right to me so I choose the red clay tiles from Wordsworth Models (free download). I also first searched for some background information and read it. I wanted to give the roof an old look. To create a convincing appearance a looked for a picture on the website of CG textures.
    2 points
  4. 3863 - Hornby conversion As previously mentioned at the weekend, I have been working on converting 3863 to P4. The initial conversion at the weekend showed that the crank pin nuts on the lead axel fouled the crosshead, and that the drive gear was loose on the axle. I initially attempted to cure the latter with an application of loctight, however it still persisted. I have now stripped it down and attempted to resolve through the application of additional knurling to the axle (attacking with a xuron cutter) which appears to have done the trick. The lead crank pin nuts were filed
    2 points
  5. Repainting of my stock after I made the decision to change my modelling period has begun. The first batch of rolling stock to be completed are five Parkside Dundas 7mm vans. The camera has failed to pick up the weathering particularly well. They are dirtier than they appear, the variations in the shades of grey give a hint of which ones are more heavily weathered.
    1 point
  6. Here we are again. The instructions in the kit are exploded diagrams of an indifferent quality.They show the brakes fitted to the outer frames as on the prototype. But this will make getting the wheeled chassis almost impossible to get in and out. So I decide to fit to the inner ones. First problem was making out the hangers especially as the front one is off the frames, this then leads to a bit of butchery to the outer frame set up. Then there is the opperating shaft and vac cylinders etc, which need to be fitted to the outer frames, which leads on to there needs to be a detachable link b
    1 point
  7. I have actually got on and cut some metal. As usual I started with the chassis. After a bit of cleaning up, it was time to see how we are going to do things. Firstly there are no holes for the brakes so these are marked and drilled. I also noticed that the bottom of the chassis is straight but the outside frames are shaped. I decided to loosly fold up the frames and see how it looked. I do not think it was a problem, but decided to shape the bottom of the inner chassis, just make sure it is almost invisible. I then cut out the to side beams for the compensation.
    1 point
  8. And now for something completly different. This is also a first for me, having never built a diesel. I have painted one or two but that is it. The instructions say it will build the 13000 series, but needs work to make the airbraked etc. For me thats not a problem as I have BR green paint but would have to get other colours in. It is a GE Models, Acorn kit, drawn by Jim Haris well the chassis has his name on it. The etch do not look to bad, I have found one fault while punching out the rivets, the half etched dots on the battery boxes have been etched the wrong side. Need to think about t
    1 point
  9. I've spent the last week or so adding all the detail components, this always takes longer than I expect, but I do find very satisfying. I used a photograph contained in Locomotives Illustrated of No 2467 as running circa 1905 as a reference. Socket type lamp irons from Laurie Griffin's range were fited and handrails were bent up from stainless steel wire. The dome, safety valve cover and chimney top were polished using abraisive wheels and cotton mops. (they are just balanced in position for the pictures at this stage!) I wasn't happy with the appearance of the tender rails, so I soldered some
    1 point
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