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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/13 in all areas

  1. It's been a while due to reducing this sprawl to something that was presentable. There was a concession to keep one desk for now (by the window) and so I have this week finally manage to squeeze a few useful hours furthering the odd project not currently mothballed. The horse boxes had a number of parts made or cut from the frets with the potential for loss when packed and I wanted to get them fitted. I had originally planned to finish these for next weekend and am now on a promise to myself to get them ready for mid-November. I've managed to get the buffer beams laminated and fitted along with the buffers, whitemetal castings, steps (why must NPCS have so many steps?), and brake rods. The chassis are now very nearly ready for paint with only couplings and vacuum pipes now required to complete. You may notice a small improvement in the close up photography? I treated myself to a 4x macro 'filter'. The man in the shop suggested this was the most cost effective way of photographing small items whilst retaining a decent depth of field that is not evident in the next picture. Much work remains to finish the detail on the body; not limited to the emergency cord detail and the handrails on the end with steps. Finally a reminder of how far I've already come...
    5 points
  2. I decided to finish the cottage in the front of the diorama first. Added the street name sign on the building and a drain pipe. For the roof I had a look at several slate and red clay tile options. In the front of the diorama I try to use whenever possible light colours. The grey slate tiles I found didn’t look right to me so I choose the red clay tiles from Wordsworth Models (free download). I also first searched for some background information and read it. I wanted to give the roof an old look. To create a convincing appearance a looked for a picture on the website of CG textures. See picture below. Then I did pick out a row that I wanted to model. I carefully tried to make the row cutting and adding individual tiles. Then I cut it on rows of two tiles high. And then I come to the compromise. If I wanted to create a roof as on the reference picture I had to create it with individual tiles. But I wanted to use the tiles texture from Wordsworth. Then you have to glue them somewhat over each other. In this way I laid all the tiles on the roof. On the reference picture you can see there is a line of cement below the top edge. I tried to model this with a Scalescenes concrete backyard floor tearing the texture carefully in an almost straight line. After I glued this in place and I added the top tiles individually, the roof was ready. And finally a pictures of the cottage details and a picture of the finished cottage on the layout. After making and seeing this picture I decided to create a simple background model behind the cottage. Regards, Job
    2 points
  3. 3863 - Hornby conversion As previously mentioned at the weekend, I have been working on converting 3863 to P4. The initial conversion at the weekend showed that the crank pin nuts on the lead axel fouled the crosshead, and that the drive gear was loose on the axle. I initially attempted to cure the latter with an application of loctight, however it still persisted. I have now stripped it down and attempted to resolve through the application of additional knurling to the axle (attacking with a xuron cutter) which appears to have done the trick. The lead crank pin nuts were filed down, and the crank pin sleeve reduced to match the rod. Upon refitting it still fouled the plastic mounting bracket that supports the crosshead, so some careful material removal was required (it still needs even more to get a reliable joint!) Upon reassembly I noticed that the 2nd axle on the right hand side has a the wrong sleeve fitted to the crank pin (which means it now fouls), so another dismantle and reassemble is needed before fitting that part. Hopefully this will be the final work to get the loco working... Moving onto 3215, I finally made it to the Yate modelshop on the way home from work today and picked up a pack of HMRS GW loco transfers. So finally 3215's tender has been branded up. Given the loco was delivered right at the point of nationalisation I have decided to put the early British Railways logo in GW typeface on one side of the tender (for something a little different) while sticking with the post war G W R on the other. While I was at it the buffer beam numbers were added. So now I just need to get some plates ordered...
    2 points
  4. Having completed the Oak (which took more hours than I care to think about), my son suggested that he probably could get a couple of off-cuts of cable from work (he works for an electro-mechanical company). What he provided was about 13" of some pretty hefty stuff : Each cable within the main cable consisted of 7 twists of 72 individual (0.38mm diameter) strands which were a little thicker than the wire I'd used for the Oak. I decided that by folding a single length double that it would make a good basis for a tree a little over 6 inches high, once folded double, the folded end was inserted into a length of 5mm diameter brass tube to allow a secure method of planting the eventual tree into the St Ruth landscape. For the second tree I tried to model a Scots Pine, but once soldered up I decided that the structure didn't capture the look that I was after, so I decided to make it into a "generic" tree for the wooded area. This time I began the tree at the base and worked upwards into the finer branches, again using solder to fix everything. Again individual strands were again looped back on themselves in places to provide far more than the original 144 strands that I started with. Once happy with the tree structure, P38 was again used to cover up the twists of the wire and provide a bit more beef to the base of the trunk. Again Woodland Scenics "Bushes" were secured to the painted structure to provide the foliage. The third tree I once again tried to produce something that could be identified as a Scots Pine, and with the benefit of experience, this time decided to use just a single length of cable (72 strands). Once again I began at the base and worked my way upwards. This time, instead of using Woodland Scenics "Bushes", I decided to use their dark green foliage net to better replicate the flatter, stratified foliage of a Scots Pine. I'll let others judge how successful my attempt to model a Scots Pine really is, although I am quite pleased with it. The fourth tree is for the wooded area, so no attempt this time to model any lower branches, as the branches would grow towards the light giving more canopy than lower branches. Again the trunk is formed from a doubled length of cable, for variety splitting the trunk. Again for this tree I utilised Woodlands Scenics foliage net, tearing pieces no more than 1 inch diameter after teasing out which were attached to the ends of the "twiggy" bits (this time I used Light Green to give a little variety to the wood). Annoyingly, the matt varnish that I coated the trunk with has dried somewhat glossy, so I need to re-cover this where it is visible. The blobs of white are PVA as I took the photo before this had dried. Ian
    2 points
  5. Here we are again. The instructions in the kit are exploded diagrams of an indifferent quality.They show the brakes fitted to the outer frames as on the prototype. But this will make getting the wheeled chassis almost impossible to get in and out. So I decide to fit to the inner ones. First problem was making out the hangers especially as the front one is off the frames, this then leads to a bit of butchery to the outer frame set up. Then there is the opperating shaft and vac cylinders etc, which need to be fitted to the outer frames, which leads on to there needs to be a detachable link between the brakes and the operating linkage. Well there is a cast lever missing from the casting, that fits on the operating shaft, so with having to make a new pair this is where the split will be. As you see here I have added tubes for the brake hangers, this is as the brakes have a cast on spiggot, which will make them easily removeable, you will see when I actually get that far. You can also see the hacked abouy front spacer to allow room for the front brakes. To check the fit as I go it looks like I have to almost build the outer frames and footplate as such along with the running chassis, this is partly because of the brakes, but also the mounting points. There is a guard aswell that fits to the outer frame, but is located in relation to the front step, which rely on the footplate. I am sure other bits will also need to both parts built. Some alignment issues. I also think I need to assemble the basic cab and bonnet units to the relationship right between the outer frames, footplate and the cab and bonnet. This is as it is there are no slots or tabs for alignment. Not a problem just a bit more like scratch building. Prior to assembling the footplate to the frames I tried some parts to get an idea of fit etc. The cab and footplate boxes as you can see are just folded. Once the frames and plate where joined I rechecked. There are some adjustments but not as much as I first thought. All I wanted was to fit the brakes to the chassis, paint it black and the get on with the body.
    1 point
  6. I have actually got on and cut some metal. As usual I started with the chassis. After a bit of cleaning up, it was time to see how we are going to do things. Firstly there are no holes for the brakes so these are marked and drilled. I also noticed that the bottom of the chassis is straight but the outside frames are shaped. I decided to loosly fold up the frames and see how it looked. I do not think it was a problem, but decided to shape the bottom of the inner chassis, just make sure it is almost invisible. I then cut out the to side beams for the compensation. The coupling rods are made up from 3 layers. These went together very nicely. Once cleaned up we are ready to fit the beams and bushes. Here is the inner chassis set up on my JPL jig. I find this works really well. As you can see, the middle and rear bushes are already soldered, and the front is ready to go. The pivot for the side beams will be done once the bushes are finished. I need to look at space for the motor and gear on the rear axle.
    1 point
  7. And now for something completly different. This is also a first for me, having never built a diesel. I have painted one or two but that is it. The instructions say it will build the 13000 series, but needs work to make the airbraked etc. For me thats not a problem as I have BR green paint but would have to get other colours in. It is a GE Models, Acorn kit, drawn by Jim Haris well the chassis has his name on it. The etch do not look to bad, I have found one fault while punching out the rivets, the half etched dots on the battery boxes have been etched the wrong side. Need to think about that one. I recently bought the wheels on that certain auction site, and was lucky as they are the newer ones with the square ended axles. The kit I have had for a few years, bought on a whim from that site too. All in all it has not cost me too much. I am hoping that the bonnet unit is not going to be as troublesome as the cladding on the west country class as they are a similar shape. Here is what I have to work with. I will see how good it is as we go along. I started by pressing out all the rivets. Then I looked into the compensation. I will do side beams on the leading and central axles, and hang the motor on the rear. But this will all be in the next post.
    1 point
  8. Well time for this entry which I hope will be of some interest. Please do not take my basic approach as too simple as there is a need for simplicity in regards to such construction. My choice of material is 1/2" ply wood. This stuff is a great invention as it has built in strength thus no need for bracing and reinforcement. For sturdiness in the boards a depth in the side rails of around 20% top width should be sufficient thus 1 foot wide boards needs 2 1/2" rails. A 2' wide board requires at least 4" rails.Anything less will sag. The 3 basic rules of cabinet making are measure everything twice, cut the largest/longest parts first and if at first you don't succeed. Cheat! Start by making a drawing and a cutting list with number required, rips (cutting along the wood) and cross cuts for each part required. If you need wood ripped take your cutting list to the DIY store/lumber yard and get them to do it. Never cut large heavy sheets of material with small machines! Here are the basic tools needed. I am using OFB for this step by step and have used it for at least one baseboard in the past! Start by marking the lenghts out. If you don't have access to a chop saw. Clamp two or more bits down with 2 clamps and cut from corner to corner. Then cut the same but opposite corners and finish off. Take 1 cross member and mark for two holes to drill for 1/4 inch coach bolts (or thicker if required) Using two clamps, clamp 3 pieces flush and some scrap down tightly and drill through all three. Hammer in the coach bolts Mark the edges like this so not to mix sets up. One diagonal mark for the first set two for the second etc. Number them for easy identification If you require holes for wiring use the same technique Mark a double thickness on one end of the side rails. Using a square mark where you want the cross members (avoiding any point motors etc) If you are a belt and braces man you may wish to screw each joint. Clearance holes and countersink for two screws at each joint and pilot holes in the ends of ply. I can't stress how important this is. Begin assembly on a clean and clear flat surface by running a bead of glue (using a forefinger to guide the glue bottle) along your marks. Do this upside down on the base board top. clamp things together and make sure things are flush and square. With the first two pieces of the drilled set bolted together clamp in place on the end with glue on the innermost one only. Remove the outer one to make sure no glue had squeezed out. Now add the third gluing it to the middle piece and linning up those diagonal marks. This forms the end of the next board. which will line up perfectly. Use the frame to mark the top side of the top and fix the top down with fine pins and glue on a flat surface. This fiddle yard serves two layouts and comes appart in minutes using my male-female technique. The close ups show the electrical connectors well but this type are hard to find. I will tackle legs in my next blog.
    1 point
  9. I've spent the last week or so adding all the detail components, this always takes longer than I expect, but I do find very satisfying. I used a photograph contained in Locomotives Illustrated of No 2467 as running circa 1905 as a reference. Socket type lamp irons from Laurie Griffin's range were fited and handrails were bent up from stainless steel wire. The dome, safety valve cover and chimney top were polished using abraisive wheels and cotton mops. (they are just balanced in position for the pictures at this stage!) I wasn't happy with the appearance of the tender rails, so I soldered some half round wire to them which I think has improved their appearance considerably. The kit provides some very nice brass fittings for the back head and these were polished prior to assembly.
    1 point
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