Leaderboard

I think the body language of the driver says it all; You see, he has a brand new and rather smart looking Simplex; But guess what? It doesn't work! The problem is solely down to the pick ups, I just can't seem to get them right. Have been messing around with this for two days now and really have had enough. the recommended position is to have them on the inside of the frames working on the backs of the wheels. I have tried the Phospher bronze strip supplied, heftier P.B. , brass, copper and the Berilium Copper that usually does the trick but just can't seem to get them to bear with enough force. Then I tried putting a copper clad strip transversely across the top of the frames but again can't seem to get the wires bent correctly. Another problem here is that there is not a lot of metal for the strip to stick to so keeps coming off. Grrrr and double Grrrr! So we have very small wheels and a very small space hmmm, sounds like N gauge - I wonder how they do it?

I thought I'd better get something done ahead of the Mansfield Show ( http://www.mansfieldmodelrailway.co.uk ) so last night I made up the triangular piece that fits in the two main boards at the front, covering the cut-aways needed to allow for the curved backscene corners when the layout is packed away. Some Ten Commandments walling mitre bonded to a card and polystyrene base with an initial covering of concrete coloured emulsion. I've ordered some sheep to place in this little corner field, I'll have one or two escaping through the fallen section of walling with a railway worker trying to shoo then back into the field. Next I finished off the first pack of DAS clay doing the hardstanding area around the goods shed. I hope the little pack I bought from Eileen's will be enough to finish it off. I have even left out the area where the loading bay platform sits in the goods shed to save clay! Once it's dry I'll give it a coat of the same emulsion then start weathering etc. I think some weeds etc in the expansion gaps and a couple of puddles in some of the dips I have managed to leave in the clay will do I think

It's been a while since we have heard from the Farthing Station Weekly Discussion Club. Fortunately, the Club continues to meet on a weekly basis to discuss worldly matters. Recent debates have included the Zulu rebellion, the eruption of Vesuvius, Einstein's theory of relativity, the California earthquakes, the invention of flight, Gandhi's philosophy, the discovery of the South Pole, and the scandalous defeat to South Africa by one wicket. As always, proceedings are headed by Station Master A. Woodcourt - a resourceful if somewhat cautious man, who not only bears a striking resemblance to the present King, but also plans to surprise everyone by boarding a boat to Brazil after his retirement. But that, as they say, is another story. And so, to business: Click for video: http://www.britishpathe.com/video/train-moving-through-station-aka-railway-train/query/railway Click for video: http://www.britishpathe.com/video/railway-accident/query/railway Click for video: http://www.britishpathe.com/video/speed-and-safety/query/railway Click for video: http://www.britishpathe.com/video/shunting-horse Pendon video (1958): http://www.britishpathe.com/video/hair-thatching/ Other model railway videos (1930s-1950s): http://www.britishpathe.com/search/query/model+railway PS: Those rude comments about other companies do not reflect my personal opinion - I'm a great fan of the LSWR and LBSC, but I can't help it if the GWR staff at Farthing are a bit patriotic!

Ballasting has begun! In the end I opted for the Chinchilla Dust rather than using sand. The picture shows it in it's un-weathered state. Once all the ballast is down it will be weathered using some light paint washes to tone down the light grey colour. The ballast was glued down using the traditional method of using watered down PVA to soak the loose ballast in situ. The reason why the Chinchilla Dust won over the sand is that is just looks better from a distance. Although sand looks great in some of the close up photos I've posted previously, in real life you can't see in that much detail. From a normal viewing distance the sand just doesn't quite "read" as ballast. The decision between what <span style="text-decoration: underline;">is</span> right and what <span style="text-decoration: underline;">looks</span> right, is often a touch choice for modellers. For me, generally, what looks right will always win. A model layout is effectively a theatrical presentation of a railway, even if the audience is only yourself. So, what looks right from a normal viewing distance should be the ultimate aim, although I accept that may not be everyones choice. Once ballasting is complete, and it has been weathered, the rails will then be fixed to the sleepers using plastic moulded chairs. Before fixing down, the rails will be soldered to the power supply and painted. Some gentle weathering will then be applied to the whole track to tie everything together. I know that this is a bit of a departure to the normal process of ballasting the track after is has been laid. With this method there is a lot more control over all the individual elements during construction. Hopefully this will allow me to achieve the finish I want. It also simplifies the process of ballasting, which is traditionally a very fiddly process. This is especially true around points, when you have to be careful of moving parts. Read this post and more at http://blog.murderonthetracks.co.uk

Quite a while ago, I started building a Bratchell Models class 455/8 unit - the first batch with the really ugly front end! Most of the build has been covered in my layout thread in the main forums but it really belongs here on the workbench blog. The unit has actually been running on the layout for some time. I started the handrails on the leading DTS car using handrail knobs but this looked much too coarse when compared to photos of the real things. On the trailing DTS, I used shaped wire handrails with an intermediate support made from plastic rod, and this looked much better. I have now revised the leading car to match. By way of explanation, even though it is an EMU, for DCC purposes I need to designate a front and rear for the train, so the number 1, or leading, car is the one immediately ahead of the MS car with the Replica motorised chassis installed. The trailing, or number 4 car is the one behind the TS car, which itself is also behind the MS car. Formation is DTS(#1)+MS+TS+DTS(#4). In the meantime, I had fitted the jumper cables and receptacles (adapted from Blacksmith Models EPB jumpers) to the leading DTS but not the trailing one. That also has now been updated to match. Turned brass horns were also fitted. DTS #1 has some seats installed but none of the other coaches has an interior fitted yet.

Hello all, Finally finished the Kato test track / layout. I've done odd jobs to it over the last couple of months but just never seem to get anywhere fast so for the last few days i concentrated on getting it completed, There is one remaining job which is to connect up a final point motor but i'm waiting on a new lead arriving, once thats done i shall put it in the classifieds here and hopefully it will get a new home. Few pics of the finished layout. Cheers Graham.

I realise that I am now opening myself for getting told off again for staying up too late by logging at this time but seem to have just lost a couple of hours in a Dr Who type time vortex while researching my next little plan. Anyway.... Here at last is a Simplex with couplings, couplings which will have to be taken off again while I spray it - why do I bother! Tomorrow should see it sprayed but have to admit to there still being no pick ups so hasn't actually run yet. Now, just for once, I am actually going to be sensible and have realised that probably can't do justice to a good weekend's tale right now so will do a part two tomorrow instead!

Am absolutely cracking on with the little Simplex. Played it with a bit when I should have been concentrating on getting some lunch and soldered up the bonnet. I seem to remember having terrible trouble and lots of burned fingers when I did the last one but must have got a lot better at soldering as this went together really easily. There were a couple of gaps but filled these with low melt solder and filled back so this little loco is still a filler free zone. Had another go this evening and now almost finished. Note in this picture the large sacrificial strengthener has been removed. I have also filled the inside of the seat box with lead shot, held in place with super glue. This is a very small and light model so need to fill every possible space with lead. The next, slightly fuzzy pic shows the Ice Cube speaker in place next to the motor. I don't have a sound decoder that will fit at the moment but when I can find £100 (Gulp!), I will get a CT SL76 decoder which will fit nicely. Is a good idea to make sure everything is running OK first anyway as don't want to blow up one of those straight away! And here it is all together. All I have to do now is fit the brake wheel and support and the pedals, oh and the pick ups and couplings (which I hate fitting almost as much as pick ups!). Another feature of this rather nice Nigel Lawton kit is that so many of the small or fiddly bits are duplicated on the etch so you can mess one up or loose one and it isn't a disaster. Good job really as the hand brake column has just gone a bit pear shape (literally!)!