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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/10/15 in all areas

  1. I`m actually heavy into O Guage since retiring, but I need a break from my 7mm Diorama layout, which has fully occupied my time this year, having made baseboards, track, laid track, wired track, and finally tested track....... I have kept a selection of my 4mm modified and kit built stock and it was while I was `stocktaking` I came across a 4mm project I put to one side in 2005 having built it the year before....... She`s not `state of the art` and there are a few errors and compromises to be looked at but I`m thinking seriously about spending a little more time on her....... She is based on a Craftsman models kit with a different chassis assembly and even has Ultrascale wheels. I `improved` the buffer beams by using Cavendish MR sprung buffers and various vac piping to produce a push pull variant....... I used a variety of parts from the bits and bobs box to replace dome and chimney and added the obligatory lamp irons. I can`t find the photo I worked from but she is based on 58051 that was based at Leicester and finally Highbidge. Anyway.... after a decade I think she has a quaint charm about her and am considering working on her again...... The lining as a bit poor and she has those wonky shaped cast whitemetal splashers,but with weathering etc and a bit of detailing inside the cab...... i think she might be worth saving..... What do you think ????????
    3 points
  2. This week I have been lucky enough to get hold of a second-hand Bachmann 37671 'Tre Pol and Pen' in Railfreight Distribution triple grey livery. It's an earlier release without any tail lights but I've wanted a centre headcode 37 in triple grey for a while, so this ticked the boxes. I soon set about to attacking it with the paints and powders! Given my usual oil paint wash of grubby black, a mix of black and burnt umber washed into the recesses and then streaked using a large flat brush dipped in thinners.Then I masked the clear parts using Vallejo's liquid mask, and gave it a quick pass of Citadel Purity Seal aerosol satin varnish. Lastly I got the powders out, plenty of Forge World Black Soot on the roof and then Humbrol's Dark Earth, with a spot of soot mixed in, around the underframe, lower bodyside and grills. A grubby workhorse than will look just the job shunting VAA vans on my inglenook. I need to find some replacement lamp brackets on the noses but I suspect an order to Shawplan will sort than out. The model as I received it didn't have any detail pack, so I have raided the spares box.The nose aerials are thin brass rod cut to size. I'm going to try and use some modern Bachmann dummy screw links with my 3 link equipped stock; if it plays up I'll order some Smiths screw links, but I had them spare so it's worth a go!
    3 points
  3. Like most people I have a mobile phone that does about 1000 things, only ten of which I'll ever use. The camera I do use so imagine my surprise when I found "panoramic" settings and looked at the layout. How hard could this be... Well it's not perfect but look at the gallery and I've attached a panorama of all 18 feet of Oake station.
    2 points
  4. With a smidgen over2 weeks until we go public were using all the time we can to make sure everything's running well. Evenings and afternoons all add to getting the final bits done. This weeks been running in. A lot of stock hasn't run for a few years so getting locks smooth and putting coach rakes together all takes time...but it gives a brilliant chance to take photos. We've uploaded a few of our favourites so hope you enjoy
    1 point
  5. A few weeks ago, one of our forum members asked if I would do a 'How to' guide for Hornby's Crosti Boilered 9F after seeing my first victim grace this forum: (Many thanks to Rob Mcgavin for having a play with the image of 92021) Once I received my second victim from Hereford Model Centre, I began by removing both the numbers and crests - as the chosen 9F (92028) didn't receive the Late Crest Totem before rebuilding. I used Micro Sol to remove the numbers and then polished the affected areas with Auto Glym Colour Restorer to give a good shiny surface for the decals (Fox Transfers). However before I added the transfers there was the small matter of adding the lamp brackets, grab rails to the front of the running plate and of course the Etched Smoke box Number and shed code plate.. Once these parts were done I added the decals and put the loco aside for 24 hours or more to allow them to dry properly. Once dried I masked up the cab interior, buffers, windows, smoke box number and shed code plates and the crusty (sorry Crosti) entered the paint shop. I will state here what paints I used on with my Airbrush - Vallejo Model Air - Black (71.057), Panzer Dark Grey (71.056), Olive Drab (71.043) and Tamiya Clear (X-22). First off I spray the top and running gear with black. Then slowly using thin coats Panzer Dark Grey build up the basic grime (next 3 pics) Then I use Olive Drab to add to the grime, black to added to the soot over the top of the loco and Clear to add oily and damp areas. Now obviously the chassis needs some paint, as it is difficult to paint with body on, so I remove the body and also the tender wheels (not shown) so I can ensure complete paint coverage. Once all this is done and the loco is dried sufficiently I re-assemble and begin with the hand weathering, which is basically a mix of paints and weathering powders (listed below). Tamiya Smoke (X-19), Clear (X-22), Vallejo Model Air Olive Drab (71.043), Panzer Dark Grey (71.056), Rail Match Oily Steel (2415). Plus Tamiya weathering powders (D & E) At this point I added real crushed coal to the tender and a few additional details.. Hope this helps
    1 point
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