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I've been expressing my dissatisfaction with the chassis and mechanism of the Hattons/DJM 14XX for some time now and I have finally started to do something about it. The background to this is that I need a 14XX as the 'signature' loco for my new 'cameo' shunting layout 'Bethesda Sidings', which is a fictitious location on a proposed-but-never-built GW route between New Radnor and Rhyader in Mid-Wales. With the addition of the outrageously improbable 'Vale of Radnor Light Railway' joining the 'main line' off scene, I have sometimes described this layout as 'the Prestigne goods with added Pecketts'. Back to the Hattons 14XX. The body work looked quite exquisite and on the basis of that alone, I ordered a BR lined green version, which would be renumbered to 1420, one of the Presteigne regulars towards the end of that service. The first example from Hattons looked lovely, but ran very badly, as I couldn't get it to run smoothly at low, shunting speeds. In fact, the more I ran it in, the worse the running got. It quickly went back to Hattons, who efficiently changed it for another, identical example with no fuss or bother. The second one seemed to be a better runner, upon initial checking, so I put it away and did some work on the layout for a few weeks. When it came to giving it some serious running in and checking how it was on the layout, it failed to live up to my initial, hopeful expectations. Once again, despite seeming to improve with the slow speed running, it eventually got worse after further running in, so I decided to cut my losses and provide it with a new chassis. Having already heard some accounts of problematical running with this design of loco, I had already obtained a Perseverance chassis and the necessary Markits wheels. If the Hattons/DJM loco had settled down properly, these would have gone under an old Airfix body. However, this was not to be and so the etched chassis is to go under the Hattons/DJM body. I will re-iterate that, in my view, Hattons/DJM have got the looks of the 14XX just right, especially the smokebox end and the finish is exemplary. The lining is nicely done and the overall effect is very pleasing. Hattons/DJM helpfully provide a 'components' list, should any spares be needed, which helped me subsequently in terms of identifying how things might come apart. Unfortunately, having now separated the chassis block from the body, it is my distinct impression that such an activity was never meant to be encouraged and some moderate force was eventually required, once the requisite screws had been undone. But what you are left with then is this bizarre arrangement, where the motor and worm remain ensconced in the body, with just the chassis block and wheels having come free: I tried unscrewing some of the remaining screws and found that the smokebox/boiler assembly will come away from the footplate, or at least mine did at the front end, but the cab-end remained firmly in one piece, which was probably just as well. What I couldn't work out how to do, was to remove the plastic bracket that held the tiny, coreless motor in place. The 'components list' referred to earlier clearly show that the cab and side tanks are a separate moulding, as are front and rear spectacle plates (there are actually an inner and an outer front spectacle plate, would you believe!), together with the smokebox/boiler/firebox being another separate piece. The problem with separating the cab and side tanks from the footplate seemed to me to be two-fold: i) I suspect that they may have been partially glued together. I certainly couldn't see how to simply unscrew them and I didn't want to risk damaging either the individual mouldings or the lovely paint finish ii) there are some (nicely done) pipe runs that attach to both the side tanks and the footplate mouldings and which would have to be reinstated by the modeller once the parts were separated, something else that I didn't really want to have to do. So, I resorted to drastic action and produced this from an old soldering iron tip: This acted like a 4mm scale 'oxy-acetylene' cutting torch and made short work of the plastic bracket that held the motor in place, which was partially cut up in situ and the remains removed with pliers. It wasn't gentle or genteel but I wasn't in the mood to be all sensitive with this and the loco had had it coming for a long time. The small motor was removed unscathed and all superfluous wire runs also removed. It was then that I peered inside the body and saw that there was another unexpected obstacle to my planned installation of a High Level LoadHauler+ gearbox - a lump of mazak: This lump of mazak, which clearly acts as a weight for the plastic body, can only be removed by separating the cab from the footplate, which I had already decided I didn't want to do. I then wasted some time trying to cut it up on the spot using some burrs in a mini-drill, but that clearly wasn't going to be effective and only made a load of mess. So, I reviewed what space I now had available, as any replacement motor and gearbox would have to fit in the (approx) 30mm x 18mm space afforded by the inside of the mazak block. I sketched the available space on a scale drawing: By overlaying the gearbox planner thoughtfully provided by Chris Gibbon of High Level on top of the scale drawing, I was able to calculate that either a LoadHauler Compact+ or a RoadRunner+ would fit, with the 'drive extender' arranged back underneath the motor, which would have to be a Mashima 1015, with probably insufficient room for the flywheel that I might otherwise have fitted. A call to the ever-helpful Chris at High Level has resulted in both types of gearbox being ordered and an interesting discussion on how other customers of his might fare, should they try to fit one of his 14XX chassis kits to this body (short answer - you've got to remove the cab from the footplate!). The next job will be to fettle the Perseverance frames to fit the profile of the Hattons/DJM footplate underside.

One of the jobs I have been meaning to do for ages was to add some castellated ornaments above my representation of Linslade Tunnels. As I didn't have enough space to recreate the gap between the Up and Down Fast Lines at the real location I had to settle on a slightly different arrangement, and my Tunnel has four instead of three towers. Hopefully the end result looks something like the real thing? Making up the castle towers using leftover bits of cardboard and embossed plasticard. Adding some thin plasticard strips on the completed towers, and the joining curtain walls Completed sections painted, just requiring some weathering powder to tone down the paint. Centre section added over the Up Fast/Down Slow Line portal Completed towers and walls added, some extra weathering added to the Tunnels to try and blend the new additions together. Some 'clump' foliage added to hide the gaps with the original scenery All finished ! It took about seven hours work spread over four days to complete.

Black is black, I want my loco back It’s gone away for exchange they say, Ooh-Ooh What can I do? 'Cause I-I-I-I-I-I'm feelin' blue I am really very pleased with my black Heljan 47xx. I think it is becoming one of the best ever locomotives to grace my layout. It has been a long journey which will not suit everybody. However ‘job done’ and I am well pleased. Heljan 4706 BR Black 'Night Owl' When Heljan announced their 47xx I preordered a BR green model. I read with interest the associated thread on RMweb and noted the trials and tribulations with 4706 the ‘black’ model. I dithered. I cancelled my preorder. Then I reordered and took delivery – ‘Shades of Green’. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/880/entry-21211-shades-of-green-2018-version/ I was well pleased with my green model; it ran like a sewing machine and arrived mostly in one piece. (It was only after I had written my last Blog Post and I was reviewing the pictures that I noticed that one of the lamp irons had ‘fallen over’ - now sorted.) I was so impressed with my green engine that whilst new models were still available I would purchase 4706, the BR black engine. Sadly all the stories I had read, about models arriving damaged and bits hidden in the cardboard packaging proved to have been true. Hattons must be very patient. I returned two models (plus an empty box). I could have returned the third model. However given the state of the first two rejects I realised that this third model was unmarked and whilst they were not all actually attached, all the bits were present and correct. The model was worth fettling. Engine No.3 Having handled three black engines and one green engine I have gained the impression that there are two issues with the Heljan models. There is evidence that the consignment of black engines was subject to great trauma – dropped from a great height? The 47xx is a weighty model and a lot of the detail seems to have been added using super glue with minimal mechanical keying. Bits have shaken free, I would say before arrival at the retailer. Probably due to location within the consignment, some models appear to have been driven down into the vacuum plastic packaging with such force that the cab steps have been deformed or broken off. Butanone is wonderful stuff. Glued joint The second issue relates to the footplate in front of the smokebox. I received two models where the front section was loose (but still attached), and one model which was complete in one piece but where the buffers pointed skywards (it also refused to run but I chose not to investigate that aspect any further). On the third model, the one that I chose to keep, the front section of footplate was loose and one of the stays beneath the smoke box had popped out. However much pressure I exerted I couldn’t get the footplate to lie level. Was it excess dried glue, or is the shape of the Mazak chassis wrong? ‘robmcg’ in a Post on RMweb has some better pictures of the problem and solution where his model arrived with the footplate sheared off. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92905-Heljan-gwr-47xx-night-owl/?p=3127512 Because my footplate was still intact I set about dismantling the engine. This proved more difficult than I had imagined but I did eventually gain better access to the underside of the footplate and the top of the chassis, sufficient to be able use a small blade and to pare some material away. Exploded diagram The cab on the engine is a completely separate item and has to be released first by removing two screws on the underside of the chassis. The boiler with its weight enclosing the motor can then be released by undoing two further bigger screws. Beware - the weight inside the boiler is amazingly heavy and slides in and out like anything (as per Winnie the Pooh). I had thought that the footplate could then be lifted clear of the chassis. Sadly not, the footplate is attached to the pipework beneath the cab which in turn is glued to the bottom plate that retains the driving wheels. Too much flexing of the pipework and it starts to lose its coating of brass paint. On my green engine the footplate in front of the smoke box is glued down to the chassis. Seemingly this joint had failed on my black engine. I did try reassembling without glue but reluctantly the only way I could make a permanent fix was to reattach using super glue. Replacing the two metal stays beneath the smokebox was a bit like one of those Chinese Christmas puzzles. At the finish I lightly glued the stays into the smokebox before refitting the boiler and finally pressing the other end of the stays into the footplate. I tend to agree with ‘Coachman’ on RMweb who thought the Heljan stays are too short. He remade some to be longer and hence better able to press the footplate level. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92905-Heljan-gwr-47xx-night-owl/?p=3127859 My black engine is not perfect, but then on close inspection neither is my green engine. Heljan 4706 BR Black 'Night Owl' (right) 4705 BR Green (left) Now what about the other issue, the elephant in the room? Cab side number plates There is the small matter regarding the size of the cab side number plates, not forgetting the red dot. Heljan’s small moulded plates had to go, and I purchased some etched plates from 247 developments. I bought plates with a black background and recoloured them using some Humbrol ‘signal red’ paint from long past. With the cab removed from the engine I set about grinding off the moulded number. The task is helped by the Heljan number being smaller than the finished engraved plates. Black Cab? Working on the ‘kitchen table’ I held the cab with a heavy G clamp and used a Proxxon drill fitted with a diamond coated grinding bit. The Proxxon is a relatively new purchase and it is worth noting that it runs beautiful and true – unlike the rather cheaper variant that I previously used. Tools of the trade Black on black is difficult to see and I cannot over emphasise the importance of some good natural light. Also the need to clamp the work leaving two hands free to steady the drill. I have to own up wrecking my first cab when I used a craft knife to speed up the grinding process. Luckily Heljan have had a few models returned and would sell me a replacement cab - although mine arrived with bits missing (fancy). Job done To avoid lots of repainting I attached my etched plates over the area of the original Heljan plates. Is this correct or should the new plates have been positioned centrally? Courtesy of Mr Roche Thank you John Tomlinson, on Flickr, for checking some David and Charles illustrations. These are reported to show the middle of the cabside number plate directly below the most forward part of the curve of the cab cutout, as mine have turned out. A good outcome The red dot lives on for another day. Black engines and crimson and cream coaches are a very distant memory but I am well pleased with the combination below. Heljan 4706 BR Black 'Night Owl' There is a video on YouTube prior to fitting the plates and blackening the wheel centres which confirms the excellent mechanical performance of the Heljan Model. - Now what about Black is Black: