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M1AYM

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  1. Steve, just wanted to say the issues Ive had are with purchases of second hand locos in otherwise relatively good condition. I think in both cases they have left factory with poor quality motors to start with rather than being run dry or high friction . Ive several other Heljan engines that are great runners. It feels like luck of the draw with the smaller motors. I would take Heljans advice from there service instructions if you really want to add lubrication otherwise should be good for years if smooth running anyway….
  2. Ive since had trouble with a class 16 motor also. They’re different part numbers but essentially the same size with shorter shafts. I tried removing the motor casing- impossible, as you cant get under the tabs to bend them. In a effort to get to the bottom of what was wrong i spun the old class 17 motor id replaced in my lathe and split the casing . I expected to find a dead pole on the armature but it was ok. Not much brush wear either , although the commutator did not look very circular , so may have some flat spots. Although there were some metal filings inside indicating signs of rubbing which could have been me opening the case on the lathe, I still suspect the rattling noise is caused by the armature hitting the stator magnets due to small manufacturing tolerances. Either way if youve had success from an alternative manufacturer, Im sure there are many who would appreciate knowing where to get them. Its a shame such good models are let down by bad unserviceable motors these days. For what its worth if you want to know what a smooth motor feels like - try the Hornby class 73!
  3. I didnt see the headcodes as a big issue but have to agree on the buffers. What a fiddly job. Mine was second hand anyway and already had one or two springs missing but I did the same as you in the end, just did away with the springs and collars, shortened the shanks with the flush cutters and glued in place. Its still a good looking model...
  4. Many thanks for this - much appreciated - I will open her up again ...
  5. Thanks Ray – I want expecting any kind of reply so soon, so I appreciate it No I’ve not spoken to Heljan yet but I need to I guess. Hopefully they will understand be able to confirm the issue and don’t pass me off to Guagemaster. I’m not expecting any sort of guarantee, I just want to make sure that’s the fault before I invest. I was aware Gaugemaster have taken over the spares and it doesn’t surprise me the price will have risen as well of course. Technically, unlike the olden days these motors are not brush replaceable but I was going to go inside mine and have a look. I’d rather get another motor first though. There are some motors for class 17s on ebay of course but its questionable as to having the same problem again. All understood with differing flywheel size as well and I really don’t fancy trying to get the flywheels on and off the shafts either. Sounds like your Q6 motor has a similar issue and I guess that if the commutator is off centre or isn’t round then that’s where the vibration starts but I have to say my class 17 is slow as well so if it is the motor, it could be a magnetic or a coil issue or a dead pole even (presumably they have?). Design or Manufacture ?- I guess only Heljan will know the answer and may be reluctant to disclose.
  6. I’ve recently acquired a class 17 second hand. It’s a very slow and noisy runner. A bit like the video above. Have had it apart several times to try and loosen the gearing. Several threads including this one allude to the first batch having problematic chassis but do not state precisely what the problem was. Some have changed motors and improved them. I agree with all posts here all my other Heljan’s run like a dream. My question is – has anyone had the problem class 17 motor apart and deduced precisely what is the problem with it was? (I’m guessing Heljan have never commented anywhere but simply replaced them).
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