Nick C

Like this? The 40 signs applying to the slip, the main road being 70...

But that's not the fault of their power train, it's down to the marketing machine conning people into thinking they need a humongous fancy car to show off to their neighbours - and for those who can afford it, buying an electric version means they can show off even more, by pretending to be green... (That's not to dig at the people who actually need a larger vehicle due to off-road capability, high entry, large load capability etc - but we all know the majority of them are only used for the school run and supermarket...)

For a more direct comparison - comparing identical spec Vauxhall Corsas (SE Nav) Electric - 1455Kg Petrol - 1165Kg That's a 290Kg or 25% difference in otherwise identical cars - but the EV is still less than most SUVs...

I have to say I wouldn't put too much faith in a study that didn't actually carry out any real-world tests (see the next paragraph after the one you quoted...) I agree with your last comment - all the studies I've seen so far are only comparing new-with-new, and usually make so many assumptions or omissions as to be utterly useless...

The problem with that is that there's no checking on caller ID - so they can spoof any number they like - which could be a perfectly valid number belonging to an innocent bystander...

A bit like the one that was floating around a few years ago where the callee spends quite some time going through with the caller speccing up a fully equipped, top of the range conservatory with all the trimmings, only to get to the point of being ready to place the final order and dropping in: "So, how exactly do you fit a conservatory to a third-floor flat anyway?"

It seems more likely to me that, as @TravisM says, the clips have been edited and you don't see the signaller going back to the box in between. For those unfamiliar, the correct procedure would be roughly as follows (I'm not sure whether the current NR rule book would require both trains to be brought completely to a stand at the home signals first in steps 2 and 3.5, I know from @The Stationmaster that this used to be the case). I'm going to use up-train-first for this example, as I don't know which direction is which on that line... Close Crossing gates Up train is signalled into the up platform. Signalman goes to that platform and collects the token as the train arrives, verifying that the train is complete. Signalman returns to box and: Replaces up home to danger. Resets road for down train. Returns token to instrument, sending "train out of section". Requests 'line clear' for the down train, withdraws token. Clears home and starting signals for down train. Signalman goes to down platform and exchanges tokens with the down train as it arrives. Repeat step 2 - Back to box, replace down home, reset for up train to depart, cycle token, clear up starter Deliver token to up train. Replace starters once trains clear, open crossing gates.

Or answer with something silly if you don't recognise the number? "Hello, Fraud squad. How can I help?"

The one our bus company offers is utterly useless as it always wants to tell you the next bus - from the start of the route. Not much use if you're waiting for the one that's due at your stop in 5 minutes, and so started it's journey half an hour ago...

Mine has a definite step in the webbing, with a slot for the tiebar - it's oo-sf though.

That is the case for many high-speed trains on the continent I believe - certainly PKP IEP services are reservation-only.

Do you glue those on? I tried using them on mine and found it really difficult to get them to stay in place - this might of course be down to my ham-fistedness, but I ended up breaking or losing several... Alternatively can anyone recommend any other insulating fishplates that might be easier to use for code 75 Bullhead? The Peco Bullhead ones are good for conducting joints, but they don't do an insulating version...

I have one, built by the previous owners of our house. It's terrible. You can't insulate the walls, you can't fix anything to the walls (the logs can't be fixed together as they need to be able to expand individually). The doors stick and constantly need adjusting. It's cold and damp in the winter, too hot in the summer. Basically, if you want a building totally unsuited to building a layout, get a log cabin. If you want something suitable, build it properly, with proper framing and insulation - it'll probably cost you less anyway...

Plus two of those three are supporting charities - so even if you did overpay slightly, the funds are going to help the railway...

Easiest way to do that is to search for each item and then click "completed listings" from the filters on the left - it'll then show you sold prices in green and unsold ones in black.