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A4CML

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  1. A4CML

    Neuburg

    Excellent progress Jim, what is the mesh you are using?
  2. Just found the rotating ones on their website, are they going to be doing linear ones too or have I misunderstood?
  3. Thanks for the info, what sort of depths did they come in?
  4. Really enjoying following this thread along with JimFins Neuburg as it's the sort of size I'd likely have for a RhB layout. I'm still toying with ideas but I'm pretty convinced I'd like a traverser but have no experience of one. Beyond that I'm keen to have some gradient change and maybe a loop but can't settle on a plan yet. My current EM layout has a rotating/turntable type fiddle yard which I'm happy with but as it's end to end and a RhB layout is going to be a loop I thought a traverser would be more suitable and would hope to have around 8 roads. It's good to see your progress just need to pull my finger out and get something running!
  5. About time I caught up with progress on no.11. Pretty much complete except I may give her a different number as I already have a no.11 hence the cabside numbers being black still. Valvegear all assembled, a little scary using those tiny bolts knowing there's no way a replacement could be had now. I'm not really happy that the slide bar supports extend too far out (compared to Bemo) but have left alone. I'm happy with the running too, didn't have to faff about with quartering as the wheelsets and cranks are pre-assembled. My only reservation is that if I were building a 'British' loco kit I would have tried to add a flywheel to the motor. Sadly not enough room in this case. I do like these little locos, solid and workmanlike but yet well balanced visually. I decided to leave the cab rear doors open for a change and added a crew. So here's a little posed shot of the loco with a coach and a part scratch built F series van. The van is Bemo chassis and roof with a scratch built body. All I need I now is some lettering!
  6. Time for a little update whilst I've got my feet up in the Peak District. They certainly need it! I've now primed and painted the chassis and body black. The slidebars and valve gear was also given a quick dip in some metal black to take the n/silver shine down a bit. The gearbox had been assembled prior to painting the loco and was attached when fitting the wheels. The three main axles are fitted with spring suspension - unfortunately a couple of springs were missing from the kit. I'm sure I didn't lose these! I managed to find replacements in my spare box. I also attached the pick-ups and gave the basic chassis a good test to make sure it runs to my satisfaction before the valvegear is added. The backhead has also been painted with the dials picked out in white and the various polished brass bits cleaned up. It is attached to the chassis with a couple of screws. I need to find a crew! I had considered fitting LEDs in the lamp castings on the body with a view to giving the loco the DCC treatment but couldn't find any that convinced me and anyway the real lights would be nearly invisible in daylight so didn't bother. There was the possibility of using a red LED for some firebox 'glow' but didn't in the end either but the door was only glued in so I could one day if desired. With the body painted and some glazing installed too the loco is starting to come together. The lovely fittings need a bit of paint removed here and there to uncover the brass but overall I'm very pleased so far.span widget
  7. If I could count what has disappeared into carpets over the years! The last time I took a carpet up I gave it a good shake expecting to find various lost treasures - of course numerous wire snippings but that was it!! I should learn really!
  8. Part two:- The boiler comes ready rolled with holes for various fixings ready punched through. More lovely turnings for chimney and domes as well as a ring where the smoke box attaches. I soldered the bottom seam on the boiler, there's quite a big cutout for the motor/gearbox assembly, and attached the firebox being careful that everything was aligned correctly. Handrail knobs were also added soldering from the inside. The domes and chimney assembly are attached with screws, I didn't solder them to the boiler but the various fittings were soldered. The cab and tanks come ready formed to shape. There is a seam between the front windows which was carefully aligned and soldered with a support piece behind. Tank tops and cab base were then added being careful to keep everything square. The photo shows there are three main parts of the loco, it being designed in screw together sub-assemblies which also makes painting easier. I've now added the handrails and various fittings and bits of pipework - these took me one or two attempts to get shaped correctly! Frustratingly I also lost one of the small under footplate castings, it's on the carpet somewhere! I made a slightly simplified replacement. There's plenty of the various diameters of wire supplied including the neatly represented steam pipe. So with most of the loco built it was time for a test assembly prior to painting. I've used Carr's 145° solder for the majority of this loco being very careful to give it a good clean between each session. So far so good!
  9. Thanks for your kind words Jim. Sounds like a quartering problem but as everything wheels and axles are pre-assembled would be surprised if that's it. Of course loose crankpins won't help. I've had problems with the plastic screws shearing off on FS locos before causing the pick-ups to come loose or even getting caught in the spokes. Not great for reliable running! Old age I suppose - I replaced them with new M2 nylon screws. The other thing it possibly could be is the suspension spring/s missing causing the hornblock to flop up and down. Only guessing I'm afraid!
  10. I'm not saying I'm becoming addicted to the RhB or Ferro Suisse kits but i think I'm getting addicted to building Ferro Suisse RhB kits! After building the FS coaches last year I fancied building a loco and eventually I managed to get hold of a FS RhB G3/4 kit recently along with some more coaches, (but that's another story....). Ferro Suisse produced several RhB G3/4 ready built locos including no's 1, 11 and 14, all of which have survived in use to this day. They also produced kits for 11 & 14 (not sure about no.1?) which had slightly differing parts depending on the loco you chose to model. Comprehensive instructions are included which are accompanied by some good exploded diagrams. I did translate them from German (good old Google translate!) and made a start. The footplate parts were soldered together being careful to align the edges evenly all round. The two side frames come ready assembled and just need the springs and cylinders adding. I chose to leave off the slidebars and supports at this stage as I wanted to black them instead of painting them. I love all the lovely brass castings that come with these kits especially the buffers! The brake cylinders and pipes as well as the guard irons have also been attached. When you open the box with all the various packets of parts it's quite daunting but equally satisfying when they have all been used. I have temporarily attached the buffers to protect the pipework on the ends. Next up, making a start on the boiler. Chris
  11. A4CML

    Neuburg

    Thanks for the info Jim, that clarifies things to this old DC brain! I have one chipped loco, I just need to make my mind up whether to go full DCC as I may have to hard-wire some locos. I'd love to hear what the mallet sounds like despite the eye-watering price!
  12. A4CML

    Neuburg

    Very nice Jim. Been meaning to ask, you use DCC for your RhB steam locos. I know the Bemo G3/4 has a clip out bit to swap for a chip, is the G 2/2+2/2 as straight forward? Also do you have sound in them too? I'm a bit of a novice with DCC.
  13. So the finished model, all re-assembled after a trip to the paint shop. I used Humrol 220 Italian Red for the main body colour which I thought was an almost perfect match to the Tillig model. I airbrushed it with a drop of white just to take it down a bit. The roof was a custom mix of various Humbrol greys although is not far off Precision BR (maroon) coach roof grey I think. The photo of the main passenger end with the seating just visible through the windows. Just need a few passengers! Maybe also need to paint the walkways to better reflect the wood surface better. And just for comparison a photo lined up net to the Tillig model. In hindsight, maybe I could have left the white out of the paint mix as the satin varnish I used after applying the transfers has let the red down a bit. Could be just my eyes though ! All in all I'm very happy with the model as built with the reservation that the transfers didn't quite sit down on the surface perfectly leaving a few visible edges. It seems not uncommon on other builds of this kit I've seen though. So, I'm a bit undecided about what to do with the model now. I built it because I enjoy making brass kits and am in the lucky position I have no particular project it's aimed at so can make what I fancy. Realistically I don't think I will be making a layout for it to feature on now despite having one or two other items of DR narrow gauge rolling stock I bought in anticipation. I think it would be one side project too many at the moment. For now it goes back in it's box.
  14. I managed to find a few pictures online of various types of HSB Gepackwagens. These gave me an idea of how they looked in service albeit with HSB branding. They certainly look attractive in their red livery. Photo - Klaus-Dieter Tröger This is the version made by Tillig as a RTR HOm model of which I bought the DR example. Photo - Wikimedia Commons The type which Weinert chose for their kit, the red bodysides are certainly set off by the contrasting black window frames and aluminium openers. Photo - C Ozdoba
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