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A4CML

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Everything posted by A4CML

  1. Those trees look good Jim, what have you used to make them?
  2. Hi, hope everyone is keeping safe and well. I've had a few days 'Furloughed' recently which has given me a bit of bonus modelling time to catch up on projects, although now back at work. Until recently I've been sitting on another set of Ferro Suisse RhB coach kits as hinted at in my other coach build thread. I've been trying to decide what to build them as without essentially repeating what I'd done before ie using different numbers etc. This is a major stumbling block, as far as I'm aware, there are no commercially available decals available for the era I'm interested in. After a bit of thinking it occured to me that if I juggled and cut the numbers on the existing FS decal sheet I could come to a solution. Thus the A 1102 could become A 10, which was in the same series of coaches. In fact prior to renumbering, A 1102 was A 9 before 1911. Cunningly this left me with a spare 1 & 2. Changing a 0 for a 2 give me a B 2062 (I already had B 2061). A course was set. The D 4052 gepäckwagen was another problem though as I couldn't juggle the decals. I elected to 'remodel' the kit. The kit version is based on the historic bar wagen and looking at the Schweers/Wall/Finke RhB book 1 is part of a series of 4 gepäckwagens originally rebuilt in 1928, a little late for my era, on the chassis of earlier coaches built around 1900. They were originally built with paneling to the sides and later rebuilt with flush sides. I decided on modifying the kit to the as built state, still not 100% but giving it the appearance of a van built in an earlier era, matching the roof profile of coaches built from around 1900. For added good measure, the first gepäckwagen, D 4051, had a shorter underframe, 4300mm whereas the other three were 4700mm. I thought this would set it apart from the original kit too. I would worry about the decals further down the line. With these decisions made, I had some enthusiasm to start building so started with the gepäckwagen as it would require most modification. Modified chassis members compared to drawing from Schweers/Wall/Finke RhB Book 1 The above photo shows how I modified the underframe by scoring alongside the appropriate body support bracket positions where possible and carefully snapping off, essentially shortening the wheelbase by ~ 4.6mm. The small sections that had been removed were then re-inserted at the outer ends. The floor also needed modifying on a mill to allow the repositioning of the sideframe tabs, axle brackets, vacuum cylinder and also the battery box and dynamo which weren't required for the as-built version I later realised! Holes were also re-drilled for the re-positioned body brackets. You can see where I've soldered on the inside using 180' solder hoping that it wouldn't all fall apart when I used 145' for the remainder! I had previously purchased a vacuum cylinder from MBA Pirovino so this was attached along with some nice castings for the footsteps and axlegaurds. Body brackets and various bits of wire completed the underframe. Onto the body next.
  3. A4CML

    Neuburg

    Looks great Jim!
  4. Hi Vecchio, I know a few months have passed but did you have any luck wiring the Zimo 659n18? What was your solution in the end? I'm in a similar position, this decoder would fit just in a Bemo G3/4 to provide sound but would ideally have to be wired. Any suggestions? Regards, Chris
  5. A4CML

    Neuburg

    Excellent progress Jim, what is the mesh you are using?
  6. Just found the rotating ones on their website, are they going to be doing linear ones too or have I misunderstood?
  7. Thanks for the info, what sort of depths did they come in?
  8. Really enjoying following this thread along with JimFins Neuburg as it's the sort of size I'd likely have for a RhB layout. I'm still toying with ideas but I'm pretty convinced I'd like a traverser but have no experience of one. Beyond that I'm keen to have some gradient change and maybe a loop but can't settle on a plan yet. My current EM layout has a rotating/turntable type fiddle yard which I'm happy with but as it's end to end and a RhB layout is going to be a loop I thought a traverser would be more suitable and would hope to have around 8 roads. It's good to see your progress just need to pull my finger out and get something running!
  9. About time I caught up with progress on no.11. Pretty much complete except I may give her a different number as I already have a no.11 hence the cabside numbers being black still. Valvegear all assembled, a little scary using those tiny bolts knowing there's no way a replacement could be had now. I'm not really happy that the slide bar supports extend too far out (compared to Bemo) but have left alone. I'm happy with the running too, didn't have to faff about with quartering as the wheelsets and cranks are pre-assembled. My only reservation is that if I were building a 'British' loco kit I would have tried to add a flywheel to the motor. Sadly not enough room in this case. I do like these little locos, solid and workmanlike but yet well balanced visually. I decided to leave the cab rear doors open for a change and added a crew. So here's a little posed shot of the loco with a coach and a part scratch built F series van. The van is Bemo chassis and roof with a scratch built body. All I need I now is some lettering!
  10. Time for a little update whilst I've got my feet up in the Peak District. They certainly need it! I've now primed and painted the chassis and body black. The slidebars and valve gear was also given a quick dip in some metal black to take the n/silver shine down a bit. The gearbox had been assembled prior to painting the loco and was attached when fitting the wheels. The three main axles are fitted with spring suspension - unfortunately a couple of springs were missing from the kit. I'm sure I didn't lose these! I managed to find replacements in my spare box. I also attached the pick-ups and gave the basic chassis a good test to make sure it runs to my satisfaction before the valvegear is added. The backhead has also been painted with the dials picked out in white and the various polished brass bits cleaned up. It is attached to the chassis with a couple of screws. I need to find a crew! I had considered fitting LEDs in the lamp castings on the body with a view to giving the loco the DCC treatment but couldn't find any that convinced me and anyway the real lights would be nearly invisible in daylight so didn't bother. There was the possibility of using a red LED for some firebox 'glow' but didn't in the end either but the door was only glued in so I could one day if desired. With the body painted and some glazing installed too the loco is starting to come together. The lovely fittings need a bit of paint removed here and there to uncover the brass but overall I'm very pleased so far.span widget
  11. If I could count what has disappeared into carpets over the years! The last time I took a carpet up I gave it a good shake expecting to find various lost treasures - of course numerous wire snippings but that was it!! I should learn really!
  12. Part two:- The boiler comes ready rolled with holes for various fixings ready punched through. More lovely turnings for chimney and domes as well as a ring where the smoke box attaches. I soldered the bottom seam on the boiler, there's quite a big cutout for the motor/gearbox assembly, and attached the firebox being careful that everything was aligned correctly. Handrail knobs were also added soldering from the inside. The domes and chimney assembly are attached with screws, I didn't solder them to the boiler but the various fittings were soldered. The cab and tanks come ready formed to shape. There is a seam between the front windows which was carefully aligned and soldered with a support piece behind. Tank tops and cab base were then added being careful to keep everything square. The photo shows there are three main parts of the loco, it being designed in screw together sub-assemblies which also makes painting easier. I've now added the handrails and various fittings and bits of pipework - these took me one or two attempts to get shaped correctly! Frustratingly I also lost one of the small under footplate castings, it's on the carpet somewhere! I made a slightly simplified replacement. There's plenty of the various diameters of wire supplied including the neatly represented steam pipe. So with most of the loco built it was time for a test assembly prior to painting. I've used Carr's 145° solder for the majority of this loco being very careful to give it a good clean between each session. So far so good!
  13. Thanks for your kind words Jim. Sounds like a quartering problem but as everything wheels and axles are pre-assembled would be surprised if that's it. Of course loose crankpins won't help. I've had problems with the plastic screws shearing off on FS locos before causing the pick-ups to come loose or even getting caught in the spokes. Not great for reliable running! Old age I suppose - I replaced them with new M2 nylon screws. The other thing it possibly could be is the suspension spring/s missing causing the hornblock to flop up and down. Only guessing I'm afraid!
  14. I'm not saying I'm becoming addicted to the RhB or Ferro Suisse kits but i think I'm getting addicted to building Ferro Suisse RhB kits! After building the FS coaches last year I fancied building a loco and eventually I managed to get hold of a FS RhB G3/4 kit recently along with some more coaches, (but that's another story....). Ferro Suisse produced several RhB G3/4 ready built locos including no's 1, 11 and 14, all of which have survived in use to this day. They also produced kits for 11 & 14 (not sure about no.1?) which had slightly differing parts depending on the loco you chose to model. Comprehensive instructions are included which are accompanied by some good exploded diagrams. I did translate them from German (good old Google translate!) and made a start. The footplate parts were soldered together being careful to align the edges evenly all round. The two side frames come ready assembled and just need the springs and cylinders adding. I chose to leave off the slidebars and supports at this stage as I wanted to black them instead of painting them. I love all the lovely brass castings that come with these kits especially the buffers! The brake cylinders and pipes as well as the guard irons have also been attached. When you open the box with all the various packets of parts it's quite daunting but equally satisfying when they have all been used. I have temporarily attached the buffers to protect the pipework on the ends. Next up, making a start on the boiler. Chris
  15. A4CML

    Neuburg

    Thanks for the info Jim, that clarifies things to this old DC brain! I have one chipped loco, I just need to make my mind up whether to go full DCC as I may have to hard-wire some locos. I'd love to hear what the mallet sounds like despite the eye-watering price!
  16. A4CML

    Neuburg

    Very nice Jim. Been meaning to ask, you use DCC for your RhB steam locos. I know the Bemo G3/4 has a clip out bit to swap for a chip, is the G 2/2+2/2 as straight forward? Also do you have sound in them too? I'm a bit of a novice with DCC.
  17. So the finished model, all re-assembled after a trip to the paint shop. I used Humrol 220 Italian Red for the main body colour which I thought was an almost perfect match to the Tillig model. I airbrushed it with a drop of white just to take it down a bit. The roof was a custom mix of various Humbrol greys although is not far off Precision BR (maroon) coach roof grey I think. The photo of the main passenger end with the seating just visible through the windows. Just need a few passengers! Maybe also need to paint the walkways to better reflect the wood surface better. And just for comparison a photo lined up net to the Tillig model. In hindsight, maybe I could have left the white out of the paint mix as the satin varnish I used after applying the transfers has let the red down a bit. Could be just my eyes though ! All in all I'm very happy with the model as built with the reservation that the transfers didn't quite sit down on the surface perfectly leaving a few visible edges. It seems not uncommon on other builds of this kit I've seen though. So, I'm a bit undecided about what to do with the model now. I built it because I enjoy making brass kits and am in the lucky position I have no particular project it's aimed at so can make what I fancy. Realistically I don't think I will be making a layout for it to feature on now despite having one or two other items of DR narrow gauge rolling stock I bought in anticipation. I think it would be one side project too many at the moment. For now it goes back in it's box.
  18. I managed to find a few pictures online of various types of HSB Gepackwagens. These gave me an idea of how they looked in service albeit with HSB branding. They certainly look attractive in their red livery. Photo - Klaus-Dieter Tröger This is the version made by Tillig as a RTR HOm model of which I bought the DR example. Photo - Wikimedia Commons The type which Weinert chose for their kit, the red bodysides are certainly set off by the contrasting black window frames and aluminium openers. Photo - C Ozdoba
  19. Here's a photo of the van test assembled. The end platforms were spot soldered on using a series of tabs, again a fiddle and the paint touched in afterwards, The roof comes ready rolled so the supplied vents were soldered in. I also added a lip on the underside of the roof end, which can just be seen in the photo, to stop the delicate handrail top section being pushed in when assembled. The brass window etchings were pre-painted leaving the opening window vents in their natural nickel-silver finish albeit polished with a glass-fibre brush. The frames were then cut into their seperate parts. It took me a while to work out the best way to attach the window vents. They are a snug fit in the frames so in the end I glazed the rear first then used a tiny amount of super glue added with a cocktail stick. A steady hand required for this bit! I had a problem with the interior. In theory the interior is available as a separate kit from Weinert. Despite initially being listed on their website it was subsequently found to be unavailable. I like to fit an interior - it doesn't seem quite right without one! A little internet research revealed the interior seating to be a modernish 'bus' type. Tillig do a HOm RTR model of the 3 window version of these vans so in the end I determined to buy one. I think they also do a single windowed version too. After all, with a few wagons and a tank loco too I could have a small DR based layout couldn't I !? In the end I didn't end up going completely down that wormhole...… this was side project after all.... This was useful as I could use it to match the DR red I intended to use, as opposed to the cream and red they also carried. I could also match the roof colour and use as a basis for a cast resin interior with an extra row of seats. These were painted and built up onto a base of styrene sheet and handrails added along the top. I'm quite happy with the result although probably not quite as crisp as the kit version. Who knows one may turn up on ebay one day!
  20. Thanks Paul. I did use Microsol/ Microset at the time frustratingly. I'm still wondering if the surface wasn't gloss enough.
  21. Thanks Jim, as I said really enjoyed building them and they pushed my painting abilities. I seem to have acquired another FS set so may be able to juggle the supplied numbers to make an A10 and B2062 ( or B262 for pre 1911 to more properly match my era) if I did a bit of cutting and shutting. Not quite sure what to do with the van D 4052 as it was a later 1928 build so not quite in my era. Yes a very interesting period even during steam when the RhB was rapidly expanding and consequently learning the limitations of it's motive power. Unfortunately I'm not a big lover of catenary but do find the early electric locos to have a certain archaic beauty, I have to say I'm a little envious of your FS G4/5, I may be tempted one day. I do hope the repair goes well!
  22. Pt 2 Some more lovely brass castings for the bogies. They are screwed together - you can just see the screw heads on the middle bearer, and also from underneath on the end bearers. There is also just enough room to solder on the brake blocks. They were painted assembled then carefully reassembled with the wheels put in. Test fit of the bogies. The end platforms are a separate set of etches and brass castings, a bit of a fiddle to get together with the lifting foot step over the coupling. This would probably been a bit clearer with photos before painting but can't go back now. Very delicate when exposed without the roof on!
  23. As I'm in the mood for posting a few things on RMWeb at the moment I thought I'd share this with you good folks. I'm not sure what started this but I ended up with a Weinert DR gepackwagen kit. I enjoy building brass kits and was between projects so as I perused ebay one evening I spotted this kit. It's a bit of a leap into the dark subject wise - I've always had an admiring eye for the big tank engines on the HSB but have little real knowledge. So a bit of a learning curve especially with german instructions. All the parts are cleanly etched. The main body is ready folded so saved some time. The ends were added, the inset side doors and a few outside details which soldered well after a bit of a clean up followed by a coat of Halfords primer. The instructions (good old google translate!) recommended gluing the whitemetal underframe to the floor but I decided to solder it. It is quite flimsy and needed quite a lot of gentle straightening before I was happy. There are some lovely brass castings for the end steps and brake detail which were also soldered on with some guesstimated pull rods. What google didn't tell me was I'd put the floor on upside down. In my ignorance I thought the etched-on wooden planking should upwards. I only realised this when I came to attach the body when some screw holes didn't line up. The planking can't be seen unless you turn the model upside down - oh well, needless to say I decided not to unsolder it all. The underframe was then primed and painted black.
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