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92220

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Blog Comments posted by 92220

  1. They look great Ian. I made up my own valve chest covers out of thin plasticard - definitely a good addition to the resin castings but yours are way better.

     

    I'm going to do another one of these at some point so maybe Pete can be persuaded to do some more?

     

    One suggestion is to get some 9F spectacle surrounds for the front windows from Classic Train Motor and Bus. Same shape as on Brits and the Duke. They lift the look of the cab enormously, and are relatively easy to glaze as well.......at least they would be for you.....my early attempt does have glue marks on so that's another reason for another attempt.

     

    Thanks for sharing as always.

     

    Iain

  2. True - neverwazzas give more licence I suppose! Maybe I can pass all of my stuff off as such?

     

    I do applaud you going off the correct drawings though, as the proportions look so much more "right" with the 5'3" drivers. I thought of trying one of these but my rudimentary skills mean I need to use a chassis from something RTR. Maybe one day....

     

    Iain

     

     

     

  3. Don't think anyone could disagree with that decision. I'm sure it will run as well as it looks.

     

    Latest BRM has another attempt at the 2-8-2, but using the front 4 drivers of a Bachmann 9F chassis. The author has done a very good job, but yours is much more coherent with the correct chassis dimensions and driver diameter, not to mention outstanding workmanship.

     

    Thanks again for sharing it all.

     

    Iain

     

     

  4. Hi Tim,

     

    Thanks.

    Yes to both questions.

    What I hadn't worked out is that I need to start a new blog entry or edit the post above, to attach some more photos. Unless I'm missing something. I'm used to forum-type posting......

    For the doors, I adapted some Brassmasters cab doors, and was hell bent on getting them to attach to the tender instead of the cab. It wasn't anywhere near as hard as I feared and they work quite well - pics to come in the next instalment.

    Dropped you an email - did it get through?

     

    Iain

  5. Jamie,

     

    Thanks, good advice!

     

    pH,

     

    Thanks - that's very helpful and what I wanted to assume, I think, but you have expressed it clearly enough for me make a decision! Photo evidence seems to be similar for 44687 as 44686, but nothing clear out there from late 61 to early 63.

     

    Simon,

     

    Thanks for your kind comments. I'm no expert so I'm sure you can do yours justice. If you're using the Crownline kit and a modern Black Five as the basis, I'd be more than happy to pass on any pitfalls that I encountered.

     

    The front end is much improved by some of the Brassmasters bits - slidebar support bracket (adds a lot of strength to the very flimsy slidebars as well as looking a lot better), cylinder details, lamp irons, AWS bashplate etc, plus the Gibson bogie wheels tidy things up a lot in my view. Definitely replace the smokebox door handrail, especially as you need to replace all the boiler handrails anyway. Crownline coupling hook plus a Smiths screw link work well.

     

    Don't even try to use the white metal running plates - they're for the old Black Five and I doubt they even fit that. I made my own out of black plasticard, as well as some small support brackets. Plastic weld these together and I'm sure it is way stronger than the superglue bond on the white metal inner edge that was suggested. If you start with a Black Five with the correct boiler fitments, and a rivetted/part welded tender, I'm sure that makes things easier too. Have some brass rod handy for the reversing rod, NS and copper wire of various grades to fabricate the sand pipes, AWS conduit, some other pipe/tube/run from the Driver's side to the reverser, Caprotti shafts needed a fair bit of tidying up and they are quite soft old white metal. Beware! Make up your own Caprotti motion support bracket out of plasticard or fret waste. Generally, much fettling and filing of white metal parts is needed, but they do fit OK when you've done that.

     

    Oh, and remove the under-smokebox infill before you start, and don't stick the double chimney down with NASA strength glue until it's in the correct place........!

     

    Iain

    • Like 1
  6. Hi all,

     

    Ive got a couple of questions, and a problem.

     

    Can anyone confirm whether I should leave or remove the AWS fittings if I am looking at 1962? If not, I'm going to leave them.....

     

    What would be the best primer to start the painting with? I have a Halfords grey, but it was not the easiest thing to use last time and I am wondering whether I should try something else.

     

    I've had a look at the infill under the smokebox and I'm not sure I can remove it without messing up the front end. I'll know next time and I can do it to normal Black 5s, but this had the front frames removed and white metal ones added: it was quite flimsy.

     

    The problem:

    I can't get the chimney off, at least while using reasonable force. I used Roket max to stick it, drilled a locating hole and the fit was good. Any suggestions?

     

    Not sure whether this is best posted in here or in the forums - what is usual round here?

     

     

    Thanks,

     

    Iain

  7. Hi Pete,

    Thanks. I think you're right on all counts! I hope someone can confirm it was aws fitted by 1962. Or 44686 to be honest? I did choose 44687 as the pictures I had showed it was spotted further south west than 44686, and so I could be slightly more correct in justifying having it. Mind you, as there's one element of fiction in the setting, some would argue that there's no point being correct with everything else.

    The handrails are errrr.... deliberate a mistake... Ought to try to change them

     

    Iain

  8. Hello Iain :)

     

    The engne looks really good, you have done a fair few modifications to it which is fantastic as you have created something individual. At the end of the post though you made the comment of...

     

    It sounds like you have given up on it, is there any reason why you cannot do the extra mods to it to get an engine which you will be totally happy with? Things like that would bug me until I had done them.

     

    Missy :)

    Thanks Missy

    I'm not unhappy about it at all, just trying to learn from it. I am pretty new to these techniques so overall I am quite satisfied at this stage. I might do some more to it before I paint it.

    Thanks for your comments though, much appreciated.

    Iain

  9. Tim,

    Thanks - any advice always much appreciated.

    I was working from the drawings in RM March 1999, and looking at them again, they certainly indicate the chimney well forward of where it looks in pictures. I wonder whether I might have also used an incorrectly dated photo as I thought aws was fitted by 1962? Maybe not.

    I sit idly wondering whether the Comet cabsides for 46256/7 would be a better basis than these. Again, maybe not! More likely the Comet LRP caprotti 5 cabsides, but they aren't available separately.

    I'm quite pleased with a few aspects of it. The brassmasters bits go together well, as they did on 2 other normal black 5's that I did. The front end apart from the infill under the smokebox is ok. Gibson handrails are good. The running plates in the kit were made for the old black 5 and were way too short, as well as completely the wrong shape, so I made them myself. Had to do the same with the motion bracket and the sand boxes.

    Much like the 46256 that I built and learned a lot from, both from doing it and from yours, I now fancy having a second go!

    Iain

  10. Tim,

    Of course, always keen to hear some positive advice. If you discount trainsets of my youth, I've been modelling less than a year so I've a lot to learn!

     

    I'll certainly look at the bit below the smokebox. If I think I can do it without damaging what I've done so far, I'll have a go. Interesting about the chimney too. I had about 15 pics, all front 3/4 view, and so went off the scale drawings in a back issue of Railway Modeller. Although mine matches the drawings, it doesn't quite look right. Thanks for pointing it out.

     

    It's an AWS fitted loco, 1962. I hope. Bash plate, cylinders and pipe run along the left hand footplate fitted as closely as I could find info on.

     

    Thanks for your help.

     

    Iain

  11. Hi Tim,

     

    Looks fabulous - well done and thanks for sharing the pictures!

     

    I've built one using the Comet conversion myself, and I was very impressed with how it went together. I had a few bits of adjustment to do on the trailing truck and clearance of the frame extensions, but otherwise it was good. I added one or two other things as well - scratchbuilt the reverser which, oddly, wasn't included; used a Comet front bogie and Gibson wheels; built the whole Comet tender (as I had no confidence that I would not butcher the Hornby frames in trying to use them!), added some more pipework as per the prototype. Did you use the Comet deflectors?

     

    However, I WISH I'd seen yours before I painted mine. I read about the problems matching BR Loco red colours, and asked a few more experienced modellers. I was advised to use Railmatch LMS Crimson Lake. It's nothing like as good as yours, too dark and purple to be honest, and I feel the need to build another one now! I also used the Fox cabside numbers which seem a bit too small with insufficient spacing. I echo your comments about the lining!

     

    Anyway, thanks for sharing.

     

    Iain

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