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Everything posted by M.I.B

  1. I had no inclination to do more on the Collett tender or the 8 wheel tender, so I did a few vans.... I liked the Wrenn "Standard Fireworks" Iron Mink but would not put up with the chassis, couplings and running. So I bought a Dapol Mink which has a body from the same mould! A quick repaint of the roof, a chassis swap and I get a good running Standard Fireworks Iron Mink. The second part of this work was to mount the Dapol "GW" Mink body onto the Wrenn chassis - simple job, and then remove the couplings and coupling mounts. This van will become a scenic item, so it go
  2. Well done John - not only for finding it and sorting it, but also explaining it all in an understandable way! Happy Canada Day for tomorrow.
  3. I managed a session with the Dremel last night. I'm fairly proficient with grinders, drills etc on large steel projects, but I'm still getting used to the Dremel. One tiny slip on a plastic model and it is easily ruined. I found it easier and safer to lean the Dremel against the bench vice and move the work to meet the tool. I do have the flexi shaft for this which would alleviate the problem of the unit's weight accidentally "pushing" into the work. (Fireman's side tool-bin lid took a nick early on before I switched to this tactic......) I used a thin-disk to remove most of
  4. "Shirtbutton" logos are only in yellow on brown stock. If the van had been grey it would have had "GW" letters like ordinary freight vans.
  5. I will take a photo of 6022 when it has crew. It's 20.30 now and I still haven't finished laying out bricks for tomorrow - old front door to be bricked up. So the tender work may not happen......
  6. Good morning all - two months since the last update. House build is going well, despite Lockdown. And I have even got a small amount of modelling done. I have a recent Hornby King James II which was converted to 6022 with a full repaint, and then a series of patch paints on top followed by Dullcote. Even without an airbrush weather, Edward3 now looks suitably weary which is correct for the time period - it had done a number of years in unlined livery and was just about to head to Swindon. Nothing special on the modelling front, and the same "ingredients" as usual from Precisi
  7. Thanks Tony - I was planning on using similar or Evostick on the next batch. Whenever I get round to them........ I have promised to resurrect and rescue the failed coaches before I do more new ones. Regards
  8. Be wary of using Araldite to fix brass sides to RTR. I have found out the expensive way. Next time I will use Evostick which I am told is successful.
  9. Just thinking of memorials the other day in the light of some heinous crimes, and I thought back to this item. Would it not be a deep bronze colour over most of it, with a little verdigris in the dark nooks. Perhaps a little dod of pigeon poop somewhere? Roofs were made of copper sheet which goes green very quickly, bronze just gets a darker brown/bronze colour. And anything that the public can touch (like the nose on the Wall Street Bull) is a bright shiney colour. Just a thought. And if Granby ever timewarps to the 1980s, don't forget a traf
  10. Someone was making a nice resin kit (OO) of these "road vans" - not sure if they are still in production - I made one up - looks great and went together very easily. They may have been advertised in the back of the Toddler..........
  11. When did the practice of marking Shockvans' doors with vertical white stripes? Is it a BR thing or did the GWR do it as well? Thanks.
  12. Nice mixed livery rake with the Castle. An 8F doesn't have to be a Swindon built one. Most of the 8Fs in GW service were built elsewhere. A copy of Lyon's shed book will tell you which 8Fs were where in our timescale, and then from the numbers you can work out whether and RTR 8F will do or whether you need to modify to make it a Swindon built version. If you don't have the Lyons shed book, drop me a PM and I will let you know what was where in Devon.
  13. Steve, Apologies for the lack of photos but it's a little dark and shadowy with only a desk lamp for light. Hornby Olton Hall comes with a flat steel drawbar. I decided to use this as it is a good length - not too close so that I get lock between loco and tender, but close enough to look realistic and cope with 1st radius curves at slow speed (in the yard). You have made the chassis to cope with both the Hornby articulated conductive coupling (open ended dog bone shape) and also the flat steel bar - by using a longer screw up through the front hole in the t
  14. I hope that you are all happy and healthy. We are doing a clap for delivery drivers tomorrow - sometime between 1pm and 7pm...........
  15. No modelling this weekend - too many boxes to pack, and even got as far as removing the floor boards out of the loft. NC has made its way to another temporary home Whilst I was shifting it I realised that all I need to add are wires for point motors, "two wires" for DCC and some boards. What you see here is the 98% of the traction, 99% of the rolling stock, all of the track, buildings, cars, trucks, people..... The proposed "Shed 2" project is in amongst all this too - in its own crate.
  16. Thanks John. I was mulling over the idea to retain the plug so that I alternate how this Hall looks if it can hook up the spare black 4000 Gallon tender I have from the other unnamed Hall. I would need to then program the spare black tender as a separate loco. Not a tough ask. Or I could do as you say and hard wire without the plugs etc..... regards,
  17. Lost count of the days and we are now set up for another three weeks of lockdown. I like working from Home and I am equipped to do so. I do feel lucky. A bit of modelling this week: The Collett 6 wheel tender is now devoid of all DCC wiring and boards, The 8 wheel tender got painted and decals, and coal. Below is a shot taken before the paint "snagging". And then I investigated how and where to fit the electronics, whilst accounting for the lack of pickups. I will use some left over brass from some Modelmaster number plates to make pickups
  18. No modelling this week - I have either been working from Home or packing the house/readying the site for the impending build. Foundations went in OK and bricks start hitting the deck on April 20th. Finding suppliers has been tough but plenty of independent still want to trade and using social distancing and online payment they are still operating. I am going out of my way to thank them when I collect stuff. One brick supplier from Surrey has agree to go to the extent of his delivery radius and meet me in a car park of a mates pub, which is of course closed. I will
  19. It is a balancing act between buying a recent model and a model of the correct batch. for example you will get a really detailed DCC example of a Castle with nice handrails and sprung buffers etc but from a later build batch. Cylinder covers may be wrong etc. Or you get a model of a Caerphilly Castle, which will technically be close to 01 and 18 but the standard of the model is very "70s/80s" and definitely not DCC. I have a black St Mawes, based on a Dapol model. There are one or two very minor in-inaccuracies which I am prepared to live with.
  20. It's been listed on here a number of times by various folk. The man who knows all the intricate details of the castles is Didcot's very own "Castle" who frequent these parts. He has stated which two were black at least once on here.
  21. Thanks for taking the time to make these Steve. I brush painted the chassis - insides of the frames/axle boxes first, whilst holding the unit with my fingers on the outside edges. The I held it at the rear end (nothing to paint here) and painted the outsides. The hole is a good idea - my spray stand has small crocodile clips on it and these would hold this . Good design. I will be attaching this with a home made shorter draw bar from flat steel. Whichever way I go with the chip and wires I don't need the articulated conduction used by Hornby.
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