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Everything posted by M.I.B

  1. Many thanks. Now onto the next question.........
  2. When they are not marshalled onto the end of a train, where do the brake vans go? Are they taken away by the yard shunter before the newly arrived train gets broken up and remarshalled or unloaded? Where do they go, and how are they re attached when a train is formed up? Are they the first thing into a siding and the train is shunted piece by piece onto them? I have seen photos of sand vans which seem to be near static, used for refilling of sand boxes, so that suggests that there is some sort of brake van yard. Thanks
  3. I have some late Lima OO guage carriages with identical numbers on, and would like to remove the factory applied numbers. How do I take them off without having to go through a whole repaint procedure? Thanks.
  4. A tip from the '12" to the foot' car world, but very tricky in N:D - if you are unsure how good the smoothness is on an item, primer it in light grey, and then MIST (not coat thickly) a thin "barely there" coat of much darker colour over it, Get out the wet n dry and rub down with even pressure all over. Any high points will be taken to base material ( plastic or white metal). Any "level areas" will be primer grey, and any "low" areas will be speckled with top colour.
  5. That photo is without doubt reversed. The hut on the right is where the Air Cadet hut was (it went in about '85 IIRC). If you walked along Station Road (older photo with the car in it) towards the station, just as the road curved to the right (where the Fire Station now stands) there was a footpath uphill which lead to the school. It runs along the tree line on the right of the reversed photo. The path opened up at a School entrance between the TD room and the long low building where the girls all went to make scones when we went to draw odd wooden blocks. The footpath is marked on the
  6. I have no doubt that the buildings are(were) John Bentley School as it was known in the Era you are modelling, and John Bentley School (North Wing) in the era I was there. The Cop Shop would have been there too during your period. South WIng of JBS was a 60s monstrosity that has now become JBS because as you say this site is now covered with little boxes..... I am now 100% sure that the photo has been rotated in a mirror view. I will look at it again and try to place the gate.
  7. It is not the hieght of the lowest level of baseboard that you need to consider, it is the height below the bottom of any bracing where you want to sit. If you build with a board top level of 900mm, lose 15mm for board thickness and then lose 40mm for the hieght of batten that braces the board edge, you would only have 845mm underneath for your office chair. I would suggest mocking a section up and sitting up to it in the chair of your choice. I did something similar for a garage work bench and found that I was more comfortable after a day of carb rebuilds at a position much higher than
  8. Gene Hunt's Cortina isn't the real deal anyway. Don't "rivet count me on this" but IIRC it is something like an L with a few GXL parts and a respray for TV.
  9. Stick with what you are using - Paypoint is for paying gas bills and council tax bills. I got a Paypal warning the other night following a large transaction with a well known model seller. I don't use Paypal that often as its security is in doubt. Like the above, I tend to preload my Paypal with credit from a card used for not a lot else. That way I can buy with Paypal "cash" rather than with linked card transactions. Someone was trying to using my details in another country and had set up a "look a like" Paypal fraud query page which required me to log into my Paypal to register a c
  10. Interested to see the replies because I gave up trying to keep the livery below poor weathering/bad painting. The brake fluid method will take everything down to base plastic / resin colour, and it will attack any steel parts which will oxidise quicly if they cannot be removed. Acrylics can be removed with differing levels of success using certain solvents and cotton buds, but if it has been on for a while, or sat in daylight and baked on, you may find that chemical removal gets you down to the point where the applied acrylic touches the original surface paint/decals to find that the p
  11. A bit like running your diesel today on heating oil or cooking oil with a small diesel supply to start it and heat the mainifold. But I digress. My tuppence worth - lots and lots of motorcycles and optional "chairs" as well please.
  12. Is there a chance that this image is actually reversed - I am struggling to work out where this gate was. I did my O levels in the Gym (taller of the pitched roof buildings), did TD in the lower pitched roof building, whilst the girls did HE (or was it still called cookery then?) in that long low flat building. Happy days. The houses on the right are the Police houses which ran alongside the road from the Methodist Church/White Hart Pub/Conservative Club junction in Calne towards Bromham. All of this has now gone - under a housing estate. You'll need lots of siphons - my Dad rememb
  13. That happend quite alot in order to get around some sort of petrol rationing rule - light vans and farm vehicles were exempted so lots of 4 door saloons became pick ups or vans overnight. There are 2 on the farm where I keep my cars. The ones I have seen are very "rural" and "hill-billy" - plank sides covered with creosote or any paint that they got their hands on.. Because the MOT didn't arrive until 1960, these things would be kept on the road well into the 50s - cars were a heck of a lot easier to mend in those days.
  14. How was unloading of grain hoppers done at major breweries? (1940s - ish) Some sort of ash pit with a conveyor underneath, or do they go up some sort of slope and drop like a coal drop? Same goes for creameries and dairies - by gravity drop into subterranean tanks, or into pipelines and suction pumped into the plant (a bit like a modern tanker unload siding at an airport)? I plan to have both a creamery and a brewery and would like to attempt realistic modelling of unloading facilities. Thanks in advance.
  15. Marky - Thank you and good luck with the job situation. I agree about "Day One" logos - they were not so brand intensive as the world is now, and I have seen the Old Oak Common GWR logo photo mentioned. There is bound to be a degree of overlap. We all have different measures of "modellers licience" - for some with patience, space, skill and time, this is likely to be nil, for others the priorities are very different and are pleased with table top trainsets. (Nothing wrong with that). I sit somewhere inbetween. In my late GWR case, shirtbutton was a memory in 1946 - wartime unline
  16. Thanks for the warning - I was hoping to go for subterranean point motors - there are only so many line side huts you can fit in.
  17. I am very grateful, not just for this, but for many many other things - this time last year I was coming to the end of 10 months in Helmand, where my friend was turned into "pink mist"... I will never regain full use of my right hand - so numbering OO wagons is out of my league. Here endeth the "I'm more grateful than you". The original poster asked for opinions and he got mine, and yours too. I am grateful and appreciative of the work that HMRS and many others do. Having returned to the hobby after stopping in the early 80s I am astounded at the availability of RTR and kits/transfers
  18. Many thanks for all the replies. The post mentioning adaptors did spark a memory - you could buy Triang (fat chunky) to Hornby (not quite so chunky) - I will stick to Code 100 and buy more PECO points should the need arise.
  19. Thank you all. I did a CAD course 10 years ago and have bashed out the occasional plan with it, so I'll be used to "quirks" - all CAD programmes seem to have them.
  20. I would agree. I have spent the last year repainting freight stock and engines for a late GWR set up and have lots of early decals which I would never use. I also have lots of "brown stock and "white stock" decals left over (which I will never use) , but not enough "grey stock" letters. Surely it would please customers to have slightly more "specific" decal sets, particularly for "the big four". I could of course paint everything a gaudy green colour and be happy with two white letters
  21. Is there any simple free planning software for OO planning. I'm looking at "round and round" with a few yards, a shed and table and a long straight fiddle yard. Hornby set track and flexi. I don't want the precision of Templot etc, but would like something to toy around with in the idle hours between looking for new houses. Thanks
  22. We've all come a long way since "dirty turps" on Humbrol enamels (see sig below) - well apart from me because I have been "elsewhere" building fast cars in 12" to the foot scale. (I finished my pot of GWR grey Humbrol Authentic Rail Colour last night............still good in the pot after 30 years!) I have been busy loading wagons with coal and planks, and even real iron filings, and have discovered "soot spray" which is fantastic compared to the old turps method. Please can someone explain how to "drybrush". My oil tankers are looking too clean as are the wooden minerals. Thanks
  23. Agreed - another aerosol paint tip from the bodyshop world, is to stand the aerosol in a mug of hot water (but not boiling) for a minute or so. This gets the solvent/carrier ready to evapourate as soon as it leaves the can, rather than when it hits the target. Much drier run free finish, and also an excuse to keep popping the kettle on. Just remember to take the can out of the water using a thick tea towel as the can body will be hot.
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