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Wayne Kinney

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    9 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

    Could anyone advise on the double slip (OO) kit?

    I am at the stage of fitting the tie bar, I have been having issues with this (on the B7 I built last night it was a touch thick thanks to flash and took a little thinning down to get running smoothly).   So before fitting the tie bar I did a quick test fitting a length of rail across the tie bar to make sure it moved smoothly before adding the pins and installing.

     

    However having added the 4 pins to the tie bar and placed in the slot on the baseplate it now wont move because the pin head on the underside is up against the inside edge of the baseplate.  Any thoughts as to what I am doing wrong?   As with the B7 there is a lot more flash on the baseplate than on previous purchases so I have already cleaned up the slot and the tie bar.  I am wondering if I am missing something simple (like cutting away the webbing either side of the tie bar once it has been soldered in place, or if I need to open up the slot further to clear the pin head)

     

    edit

    Looking at it further, I have checked the spacing between the holes (it matches the B7), looking at the webbing on the B7 for the sleeper gap where the tie bar sits the webbing steps out by about 1mm which gives the required clearance, whereas on the Slip it continues in line with the chairs / the rest of the webbing.  Surely this should also step out here to provide the required clearance for the pin heads on the tie bars?

    IMG_0088.jpeg

     

    Hi,

     

    There is defo an issue here, I must have printed the wrong file version. The proper CAD file has the webbing moved outwards:

    image.png.201f2fdc677fb39f49e44b848811f467.png

     

    Sorry, drop us an email and I can sort you out a replacement!

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    I beleive the debate confusion is a conflict between using track centres and on the other hand measuring between inner running rails (as the prototype 6' way).

     

    Since in model form there are variations in track gauge, using track centres is much more sensible!

     

    I beleive this is what Jeff Smith is refering to, track centres (and therefore distance between stock) shouldn't change between 00/EM/P4....

     

    It's all about where you are measuring from/put your datum.

     

    • Like 4
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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    56 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

    Sounds very interesting, Wayne, a P4 A6. Is that only available from Scalefour Stores (I am a member)?

     

    In the meantime, awaiting the delivery of my first Finetrax kit - an OO A5, which I will build to see how I get on with it and for comparison with my existing method of using copper clad for point construction. Eventually the A5 will be used in another (very) small cameo set up.

     

    Hi,

     

    Yes currently only direct from the Scalefour Stores.

     

    You should receive your order today.

    • Thanks 1

    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    45 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

    Speaking of slips, would I be right in assuming that a B7 double slip drawn in Templot will match the finetrax double slip?   If not what will it need to be drawn as to match?   About to order the board for the layout extension so will be needing to get the track sorted soon.  But before I do I wanted to ensure that my Templot plan is actually going to match the track that I am going to be building.

    Hi,

     

    Yes it will match as they begin from templot templates.

    • Thanks 1

    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    On 11/03/2024 at 21:17, roythebus1 said:

    This thread has been a bit quiet just lately, has Wayne extended the range recently? New additions? How are sales doing?

     

    Hi,

     

    I've been working quietly in the background, recently on kits for the societies. I've just finished a P4 Gauge A6 for the Scale Four Society, and a 2FS B7 Standard Crossover for the 2mm Scale Association.

    • Like 8
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1

    Hayfields 3D printed track workshop

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    On 17/02/2024 at 11:37, njee20 said:

    I’ve printed an N gauge turnout in resin. Printed on a Saturn 2 with a mix of Siraya Fast and Sunlu ABS-Like (because that’s what was in the printer!). I refuse to use anything water washable, I’m yet to see any advantages, and there are myriad problems, although they do seem to be improving. I normally use a blend of Tenacious for things like this, but based on this I wouldn’t bother. 
     

    I must say I’m very impressed with it. Far stronger than I anticipated. I planned to thread the rails (code 40 C&L BH) before curing, but they were just too flexible, post curing they were surprisingly resilient. Thrown together with rails filed by eye because I didn’t anticipate it working that well, so ignore dodgy filing.

    IMG_0330.jpeg.36e88cac10ca47dd71e225422c7c3142.jpeg

     

    IMG_0329.jpeg.c30bdc7d4ba6d54a18355c63d3a4a255.jpeg

     

    IMG_0331.jpeg.c1f47e242041dafdb62566c5b26723b9.jpeg

     

    IMG_0325.jpeg.46a9eb970f25a6700f50152e6e0c0a11.jpeg


     

     

    Well done achieving it in N Gauge. You may find you get an issue with the sleepers curling/warping upwards over time...

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    Moving from Peco Code 55 to British Finescale Finetrax Code 40

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    Having now identified your email, I thought it would benifit others sharing my email reply to you, as the info may help answer others that have posted on this thread:
     

    "Hello, 

     

    Thanks for your email and hope you had a nice Christmas. 

     

    Please refer to my YouTube video for an explanation of the prototypical formations and what the letters and numbers refer to. 

    https://youtu.be/e-lkBl7QmfQ

     

    The B6 kit will be the best replacement for the Peco turnouts as all Peco turnouts use 1in6 angle. Also, you can download Anyrail track planning software which has a finetrax library. You can use this to print templates. 

     

    Your wheel sets should be fine, however may need to check the back to back measurements with a  back to back gauge on any sets that are out of spec and give trouble. 

     

    The bounce or ‘wheel drop’ is highly improved with finetrax as the flangeway gaps are much narrower. Running of trains is much smoother. 

     

    In terms of considerations, finetrax is a more delicate track system, not as robust as Peco so care must be taken when construction kits and laying track work. Also, you must use slow action point motors, not solenoid type motors. I would always recommend buying a kit and a piece of flexi track to test things out before fully committing. 

     

    The main forum topic for N Gauge is on the N Gauge Forum here: 

    https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=3280.0

     

    Note, that it’s only when you get to page 110 that it refers to the most up to date kit style. 

     

    A similar forum thread can be found on RMweb, although aimed at 4mm/OO Gauge it’s still an interesting read 

    https://www.rmweb.co.uk/forums/topic/160234-using-the-easy-assembly-finetrax-pointwork-kits-in-00-and-em-and-possibly-p4

     

    I hope that helps somewhat, Happy New Year to you! 

     

    Thanks,
    Wayne Kinney
    Managing Director at British Finescale  "

    • Like 2

    Moving from Peco Code 55 to British Finescale Finetrax Code 40

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    17 minutes ago, n9 said:

    Would you believe I just found your reply in my Spam folder!!! I never look there because I can't remember the last time anything legit ended up there. It's like it never happens.

     

    Anyway, I clearly owe you an apology. I wrote to you on the 27th of December and you replied on the 29th of December, with the subject "Replacing Peco Code 55 track with Bullhead Code 40 track", so you have certainly answered all my questions both here on RMWeb and by email. Sorry about the mix up!

    That's great. If you can mark my email address as 'not spam' it should prevent that from happening in the future :)

    • Agree 1

    Moving from Peco Code 55 to British Finescale Finetrax Code 40

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    8 minutes ago, n9 said:

    Thanks Wayne. Your answers here have been very helpful. PMing remains a mystery to me. I see no option to do it anywhere either. I'm still mulling everything over, but I'll be sure to drop you another email when I have more questions.

    No problem. Just to be sure, does that mean you did get an email reply from me? Without knowing your name I have no way of checking :)

    Moving from Peco Code 55 to British Finescale Finetrax Code 40

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    On 08/01/2024 at 20:18, n9 said:

    I'm wondering about curved turnouts - or the apparent lack thereof in kit form from Finetrax, both in the 2FS shop or with the C40 equivalents direct from British Finescale. This post from Martin Wynne suggests cutting the webbing on straight turnouts, at least for 00. Is this still the way to approach curved turnouts when using such kits?

     

     

    Yes, many of my customers have done this over the years, each with great sussess.

     

    I tried PM'ing you but seems your account doesn't accept PM's?

    Moving from Peco Code 55 to British Finescale Finetrax Code 40

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    On 02/01/2024 at 19:18, n9 said:

    More of a concern has been not getting email replies from BF and seeing that their forum (which I mentioned above) seems largely abandoned and full of spam. That makes me wonder whether the choice is really 2FS or stick with Peco.

    Hello,

     

    I try to reply to emails promptly and usually within 48 hours. I am unable to confirm if I have received your email as your username is 'n9'.

     

    Please let me know what date you sent your email and under which name, or please feel free to PM me here. I'm friendly and responsive 🙂

    The Finetrax N Gauge range use 0.85mm flangeways through the crossing frog/wing rails. 1mm flangeways at the check rails. On diamonds/slips, the 'K/obtuse Crossings' use symmetrical flangeways of 0.925mm. Both are far narrower than what Peco use.

    This results in FAR SMOOTHER running through the crossings, especially through the newer kits that use all rail and not the older lost wax cast crossing frogs.
     

    • Thanks 1

    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    Hi Gary,

     

    Sorry about that. I beleive you purchased this kit in January 2022? This was indeed a CAD error made on my behalf but was quickly corrected in early 2022.

     

    If you buzz me an email I would be pleased to send you a replacement base.

     

    Sorry for any inconvenience!

     

    Regarding construction, looks like you've done a great job however attention should be drawn to the knuckle position, it should location where the blue line is on the template to ensure smooth running:

    image.png.ce32bbf9849951d6b0aa57f72cdcaab1.png

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    Hi Guys,

     

    I've tried my best to hold this off for as long as I could, but unfortunately with the rising costs of everything I've had to increase my prices. This is mainly due to the rising costs of resin, materials and bullhead rail.

     

    Standard turnouts and diamond kits are now £29e, slips and crossovers are now £49e.

     

    I've still tried to keep prices competitive and hope you can understand my decision :)

     

     

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