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Everything posted by Pillar

  1. It looks like the current tooling to me. There is no sign of the details between the body and bogies which would hopefully be one of the first things a retool would seek to add.
  2. Mine also arrived this week. There's deservedly plenty of fanfare around the announcement of the new Class 47, but this 20 seems like a real gem. I'd have to say its the best Bachmann loco I've had to date in terms of detail; on par with the Class 158. The bogies in particular are excellent with separately fitted brake actuators and pipework.
  3. Can anyone recommend some decent gloss and matt varnishes which can be used to finish off a model that has been painted with acrylics? I seem to be forever going round in circles reading recommendations and trying out various options. To name a few that I've tried or researched so far: Vallejo polyurethane varnishes (airbrushed) - They airbrush well, give a good finish, and seem pretty robust to handling, but I've found that even a brief splash of water (such as when applying waterslide decals) tends to reactivate the varnish and the underlying Vallejo colours within a few seconds unless it is removed! This is frustrating and unforgiving when applying transfers, and doesn't inspire confidence for longevity of the model. Vallejo acrylic resin varnishes (airbrushed) - They airbrush well, give a good finish. The matt is particularly nice. I haven't tested their durability as I have for the polyurethanes so far. Tamiya acyrlic clears (airbrushed) - I've found these to airbrush well and give a robust finish, but I had a disaster with whitening which has put me off trying them again. I'd be interested to hear others' experiences. Lifecolor acrylic clears? (airbrushed) - I like their normal acrylics, but I've read that the clear coats are not particularly sturdy for mdoels that will be handled. Any thoughts? Testors Dullcote lacquer (spray can) - Widely recommended, but seems to destroy transfers even after sealing them with an acrylic varnish first. Humbrol enamel clear (spray can) - I've read plenty of horror stories about whitening, but a can I've had for 7+ years gives good and sturdy results and doesn't damage transfers. However, the formula may have changed to something less reliable since then? I will say that models I finished using this many years ago still look good and the finish is robust, but there doesn't seem to be any consensus on a reliable enamel spray varnish nowadays? Railmatch and Revell don't seem to be well regarded. Any thoughts or recommendations would be much appreciated. I have a mountain of painting to do, and want to make sure I won't regret my choices down the line if possible! Many thanks, Liam
  4. What specifically is wrong with the non-sealed-beam tooling out of interest? I was looking forward to 45060 Sherwood Forrester coming out, but unless the errors are easy to correct, it might be better to fit headcode boxes to one of the sealed beam models instead? Cheers, Liam
  5. Brilliant! Really looking forward to these and a liberal application of weathering. Another run of RevolutioN EWS TEAs to accompany them please!
  6. Tiny HK do quite a few 1/76 scale vehicles, some of which are suitable for UK settings. Their mk2 Ford Transit is very nice and available as a long wheelbase van, minibus or ambulance. Most are in Hong Kong liveries but they can be easily stripped and repainted. The only downsides are that they are pricy and have to be ordered from Hong Kong directly; having said that, the delivery time when I bought a couple via eBay was pretty good. Edit: The Tiny website doesn't seem to show many of their 1/76 models, but below are a few examples (no connection); https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114854628681?epid=12047536685&hash=item1abdde8d49:g:mZAAAOSw6m1gyx-N https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333954188287?hash=item4dc13883ff:g:uS0AAOSwJlRe4860 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333954188287?hash=item4dc13883ff:g:uS0AAOSwJlRe4860 Cheers Liam
  7. Any chance you could share some details regarding running numbers, types of buffers, doors, placement of text, presence of yellow triangles etc? I'd love to have a go at recreating the Stella one.
  8. Thanks, that sounds promising. Have the photos been published anywhere? I'd be especially interested in recreating the Stella power station lettered example.
  9. Did any of these make it to the North East? Maybe NCB or power station internal user?
  10. If we're wishlisting gimmicks, how about DCC-controlled opening doors for DMUs? Simple sliding doors a' la Class 156 should be possible, although sliding plug or bus type doors would be a challenge. Getting back to the Cavalex 56, I've also got 4 on preorder. Really looking forward to these - including the working fans! Should be better than my DIY effort which sounded like a chainsaw.
  11. I take it the steam locos were only used to move rakes of wagons from A to B, or with conventional loading/unloading? I can't imagine them being able to crawl at 0.5mph through the unloading facility at a power station.
  12. Speaking of steam, I haven't seen anyone post a picture yet of the MGRs being hauled by a steam loco! I'm sure I've seen one before somewhere.
  13. Cracking photos Fran. the mixture of canopied and non-canopied types is interesting. It could be an expensive year!
  14. Excellent announcement! In a similar vein to your previous wagons, have you put together a rough picture of where the various types mainly ran? I'm sure I'm not the only one looking for an excuse to justify a diverse rake! Unfortunately all the pictures I've seen in my area (the North East) seem to show just the bog standard HAA in various guises; no HDAs so far. I'll keep looking! Cheers, Liam
  15. Thanks. I'd like to make one with the engine cover open too. Just need a decent representation of a Leyland 680 or Gardner 6LXB!
  16. What did you use to do the lining? It looks nice and sharp.
  17. A few photos of recent progress. The Mk3 Transit is complete, along with passenger and faithful collie. Also now in the works is an Alexander A Type bodied Atlantean (Marsden Models kit with wheels from RTI) which will end up in Northern yellow. This is the first double decker I've fitted lights to, but I think I've come up with a reasonable way of wiring the lights on both decks without too much intrusive wiring. Finding space for the battery box proved to be a challenge; in the end I hollowed out the solid casting of the engine 'bustle' to make space. The hollow casting was then attached using miniature magnets to allow for removal and replacement of the batteries. The next job will be fitting the tail lights.
  18. That does look good! I was expecting just a single LED that was blinked/faded in a particular way, but that appears to be using multiple LEDs illuminated in sequence.
  19. I've also been fitting lights to some of my road vehicles; details here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/161772-pillars-road-vehicles-north-east-england-1970s-1990s-loosely/page/2/#comments I use SMD LEDs (0805 or 0603) and mount them to copperclad board which I score to make a crude 'PCB'. Soldering them to copperclad yourself is much easier than soldering to wires; just clean and tin the surfaces and make sure you use a low sodlering iron temperature such as 270C. Higher temperatures are more likely to damage the LEDs, and old fashioned leaded solder has an advantage here with its lower melting point. I'm so glad you've pointed out that SMD LEDs with built in flashing circuits are available. For some reason I never considered this, and spent ages building a DIY flashing circuit for the indicators on a kitbuilt bus. The circuit itself is very simple, but hand-cutting all the traces into a tiny scrap of copperclad was pretty time consuming. Now I can avoid this in future! I'd also be interested to hear about the rotating beacon lights. I know some DCC sound decoders have a flashing mode which is meant to mimic these and it looks very convincing. Cheers, Liam
  20. Thanks All. Just to clarify, are you saying you don't degrease any painted RTR models or only brand new ones out of the box? I can see the argument for not degreasing a brand new model, but if you are weathering one that's been used and handled for months or years already, I would have thought some level of cleaning would be needed to ensure the paint sticks properly and remove fingerprints etc. I've tended to give models a scrub with warm water and washing up liquid prior to painting in the past. However, I'm not sure how effective this is versus otehr methods or not doing so at all. Cheers, Liam
  21. I'd be interested in hearing people's preferred methods which are effective at removing grease but without damaging the paint. I've seen a lot of people recommend Cif as a degreaser when kitbuilding, but I'd be concerned about using this on RTR paintwork. Cheers, Liam
  22. A belated thank you to everyone for all the advice, and to Will for pointing out the very useful DEMU Update article. After considering the options for a while, I chickened out of cutting away the entire windscreen and have gone for a variation of Daddyman's method: cutting the grommets off the etch and glueing them on individually. Before butchering the etches I temporarilly glued them over the Bachy windows as a template to trace out the weld line with a scriber. Hoepfully this will give the best of both worlds, but time will tell. I'll post some pictures soon. Cheers, Liam
  23. Great work as always. What livery is the grey one destined for?
  24. The SLW instruction leaflet for the Class 24 says the compromise was made to avoid a flood of calls from people saying their tail lights don't work. I think having only one light illuminated would also be a compromise though, as from the early 1980s the rules on BR were changed to require both loco tail lamps to be it - presumably affecting the Class 24/25s. I suppose it would be safe enough to produce models in BR Green or Pre-TOPS Blue with only one tail light, but on the whole I think it's probably better to have the components installed and let the modeller decide.
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