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Chubber

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Chubber last won the day on February 7 2012

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About Chubber

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  • Location
    Ivybridge, Devon.
  • Interests
    4mm Architectural Card Modelling, OO9 NG, Dining and Whining (not a mis-spelling)

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  1. Might these help, too?
  2. Thank you, that is worth considering. At that thickness it would sculpt for subtle level changes, and track pinned/glued to stuck down card or thin ply etc.. Doug
  3. Thanks, S_T, I have not yet bought same, but seems ideal for land forms, especially in bits from a local building site skip! Doug
  4. Thank you to all for your considerations, I think I will steer clear of the stuff, at least for the purpose I have considered above. Doug
  5. Hullo Ladies and Gentlemen, can anyone advise me whether or not an 8ft x 2ft piece of the above will be 'self supporting' as baseboard material if supported at 18" centres across its width but not at the front and back long sides? Additionally, I presume I can peel off the aluminium foil on each side? I know it comes in all sorts of thicknesses, but would like to use 25mm as a SEEP actuator arm will protrude enough to be useful even with a ballast shoulder on top. Doug
  6. I have had this picture in my files for longer than I care to remember, it clearly shows at the upper right a retaining wall with a 1:10 batter. The 'pillars' being variously mooted were a way of breaking up a big job into manageable lumps and terminating each section. They also gave a neat ending to a run of wall. See also http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/40546-retaining-walls-for-a-raised-car-parking-area/
  7. An old photo, but herewith a Metcalfe pub re-roofed with Scalescenes paper to avoid the 'generic' roof look. I see no problem with covering M'fe with Scalescenes, perhaps using less expensive [and thus thick], say 80gm copier paper to avoid diminishing window apertures unless you feel inclined to take 1/64" off theside of window and door openings. Decorative lintles etc can be cut using 'scrap-booking' scissors. Good advice from Kiwi, I'd never embark on a paper textured card model without a roller in hand, and UHU stick is equally good as Pritt if its not to hand at your local outlet. For window treatment, cut the paper covering the opening down the centre and fold back ONCE THE GLUE IS DRY and burnish the fold with something smooth like the handle of your scalpel to maintain a sharp crease. Sorry about 'shouting' but thin paper will tear oh-so easily when even slightly damp. Good luck, and don't forget to post pictures! Best wishes, Doug
  8. With access to a grinder and an old hacksaw blade, this will do the job nicely. Doug
  9. Your'e quite right, Ims, I've found it now, looks a very solid offering, and nicely detailed, too. Does it have textured finish or is it my imagination? [from the web site picture] Piccy please! Doug
  10. I wasn't aware that there was a 'new' goods shed? The old one [below] is certainly well proportioned for a compact shed, and with the addition of some scratch built doors and weathering, plus careful concealment of the corner joints makes up quickly into a nice model to fill a spot whilst making something more original. Doug
  11. Hi, Jonathan, Still at the planning and 'finkin' stage at the moment, starting to set up some supports for my baseboards in the form of metal brackets around my little 9' x 7'-6" railway room, see below. Best wishes, Doug
  12. Just received some of the above, VG Star! Crisp and clean, if these had existed years ago in such a number of shapes and sizes I would never have troubled with Self Adhesive window frame cut-outs. The Sheet No. 4 [engine shed] of eight '5 by 7' panes and three smaller will save several hours work in S.A. alone at a considerable saving over brass frets. I recommend them to the House. Doug https://scalescenes.com/scaleglaze/
  13. As you walk Fido in the morning, keep an eye open for rocket sticks.....allowed to dry they make great reinforcing for internal card wall structures etc..... Doug
  14. Will only work with one picture at a time, i.e. in 'old ' system. Perhaps I need to upload 'Flash 9'? Doug
  15. Thanks for the interest/replies to date, I don't think I said I would be spacing the uprights at 60mm centres, did I, or that the 9mm ply is a good friction fit inside the bracket prior to running in a self drilling and tapping screw with a nut driver? To be doubly sure, a 3" G cramp holds it perfectly tight for fixing with the screw/s. Paul - "One problem you might find is getting a heavy baseboard off the wall...", Other than station boards and major structure boards, I hope to have an open type frame work so that I can gain access to covered track/tunnel sections without having to lift anything off. It might prove that screwing the trackbed to blocks that are glued and screwed to the 9mm uprights is the way to go, as per '34...B&D''s suggestion "Screw a piece of 9mm ply into the bracket, with a good upstand. Then screw the layout profiled piece of ply to the ply upstand in the bracket. You can do all the levelling at this stage, and subsequently adjust if anything moves, sags or whatever." Izzy "Most of these shelving systems rely on a good proportion of the imposed weight bearing down at the rear vertically on the wall uprights to prevent the fixings pulling out of the wall." Very true. 8mm x 65mm screws in genuine Plasplug nylon fixings should do the job though, with 1M long uprights and the 'works' in the lower half the outward pull on the topmost screws should be minimal, and any additional lighting pelmet and backscene support shouldn't over stress matters either. Harlequin "You wouldn't then need to tap/drill through the support sideways..." the self drilling and tapping screws go in in seconds using a nut driver in an electric drill driver, no drilling, no tapping, brilliant invention! The problem of the cheapo brackets was a sloppy fit, the RB UK stuff needs a final tap with a hammer to seat it firmly, when the bracket hooks almost cut into the inside rear face of the uprights. I'm no stranger to cantilever wall mounted boards, herewith a picture of my 13ft x 2ft supports for my old Bear's End layout made in 1/2" ply which included two 13ft boards scarfed from 8ft boards. I have dimensioned drawings and 'how to' photos for anyone interested. All food for thought! Doug
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