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Chubber

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Chubber last won the day on February 7 2012

Chubber had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Ivybridge, Devon.
  • Interests
    4mm Architectural Card Modelling, OO9 NG, Dining and Whining (not a mis-spelling)

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  1. Hullo Steve, Thank you for your kind remarks, but unfortunately I no longer have anything of that vintage on my 'pooter! There is however quite a lot of my stuff on http://yourmodelrailway.net/ although you'll have to 'join', I am on there as 'Chubber' or much earlier as 'Dooferdog'. Putting Doug Dickson model railways into Google can turn up a bit, too. Best wishes Doug
  2. Another book that I would be very reluctant to lose is 'A World of Model Railways' by P.R. Wickham, 1949, Percival Marshall & Co. Ltd. [It does not seem to be very well listed, but this link to Rev. Audry's books might interest you.. https://ttte.fandom.com/wiki/P.R._Wickham ] The book is a delight, he was a fine technical artist and for the times writes with an easy fluid style. Subjects as diverse as practical means of constructing O.H.L.E. and a working practical girder swing bridge are clearly illustrated, layout planning, scenic backgrounds and perspective et al. Produced only in a dull brown board cover, it makes an interesting and absorbing read. Doug/Chubber
  3. Very succinct, I agree with your sentiments exactly. Douglas
  4. '...Old time Railways. is a gem. Sheds, coaling, wagon repair shops, cranes, buildings, sand drier, tunnel and bridge engineering, almost all with usable scale drawings. I'm currently doing a goods shed based on the one on page 113. I have spent the odd spare hour for several years trying to find the current copyright holder with no luck. It took me two years before a lucky strike got me limited permissions for the Ahern books. Sometime comes in useful on another forum. Doug
  5. Hullo Stevey, Indeed I posted some 10 years ago that as a matter of course I always scan a M'calfe model before I start it in case I need a 'patch' to repair/conceal an inevitable coc%-up. If you are referring to Kit PO229, Brewery, circa 2003, I have one, complete, unbuilt, which has only been opened to scan a few of the shapes for another build. If you p.m. me I'm sure we can come to a reasonable agreement. Douglas
  6. Hi Thanks to all for interest and suggestions to date, replies in due course. Have found my GWR wagons (appendix), will try to contact B'mann soonest. Douglas
  7. Having lashed out a whole £5 at Chris's Crafts [Plymouth PL4 0NH T: 01752 665 007 ] I am now a Crocodile keeper. Made by Bachmann, it looks OK but the wheel sets and bearings are pretty antediluvian. Any suggestions as to the easiest/least expensive way of replacing wheels/coupling etc? I should prefer to keep it 'tension lock'. I have bought it to carry my 'Tugwell-Pushleys', the manufactory for such will be my 'industry' on my nascent trainset. It will gve an opportunity for a OO9/OO interchange. Douglas
  8. I have had considerable success using Derwent water colour pencils DRY at a shallow angle. They adhere quite well to the white print surface , any over colour on the panes can be wiped off with a damp cotton bud. Somewhere on here is a Metcalfe pub I kitbashed ten years ago! Douglas
  9. Thank you, that is worth considering. At that thickness it would sculpt for subtle level changes, and track pinned/glued to stuck down card or thin ply etc.. Doug
  10. Thanks, S_T, I have not yet bought same, but seems ideal for land forms, especially in bits from a local building site skip! Doug
  11. Thank you to all for your considerations, I think I will steer clear of the stuff, at least for the purpose I have considered above. Doug
  12. Hullo Ladies and Gentlemen, can anyone advise me whether or not an 8ft x 2ft piece of the above will be 'self supporting' as baseboard material if supported at 18" centres across its width but not at the front and back long sides? Additionally, I presume I can peel off the aluminium foil on each side? I know it comes in all sorts of thicknesses, but would like to use 25mm as a SEEP actuator arm will protrude enough to be useful even with a ballast shoulder on top. Doug
  13. I have had this picture in my files for longer than I care to remember, it clearly shows at the upper right a retaining wall with a 1:10 batter. The 'pillars' being variously mooted were a way of breaking up a big job into manageable lumps and terminating each section. They also gave a neat ending to a run of wall. See also http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/40546-retaining-walls-for-a-raised-car-parking-area/
  14. An old photo, but herewith a Metcalfe pub re-roofed with Scalescenes paper to avoid the 'generic' roof look. I see no problem with covering M'fe with Scalescenes, perhaps using less expensive [and thus thick], say 80gm copier paper to avoid diminishing window apertures unless you feel inclined to take 1/64" off theside of window and door openings. Decorative lintles etc can be cut using 'scrap-booking' scissors. Good advice from Kiwi, I'd never embark on a paper textured card model without a roller in hand, and UHU stick is equally good as Pritt if its not to hand at your local outlet. For window treatment, cut the paper covering the opening down the centre and fold back ONCE THE GLUE IS DRY and burnish the fold with something smooth like the handle of your scalpel to maintain a sharp crease. Sorry about 'shouting' but thin paper will tear oh-so easily when even slightly damp. Good luck, and don't forget to post pictures! Best wishes, Doug
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