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Everything posted by Chubber

  1. Hullo Steve, Thank you for your kind remarks, but unfortunately I no longer have anything of that vintage on my 'pooter! There is however quite a lot of my stuff on http://yourmodelrailway.net/ although you'll have to 'join', I am on there as 'Chubber' or much earlier as 'Dooferdog'. Putting Doug Dickson model railways into Google can turn up a bit, too. Best wishes Doug
  2. Another book that I would be very reluctant to lose is 'A World of Model Railways' by P.R. Wickham, 1949, Percival Marshall & Co. Ltd. [It does not seem to be very well listed, but this link to Rev. Audry's books might interest you.. https://ttte.fandom.com/wiki/P.R._Wickham ] The book is a delight, he was a fine technical artist and for the times writes with an easy fluid style. Subjects as diverse as practical means of constructing O.H.L.E. and a working practical girder swing bridge are clearly illustrated, layout planning, scenic backgrounds and perspective et al. Produced only in a dull brown board cover, it makes an interesting and absorbing read. Doug/Chubber
  3. Very succinct, I agree with your sentiments exactly. Douglas
  4. '...Old time Railways. is a gem. Sheds, coaling, wagon repair shops, cranes, buildings, sand drier, tunnel and bridge engineering, almost all with usable scale drawings. I'm currently doing a goods shed based on the one on page 113. I have spent the odd spare hour for several years trying to find the current copyright holder with no luck. It took me two years before a lucky strike got me limited permissions for the Ahern books. Sometime comes in useful on another forum. Doug
  5. Hullo Stevey, Indeed I posted some 10 years ago that as a matter of course I always scan a M'calfe model before I start it in case I need a 'patch' to repair/conceal an inevitable coc%-up. If you are referring to Kit PO229, Brewery, circa 2003, I have one, complete, unbuilt, which has only been opened to scan a few of the shapes for another build. If you p.m. me I'm sure we can come to a reasonable agreement. Douglas
  6. Hi Thanks to all for interest and suggestions to date, replies in due course. Have found my GWR wagons (appendix), will try to contact B'mann soonest. Douglas
  7. Having lashed out a whole £5 at Chris's Crafts [Plymouth PL4 0NH T: 01752 665 007 ] I am now a Crocodile keeper. Made by Bachmann, it looks OK but the wheel sets and bearings are pretty antediluvian. Any suggestions as to the easiest/least expensive way of replacing wheels/coupling etc? I should prefer to keep it 'tension lock'. I have bought it to carry my 'Tugwell-Pushleys', the manufactory for such will be my 'industry' on my nascent trainset. It will gve an opportunity for a OO9/OO interchange. Douglas
  8. I have had considerable success using Derwent water colour pencils DRY at a shallow angle. They adhere quite well to the white print surface , any over colour on the panes can be wiped off with a damp cotton bud. Somewhere on here is a Metcalfe pub I kitbashed ten years ago! Douglas
  9. Thank you, that is worth considering. At that thickness it would sculpt for subtle level changes, and track pinned/glued to stuck down card or thin ply etc.. Doug
  10. Thanks, S_T, I have not yet bought same, but seems ideal for land forms, especially in bits from a local building site skip! Doug
  11. Thank you to all for your considerations, I think I will steer clear of the stuff, at least for the purpose I have considered above. Doug
  12. Hullo Ladies and Gentlemen, can anyone advise me whether or not an 8ft x 2ft piece of the above will be 'self supporting' as baseboard material if supported at 18" centres across its width but not at the front and back long sides? Additionally, I presume I can peel off the aluminium foil on each side? I know it comes in all sorts of thicknesses, but would like to use 25mm as a SEEP actuator arm will protrude enough to be useful even with a ballast shoulder on top. Doug
  13. I have had this picture in my files for longer than I care to remember, it clearly shows at the upper right a retaining wall with a 1:10 batter. The 'pillars' being variously mooted were a way of breaking up a big job into manageable lumps and terminating each section. They also gave a neat ending to a run of wall. See also http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/40546-retaining-walls-for-a-raised-car-parking-area/
  14. An old photo, but herewith a Metcalfe pub re-roofed with Scalescenes paper to avoid the 'generic' roof look. I see no problem with covering M'fe with Scalescenes, perhaps using less expensive [and thus thick], say 80gm copier paper to avoid diminishing window apertures unless you feel inclined to take 1/64" off theside of window and door openings. Decorative lintles etc can be cut using 'scrap-booking' scissors. Good advice from Kiwi, I'd never embark on a paper textured card model without a roller in hand, and UHU stick is equally good as Pritt if its not to hand at your local outlet. For window treatment, cut the paper covering the opening down the centre and fold back ONCE THE GLUE IS DRY and burnish the fold with something smooth like the handle of your scalpel to maintain a sharp crease. Sorry about 'shouting' but thin paper will tear oh-so easily when even slightly damp. Good luck, and don't forget to post pictures! Best wishes, Doug
  15. With access to a grinder and an old hacksaw blade, this will do the job nicely. Doug
  16. Your'e quite right, Ims, I've found it now, looks a very solid offering, and nicely detailed, too. Does it have textured finish or is it my imagination? [from the web site picture] Piccy please! Doug
  17. I wasn't aware that there was a 'new' goods shed? The old one [below] is certainly well proportioned for a compact shed, and with the addition of some scratch built doors and weathering, plus careful concealment of the corner joints makes up quickly into a nice model to fill a spot whilst making something more original. Doug
  18. Hi, Jonathan, Still at the planning and 'finkin' stage at the moment, starting to set up some supports for my baseboards in the form of metal brackets around my little 9' x 7'-6" railway room, see below. Best wishes, Doug
  19. Just received some of the above, VG Star! Crisp and clean, if these had existed years ago in such a number of shapes and sizes I would never have troubled with Self Adhesive window frame cut-outs. The Sheet No. 4 [engine shed] of eight '5 by 7' panes and three smaller will save several hours work in S.A. alone at a considerable saving over brass frets. I recommend them to the House. Doug https://scalescenes.com/scaleglaze/
  20. As you walk Fido in the morning, keep an eye open for rocket sticks.....allowed to dry they make great reinforcing for internal card wall structures etc..... Doug
  21. Will only work with one picture at a time, i.e. in 'old ' system. Perhaps I need to upload 'Flash 9'? Doug
  22. Thanks for the interest/replies to date, I don't think I said I would be spacing the uprights at 60mm centres, did I, or that the 9mm ply is a good friction fit inside the bracket prior to running in a self drilling and tapping screw with a nut driver? To be doubly sure, a 3" G cramp holds it perfectly tight for fixing with the screw/s. Paul - "One problem you might find is getting a heavy baseboard off the wall...", Other than station boards and major structure boards, I hope to have an open type frame work so that I can gain access to covered track/tunnel sections without having to lift anything off. It might prove that screwing the trackbed to blocks that are glued and screwed to the 9mm uprights is the way to go, as per '34...B&D''s suggestion "Screw a piece of 9mm ply into the bracket, with a good upstand. Then screw the layout profiled piece of ply to the ply upstand in the bracket. You can do all the levelling at this stage, and subsequently adjust if anything moves, sags or whatever." Izzy "Most of these shelving systems rely on a good proportion of the imposed weight bearing down at the rear vertically on the wall uprights to prevent the fixings pulling out of the wall." Very true. 8mm x 65mm screws in genuine Plasplug nylon fixings should do the job though, with 1M long uprights and the 'works' in the lower half the outward pull on the topmost screws should be minimal, and any additional lighting pelmet and backscene support shouldn't over stress matters either. Harlequin "You wouldn't then need to tap/drill through the support sideways..." the self drilling and tapping screws go in in seconds using a nut driver in an electric drill driver, no drilling, no tapping, brilliant invention! The problem of the cheapo brackets was a sloppy fit, the RB UK stuff needs a final tap with a hammer to seat it firmly, when the bracket hooks almost cut into the inside rear face of the uprights. I'm no stranger to cantilever wall mounted boards, herewith a picture of my 13ft x 2ft supports for my old Bear's End layout made in 1/2" ply which included two 13ft boards scarfed from 8ft boards. I have dimensioned drawings and 'how to' photos for anyone interested. All food for thought! Doug
  23. Well, having wanted a dedicated railway room all my life I now have one, and have had since December last year. At only 10' x 7'-3", lit by a 1m x 1m Velux, Pendon need not worry about a challenge, but be blowed if I can find the courage to start! Yes, you guessed it, deciding 'ideal height' was one of the excuses for prevaricating but I can chose 44", or maybe 42" to use it seated, possibly 48" or 50" standing because I am going to use this... https://www.screwfix.com/p/rb-uk-twin-slot-uprights-white-1400-x-25mm-2-pack/56901 as the basis of my layout supports, to see which suits me best. I intend a 'proof of concept' single track circuit of the room which will allow me to test various means of supporting a semi-open frame and of making a lift-up section in front of the door which is at one corner of a short wall. I don't think it will work out any dearer than a timber floor mounted structure and will give a lot of free floor space, with room for a work bench, a OO9 plank on a lower set of brackets, an air-brush station and some small wheeled bookshelves. [if you fancy the idea I would recommend the Screwfix 'RB-UK' pattern as opposed to the slightly cheaper unbranded version available at Toolstation. I bought a little of this to try the idea and found they a. wouldn't reliably hang at 90 degrees in each slot, and b. after a week of supporting two bags of flour on the end of a 300mm bracket, a distinct droop developed. c. 9mm ply fits nicely inside The T.S. stuff is now in the garage. Tactus lignum, the RB product has performed much better.] Below shows my ideas for attaching ply brackets and contours Any further ideas or suggestions? Doug
  24. Seems to work on 'basic uploader' only... Doug
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