shipbadger

I subscribed to his magazine from the beginning and it was a sad day when Kirk sent me an email to say that he was no longer willing to send paper copies abroad. I owe a lot of the inspiration for US modelling to the articles he published. Tony Comber

When I purchased a 1983 Land Rover (an early 110) long wheelbase station wagon it came with a short wheelbase roof rack with a sheet of plywood screwed to it. I was told (reliably) that it had been used for TV cameras at Chepstow racecourse. Tony Comber

My N scale US exhibition layout has now done over 25 shows. All the scenic section is code 55 track. The fiddle yard is 'normal' Streamline, whatever that is, it was just cheaper than code 55 at the time. Derailments usually have obvious reasons, things dropped on the track, careless elbow and so forth. One thing which I notice in earlier postings is the mention of foam underlay. Manufacturers for decades have produced moulded foam to use with their track products. Other people may use foam of the 'closed cell' type, like camping mat or floor underlay. The first type of underlay does not produce a stable surface on which to lay track, it's main function seems to be to allow minor undulations in the baseboard to be to a greater or lesser extent negated when laying track. I've never been convinced by 'floating track' arguement. All my track is laid on cork which is sanded level before any track is laid. In N I would suspect that there is no cushioning effect whatsover. Weighting of stock is something else to consider. The NMRA publish guidance on suggested weight for rolling stock. I also use a back to back gauge set to their standards. It's always worth checking. After problems with one loco some years ago and correspondence with various people, including the manufacturer it turned out the factory had been using the wrong gauge to set the wheels. These things do happen. With regards couplings, mine are all Microtrains as I've never found any of the compatable ones satisfactory. Derailments will happen, the aim is to make them a rare event. Each time it happens try and work out why. Is it the same spot, the same vehicle or even the speed at which the train was travelling. After a while you will slowly eliminate the problems, be able to sit back, relax and watch the trains go past. Tony Comber

Some years ago I walked into a Warhammer shop (in Truro) just to go and look at the paint. I found the chap running the place very helpful. I explained what I wanted by way of paint and he disappeared out the back returning with a sack full of discontinued colours and sorted out some he thought would be of use to me. I also came away with 'A Free Guide to Citadel Colours'. If this is not still around it would be worth assking for whatever has replaced it. This explains what Base, Shade and all the other terms mean and how they are used. If like me you thought that painting equaled primer followed by an enamel top coat and not much else then it is a real eye opener.

I mixed dry black powder paint with the chinchilla dust. The dust being then fixed in the usual way ie pva diluted with water after first being moistened with water and washing up liquid or iso propyl alcohol. Toned down the colour, but you may need to experiment with quantities of paint to dust. Tony Comber

The vicarage garden in Newnham, Gloucestershire had an ex-LMS brake van body in the garden. By the time I was acquanted with it it was almost totally rotted away. The only thing I salvaged was a lamp bracket.

The Sandeman advert featured Orson Welles with a raised glass. Not an advert but in the days when graffiti was rare there was a factory unit with the slogan 'Moseley was Right' painted on it. It remained visible for years. On the other side of the line the end of a terrace of houses advertised Brands Meat Paste. In Devon there was a sign telling you that the train was passing the Whyteways Cider orchard. Not sure if it was ever updated to read Coates, Gaymer, Whyteways. The other one that sticks in the mind was the seed merchants, was it Carters? Tony Comber

I've just dismantled mine and can confirm that there are screws. They are pan headed self tapping screws that cut their own thread into the pillars they screw into. Can't check the size at present as everything is packed up for transport to Scaleforum today. If you have an old fashioned hardware shop near they may well be able to help. Tony Comber

I've just read this thread and so far I've not seen mention of the aerosol airbrush cleaners. My cleaning method involves passing some of the solvent just used though the brush and pushing an old paint brush around to remove any stubborn paint followed by squirting the airbrush cleaner directly into the pick up opening of the brush. I have a pile of old newspaper to spray onto. When the spray runs clear that's it. I only dismantle when it is obvious things are starting to clog up. I have half a dozen of so brushes ranging from single or dual action, suction or gravity fed, expensive Badger or Paasche or unbranded 'knock off' copies, all get the same treatment. My most expensive airbrush (initial retail price) actually cost £25 at a model railway show complete with three extra paint jars. I was told it didn't work. Well the three paint jars would have cost more than the £25 to buy so I bought it. A good clean later and one working high quality brush. Just persevere with your airbrush, collect some old models or tin cans and just keep bashing away until you feel comfortable using it. One final comment, etching primer may not be a good thing in an air brush as as it's name implies long term use or leaving it in the brush may etch the metal. Halfords sell perfectly good rattle can etch primers. Tony Comber

Are Hobbycraft not stocking the Revell enamels anymore? They were in my opinion much better quality enamels in recent years as the quality of Humbrol paint seemed to be in decline. This problem is also reflected in the full size heritage railway world where one of the very long extablished suppliers seems to be having quality problems. I'm assuming some 'traditional' ingredients have been replaced, (not lead, that went many years ago, last sanctioned for use painting glasshouses). Tony Comber

I used Antex irons for many years. The tips have some sort of coating when new. Knowing no better as they wore and became pitted I just used to take a file to them, clean them up until the surface was smooth again and re-tin them; just as we did when soldering irons were heated on the gas cooker (showing my age). The bits were perfectly satisfactory until their next clean up. If all else fails can I suggest you may consider filing a larger tip down. Tony Comber

J B's model world trades as Chevy625 on ebay. The full range is not normally shown, mainly the N scale sizes but I believe he is open to negotiation for mail ordering bulk orders of the 00 ones if you cannot get to a show. I have bought some from a friend of his who had them on his stand when he couldn't attend a show. I have to admit I have lot's! I buy the Really Useful Boxes seperately, only buying the inserts at shows, makes it easier to carry out to the car :-) Tony Comber

It's actually called a fully concealed hinge. Available mail order from Ironmongery Direct, other suppliers probably available, I just happened to have their catalogue on the desk beside me. If any one want to look it's p319. Tony Comber

Proxxon make a small hot air gun which is designed for just the sort of use you describe. Once you have one you'll find various other jobs you can do with it.

I'm a user of the dowel rods and cord barrier. Yes the springy things are from door stops. I went down this road when somebody deep in conversation in front of the layout actually rested their posterior on the baseboard! I use a bright green cord and that seems to be sufficient to be visible and has been used for over 20 shows now. I wouldn't consider exhibiting without it nowadays. I think I should credit the Gravett's which is where I first saw the idea on their Ditchling Green layout.