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  • Location
    Prestatyn, North Wales
  • Interests
    Llangollen Railway; Lifetime Member!
    Preserved Railways; Main Line Railways in North Wales 70s onwards; A4 and 8P Pacifics; OO and N gauge railways all eras/areas...
    Playing and teaching Bass Guitar - used to be a pro' but now I work for a living!
    I'm a Christian so much activity around Church etc.
    Cycling/Walking/Driving/Lazing on the sofa dreaming of North Wales in O gauge :-D

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  1. Thanks all; I have sent off for a bundle as Dave John suggested - they have the resistor wired in, so it makes things a lot easier! When they arrive I'll connect them up in various ways to see what can be done. I still don't understand the maths, or physics, and glaze over at equations and laws, but hopefully good old trial and error will suffice! David
  2. Thank you; that's great, I'll go and have a search... David
  3. Erm, ok will do... Thank you David
  4. Thank you for your response. Unfortunately, I don't understand how I discern the 'forward voltage' and 'current of led' from looking at the LEDs for sale (eg on Ebay or similar). Typing 'LED Calculator' into Google brought up - you guessed it - loads of press-button calculators with LED readouts! I did find one link though: https://ledcalculator.net/ but it's asking me for 'voltage drop' and 'rating' in mA's, whatever that is, so I can't do the sums required...not that I would understand the outcome unless it gave me a link to the LEDs and resistors I need. I don't want to buy anything until I know what to buy...I just thought you buy 12v LEDs, plug them in to a 12v controller, and that's it, like wiring normal bulbs...clearly there's much more to it! David
  5. I'm putting together a small O gauge 1960's BLT, using standard DC, and thought it would be good to illuminate the buildings and station lamps etc. I've never done any lighting before, so would appreciate a simple approach if possible. I am about assemble the Peco station lamps LK-759 which have a tube cut out up the middle to fit an LED; this is my starting point. I have 4 station lamps and 6 buildings, inluding signal box, waiting room, engine shed etc, so need 10 to 12 LEDs. From doing searches around the intraweb and on here, and watching some technical vids on the 'Tube, I think I need to know: Which LEDs do I buy, ie what voltage and which size? Which resistors do I buy (if needed)? What do I use to power them? How do I wire them up? I have an old Hornby 12v controller which I can use as a DC power supply, if that's any good? I'm handy with a soldering iron, but have read it's best to buy the pre-wired LEDs - is that right? If someone could point me to a specific link - 'go here, buy these, assemble this way' - that would be hugely appreciated, as I don't understand the whole voltage/resistor/amps thing! Thank you! David
  6. I called Hornby about this and was told it was fine to leave the HM6000 on 24/7, and the reconnection part of the App was designed around this premise. I dunno, I guess my TV/Box remains on permanently so why not this unit, but I always feel apprehensive about leaving electrical items on when I'm not in the room, so for now I do the re-setup described above...it only takes a couple of minutes, after all... David
  7. Wow! Small scale construction at its best...The placeholder building looks better than some of my finished ones... Have to keep reminding myself that it's 2mm... David
  8. HM6000 arrived this morning, and all good so far. Took about 5 minutes to set up; I left off the inertia settings for the time being, and found it to be smooth and responsive. The 'brake/stop' feature is nice and makes it easy to reduce speed and stop on point without precision slider control. No problem with power consistency across my garage-sized layout; in fact it seemed slightly better in that respect than my old Gaugemaster. The sounds are a bit gimmicky as noted previously, but I kept them at low volume and that way they created a useful and unobtrusive background noise. In case anyone is worried about whether their device is up to spec, I'm using an old Samsung S2 tablet which runs Android 7, and so far it's handling it quite easily, and the slider response is 'grabby' and not super-smooth which gives a good feel when operating. Good fun and nice control; looking forward to eventual sound and feature updates. David
  9. Thank you for this; my trains are limited (by choice) to loco & 7 coaches, so unlikely to draw that much power, in which case your suggestion is a good one... The 1amp supply is currently £18 at Hattons so I'll go with that and see what happens. Many thanks David
  10. Help Please! Just pre-ordered mine from Hattons as they seem to be the cheapest option! Question - should I go for the 1amp or 4amp power supply? Anyone used the 4amp yet? I wasn't sure what the difference is supposed to be so I rang Hornby; they said the 4amp is for large layouts where there might be a need for a stronger signal, but for my garage-sized roundy layout 1amp should suffice, but they couldn't say for sure. (They also said that the 4amp would power O gauge locos but I'm not sure it's a good idea as the feedback circuitry might damage them...any thoughts?) Hattons said they won't exchange power supplies once used, so I really need to know before buying! Thank you David
  11. Many thanks; I was hoping for more 'oomph' from the built-in CDU but I may have to stay with my old one for now. I guess the output conundrum will have to wait for a proper bench test with different locos to verify its suitability; interestingly I rang Hornby technical dept. with the same question and they couldn't tell me the output amperage so couldn't help! I'll order one and give it a trial run; my OO roundy layout should benefit from the easier controls...(and I can't wait to hear the buit-in 'sounds' ) David
  12. Hi all; a couple of quick questions if I may: 1. Does each HM6010 accessory unit outlet have the capacity to fire more than one solenoid at a time? Most of my points are thrown in pairs to control loops/crossovers and I need the ability to throw 2 or even 4 points in one go, which my current old-school CDU does admirably! 2. Has anyone tried the HM6000 with O gauge? My Gaugemaster D unit copes fine, as did my old Hornby controller until it packed up, and I was wondering if the new unit carries the same clout! Many thanks David
  13. I sent off to Modelu and the lamps arrived next day, which I think is quite impressive! Painted them up and popped in the lenses, colouring one red with a dvd marker pen. I pushed a tiny bit of blutac into the slots to stop them wobbling on the irons. I think they look the part... David
  14. You'd think some enterprising soul would create some ready-to-fit lamps wouldn't you, rather than having to cut, file or glue solid lumps of metal or plastic...or am I being too naive, and modellers actually relish the extra work...?! David
  15. Modelu it is then! Don't know why I didn't think of them before; I've just finished painting up some of their workmen... Thanks all David
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