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dmu 156

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About dmu 156

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  • Location
    York
  • Interests
    OLE, BR Blue period

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  1. Below are a couple of pics of my Heljan 86 with the Sommerfeldt 'Stone Faiverley' pan mounted on a PH Designs 86 pan mount etch, its much better than the factory fit. This pan and my modified Judith Edge 'crossarm' pans can be seen in close up running on the Chester Cathedral layout in a video by Phil Clarke on youtube.
  2. Pete said you had visited and run some electric stock, hope all had run well with their pans up.
  3. Yes the older pans are oversprung and quite chunky to be in contact with OLE. The Sommerfeldt ones are designed to be working in contact with the OLE wether live or cosmetic, the Judith Edge 'crossarm' pan is also lightly sprung so will work in contact with OLE. The new Hornby 87 has a plastic pan head so that will wear very quickly, and other Hornby posable pans are usually plastic throughout. Bachmann's 90 also works well as it still flexes up and down with hardly any resistance once it is raised by the servo. Bachmanb's 85 works well once the pan head control arm has been adjusted to keep the pan head level at the the contact wire height you are running along. I intend to modify the pan on the new APT when its available. Hope this gives an insight into the various pans fitted to RTR stock and their limitations.
  4. Thank you, a new video of the Chester layout was posted 20hrs ago by Phil Clark it shows the 86s running with Sommerfeldt pans up and 87s running with the Judith Edge 'crossarm' pans up.
  5. You should have come and spoke to me I would have been happy to answer any questions. I'm back there Monday 16th and Tuesday 17th August
  6. I'm the person who installed the OLE on the Chester Cathedral layout and I agree with the comments in the posts regarding the variety of structures and components used on the network so to produce them in model form commercially would be an impossible task. As a train driver who has worked under the wires on the WCML, ECML and the Woodhead line I have looked closely at what could done in model form using a basic set of components. The Chester layout lattice structures are a series of laser cut parts from 1mm MDF and superglued together forming the structures you see in the videos and pictures of the layout. The brackets are made using simple jigs from 1mm x 1mm brass angle to which are soldered 0.7mm brass wire for the main vertical and angled supports with the registration arm being 0.5mm brass wire, the insulators are from the Sommerfeldt range, the brackets are simply superglued to the structures. The cantilever masts and catenary wires are from Peco which are made by Sommerfeldt for Peco. The tricky part is the tensioner assemblies, these are working models which are part of the tensioning system I've fitted to the layout. I made these from 3mm x 3mm brass 'H' section, various bits of brass sheet and brass rod all soldered together in a specific order so as to reduce the chance of unsoldering the previous component. The pulley wheels are a different matter, I have my own lathe so I can make my own at 4mm diameter x 0.8mm from brass rod, if the pullies were available to buy as a pack of 'x' amount then most modellers would be able to produce a pretty good representation of OLE as everything else is available.
  7. Thank you, just trying to help out those who have had trouble with this kit and those who are thinking of giving it ago. Another bonus with the modifications was that the brass tube stiffens up the lower arm rotation , making the parallel linkage into a loop and the extra parts under the pan head helps to significantly reduced the tendancy of the pantograph to 'roll over' against the direction of travel, a loco moving forward the pan would ' roll over' backwards and vice versa.
  8. Assemble the pan head as per the kit instructions for the double pivot method and leave to one side. Now to make the upper arms of the pantograph, this depends on whether you want assemble them as the kit suggests or the way I have done it a single diagonal brace. My way is by cutting 2 lengths 0.45mm wire to approximately the lengths shown in the picture below and bending them accordingly, remembering to allow for the thickness of the parts it will be threaded through, the diagonal length is about 21mm. Before soldering the lower arms to the brass tube set the position of the parallel linkage first, either by using the kit instructions or with the pan in the lowered position using the picture below as a rough guide in either case solder the lower arms to the tube on their inside edges by which I mean away from the bottom frame to prevent accidental soldering up of the motion, see pictures in earlier posts. this is easier if you turn the pan upside down as its easier to keep the arms level. If using the kit instructions, make the upper arms as described and assemble If using my upper arm method assembly is done in a specific order, looking at the pantograph from either end, first thread the 20mm end of the pre bent wire in the picture below through the hole in the left hand lower arm until the arm is at the bottom of the diagonal, then take the pan head assembly, push right hand side double pivot of pan head onto the 20mm end of the pre-bent wire slide along and push the left hand double pivot on to the short end of the pre-bent wire, this can flattened to hold the pan head in place. Carefully bend the 20mm end of the wire down to where it is bent to fit the right hand lower arm pivot point, see previous pictures I have posted. Trim the excess wire as required and flatten the end, repeat the process for the side. Fit the springs but I did not stretch them as per the instructions on the second pan kit I did and it works just a s well. To stop the pan from rising to far I used 2 single arm pivots from the fret, filed off the tiny spikes on the sides, reamed out the hole to push fit onto the bottom spike of the double pivots on the underside of the pan head. see the third picture below. I used 12mm long, 0.7mm brass wire instead of the 0.45mm the kit uses to make the legs which are more robust. After removing the Hornby pantograph I simply pushed the legs through the insulators, into the body and bent the legs over inside the body , its a surprisingly rigid fit. Hope these modifications inspire you to give the pan kit ago or another go, as the case maybe. The class 87 will be running at Chester Cathedral with pan up this weekend.
  9. Next cut 2 lengths of brass tube that just fit inside the width of the bottom frame and onto each these thread 2 parallel link arms. Position the 2 parallel link arms 5mm apart either side of centre of the tube, thread the length of 0.45mm wire that comes with kit through the smaller hole of the link arms, use this wire to hold down the link arms on a piece of wood while you solder the far end of the link arms to the tube, see the brass parts in pics below, as the assembly and soldering takes place on the tube and away from the frame there is very little chance of soldering up the motion of the pantograph, plus its much easier to solder the parts. Next make the parallel link itself using the jig provided but instead of 2 separate wires, make it a loop, see the loco mounted pan picture below which has the loop made from brass for clarity, fit the parallel link arm assemblies each ends of the loop then bend the ends over and solder together, see picture of the drawing. Fit the lower arms of the pantograph onto the brass tube in the correct orientation but do not solder at this time. Cut 2 lengths of the 0.45 wire that are wider than the bottom frame as per the kit instructions. Start at the 'long' end as its easier , thread the 0.45 wire into the hole on side of the frame as it says in the kit but also through the brass tube and through the hole on the other side of the frame so it forms an axle for the brass tube, make sure you orientate the parallel linkage correctly at this point, the link arms should up at the short end , down at the long end, see loco picture.. To do the 'short' end you will first have to gently bend the 'A' shape on the outside edge of the frame out of the way to thread the wire through it's hole and through to brass tube to the other side, straighten the 'A' shape when done. See next post.
  10. To do this modification you will need a set of fine broaches, [ Squires tools, Eileen's Emporium or Ebay are good sources of these] and some micro brass tube, the size required is in the picture below [ Ebay is the best source] a good powerful soldering iron or even better a soldering station, 40 watt is the or more is best and some separate flux, always use a little flux for all soldering procedures as helps the solder to flow so you don't need as much solder or heat. Start by making the bottom frame as described in the instructions with the kit on a piece of wood not on the loco but do not solder the 4 lengths of 0.45 wire to the frame only use them with the template to keep the frame square, I solder a larger diameter brass wire to the frame to make the legs at the end. As you can see from my pictures in my previous post I use the Hornby insulators on the model rather than the kit ones, the choice is yours. Next take finest broach and start to ream out the mounting hole of the lower arms whilst they're still on the fret as its easier to hold them. Then take the next sized broach and continue to carefully ream the hole until you can just about push the brass tube into through it. Make the lower arms up as per the kit instructions and put to one side. Take 4 parallel link arms off the fret and using a pair of pliers to hold each one in turn ream out the mounting hole at wider end as per the lower arms. See next post.
  11. Below is a pictures of my latest modified Judith Edge crossarm pan kit, follow the following posts of what you need and how to do it.
  12. I will be at Chester Cathedral on Friday 30th and Saturday 31st of July if anyone is visiting on these dates and I'll be happy to answer question about the OLE.
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