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Gilbert

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Everything posted by Gilbert

  1. Obviously they won't have anything else that interests you while you're there...just don't ask.... Chris H
  2. Here's a photo I grabbed during the Missenden weekend....lovely looking (and running) model... Chris H
  3. TBH I need to do something similar....I have projects that will simply never happen and tools I will never use.... Chris
  4. I was on that trip and it was what prompted my original posting. The lack of diesel on the rear was the topic of much discussion at Carlisle among both rail enthusiasts and other passengers such as my other half who was surprised we had no "insurance" for the trip south. Chris
  5. If you have a Halfords nearby seek out their Matt Lacquer.....test first obviously...
  6. Today at Lawrence Hill - Westbury to Cardiff Canton for timber traffic reportedly
  7. 3S59 seen at Lawrence Hill (Bristol) today with 66848/50
  8. and I'd probably paint it as well even with the work you are doing on the building.... in terms of fixing in place - I use spur shelving as it means boards are accessible for maintenance etc and it makes preparation etc easier. Chris
  9. I like those 16Ts Steve FWIW I find the factory finish is useful if you want the oils to run or use them as a wash. I've used Sansodor as an odourless thinner - available in Hobbycraft My preferred sequence is: Wash or oils Airbrush (enamels) This provides a better surface for the pigments to stick. Pigments Drybrush or brush paint Possible light airbrush again I tend to dulcote once they've had a few days to "dry" - longer may be better but there is so little paint actually left on the model its usually not a problem. Chris
  10. A very thoughtful post - thanks Simon. I too have my moments of disappointment and frutration but on balance RMweb has treated me well and I've made a few friends...and I hope I've also helped a few others along our rocky road... Chrs H
  11. It just ends up as a dark brown mess so I woud not worry too much. Adding white does provide the possibility of a slight fade as well. Neil also discusses picture references - critical to a credible finish in my opinion Chris
  12. Based on what Neil suggests I use Titanium White. Ivory Black, Raw Umber plus Brown Ochre and Indian Red (last two can be with pigments added for grainy rust effects). As with all weathering it's worth testing. However oils are fairly forgiving with a long working time and you can get most off with thinners if you do have a glitch. Enamels are also more easy to remedy than quick drying acrylics in my opinion FWIW. Chrs H
  13. Cropper Street has a number of invites for 2024 - details to follow soon... It is also possiby in Railway Modeller in May next year to coincide with the return of StowRail - also more details to follow soon... Chris
  14. Sorry Wayne - I have no idea of the exact origin - I think it may be Oxford diecast unlike the CVRT which is an ancient boxed Airfix. Series 2. Here's a better pic. These are close: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255376196334?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAiA3aeqBhBzEiwAxFiOBpZy0Eqy_VXRG-iCkftI2y8scxamt-kmTLBUHbI3jNy0YAA9il5HcRoCtjsQAvD_BwE https://www.hattons.co.uk/567151/oxford_diecast_76lrfcg004_land_rover_fc_gs_no_27_squadron_raf_leuchars/stockdetail?gclid=CjwKCAiA3aeqBhBzEiwAxFiOBopzFe8e5FkDEJfLnpLttCpUYGi70pzLA8nFf_DSL9ot2BsrfUgotBoCiVkQAvD_BwE https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393341521401?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAiA3aeqBhBzEiwAxFiOBj__sHEMr9J3gHeLIefUj8g_2asi_qv3_jtjrkXo8C6SFSyc0lpMIxoCIEcQAvD_BwE Chris
  15. A little off 7mm but this is the same technique used on a 4mm van...
  16. Artists oils from Hobby craft put on then taken off with thinner - I use white spirit but odourless thinners are also available if more expensive. 1. Underframe is airbrushed – wheel rims are previously blackened with a marker pen . Test First 2. Panels are next: a. Mix brown, black and white oils on a palette (white gives slightly faded look) b. Large ?5-7mm round brush to apply – looks crude but in common with many weathering techniques its about taking stuff off. c. Paint corner panels, all angles etc. Looks very stark. Oil paint can be worked for a long time. d. Rinse brush in thinners then downward movements to blend & remove paint e. Take paper towel and wipe down to remove paint f. Take a DRY brush and work down and in to nooks and crannies – have several dry brushes ready. g. Keep working –flat brush – always vertical – streaks will fade. Sit in the angles. h. Little circular motion with another dry brush to clean the centre of the panels and let original body colour show through – most paint has been removed. 3. Refining techniques such as dirt around rivets etc. a. Stick with oil paints because of their working time and blending capability b. Dab panel mix around rivet detail – small brush - the paint can be thinned more to make a wash c. Gently work over with blending brush- apply and remove = dirt accumulation. d. I've done a bit of (almost) dry brushing on the undeframes e. A few powders have been dabbed around using a micro-brush. 4. Finishing - the mineral wagon has had a very light over spray of an enamel track colour mix, then the same mix then lightened to give a fading effect and the vans have been dulcoted I've been inspired by the excellent work Neil Podbery has done in the GOG Youtubes. Worth a watch! Chris H.
  17. Here's anothe Dapol Van - mainly oils on this one..
  18. A small addition to the wagon fleet. Bachmann VEA - an experiment in oils, pigments and airbrushing in 4mm.
  19. A bit of 7mm fun I used as a demo piece at Missenden over the weekend. 7mm Dapol 16T Mineral Airbrushed under frame with pigments Oils on body followed by airbrushed blending coat. Phoenix "Rusty Rails" airbrushed on the interior.
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