Gilbert

I've been experimenting with Modeltech board joiners and I'm very pleased ( I event sent him some US Code 83 which I think means he's now added those to his range)

and a bit more testing...

I pre-wired the track once it was cut to size.

As I have not really had a good look at mine and having seen this post I have dug them out and tried mine on Peco normal Code 75 short radius on my Cropper Street layout and even when roughly pushed they are fine. I've installed Kadees couplings if that make any difference. May be short radius C100 turnouts could be a compromise if space is tight?

I think the skirted versions have a simplified motion..

I've PM'd his Sheepness as I've rather coincidentally got a similar issue which is currently having a slight impact on my modelling mojo and dexterity . I wish him well and I'm sure things will improve for both of us. I just wanted to add that although I do have concerns once you've sat in the Outpatient waiting area for a neuro surgery set up you soon realise you're actually quite well off.... C

Submit an invoice then drive to Barnard Castle....sorry...

I mix two methods - glue then ballast on the shoulders followed by dry ballast and the wet water by fine spray and matt medium by dropper on the material around the sleepers. BTW I do the cess first of all.

FWIW Digitrains did one for me with sound and stay alive (in the cab IIRC but any visual issue is outweighed by splendid running)

Full size plan out again to sort out wiring and PMs. The inputs for point motors and DCC are located at the rear. The NCE PCP panel will go in the front fascia. A lesson learnt - the Point Controls will be in a small panel set into the Fiddle Yard. This is easy too use but also means the layout PMs etc can't be tested without attaching the FY. On Dock Street I used a small tethered box which could be connected to the layout if required for testing etc. but was normally "permanently" attached to the shunting track. I think this is actually the best solutio

I have got some of the brass axles and agree they are a major improvement. Interesting to see how you cut the magnets with a knife. Hadn't thought nof that!

Have you seen his restraint? It has a special case.....

As we all await our MRJs I feel we should at least celebrate St Patrick's Day in style......Malbec for me...bad experience with Guiness in 1978....

Cheers Terry - Yup...I've used the foam brake trick as well - also in 7mm with S&W couplings I've also trialled a Rapido switchable uncoupler but although I have not opened it up I think magnets move into place when activated - unfortunately they also seemed strong enough to attract axles when "off".

Hi Terry - jumping ahead in the project to a later photo - there are 2 magnets. The main one is located where stock being shunted into the two front sidings is orientated so the curve exaggerates the coupler opening (ignore the nearest line - it will be a cement siding not usually included in the Inglenook game) I don't use magnets below the track as I find they are too strong for most British stock with steel axles and cause a shuffle as the wagon passes over it. I suspect an electromagnet or a hinged magnet would work but I'd probably need a foot pedal to get everything coordinated!

and a bit of paint.. I try to make parts easily fitted and removed. Apart from the front profile board fitted at the end of the build everything else is fitted in place with small M4 and M5 machine screws, wing nuts and in some case pronged tee captive nuts

A bit more woodwork...

The joint between FY and main board. I use 3mm ply set into the 3mm cork to provide a firm foundation for the track. I have found that some "3mm" ply is not and I carefully preserve my small stock of the correct wood for jobs such as this. More brick action...

The fascia

Cork down and work on the lighting rig underway. The two wedge shaped pieces sit on the end boards and project the fascia about 50mm in front of the layout. It is designed to be easy to slot on and off as the layout is stored in a 77L RUB.

The Fiddle Yard board with some stock shelves about to be added. The layout is operated from the front and this is all visible.

A bit of clearance testing...the LH board is the Fiddle Yard

Thanks Marc - 2 or 3 cups normally sorts me out although when we are back to shows that may notch up. I think the key factors are: I'm fortunate to have a garage workbench where I can leave the project and tools and just come to it when I have a bit of time. I'm even more fortunate to have a partner who is happy for me to leave my small projects on our little (currently almost never) used Dining Room table! Chris

A very useful workshop accessory!

Hi Terry - All small Code 75. I've also found that this orientation with the RH turnouts rather than LH is much better in use with the Kadee couplers I use.