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  1. Oops sorry, missed the earlier post from uax6. Doh!!
  2. Marcus, please forgive my "rivet counter" comment, but you could save some cash if you space out the poles as they look a tad close to one another I'm afraid. This is from a much earlier "post" (sorry) on the subject: Poles on straight stretches are spaced on average 65 yards apart. (=780mm or 30inches in 4mm scale). Just a thought. Lovely layout by the way.
  3. I have a Powercab unit and recently read about increasing the recall stack from the factory preset of two, to the possible amazing six!!. I had a look at doing this the other day (possibly after too much caffiene) and after "reading" the manual (yes, it is possible for us blokes to do this, but only very occasionally mind) I went through the miriad of commands to carry out the alteration. Despite spending what seemed like an age scrolling backwards and forwards both on the Powercab AND the manual (why can't they make these things legible to "mere mortals" instead of writing in tech-speak?) I d
  4. I e-mailed NCE and asked them if they would accept my registration via e-mail rather than the hassle (and possible failure) of sending the yellow card through the postal system. NCE replied stating they were willing to accept the e-mail version, so thats how I registered my Power Cab. Hope that helps. Sorry can't help with your speed issues, but why not contact NCE and ask them?
  5. Excellent work Stephen. Kris, I think I can see why the STOP was used instead of a Give Way. Because immediately opposite this junction is a turning circle / bus stop which would necessitate an approaching motorist to ensure it was truly safe to continue rather than a quick visual check. A definate STOP would ensure time was given to the driver. My 5p worth, apologies if I'm mistaken.
  6. Hi Scott. As an ardent follower of Redbrook I will be very sorry not to see it again. I hope your financial situation improves very soon. Good Luck. Mike
  7. As expected, some excellent replies there, Thanks. I was dubious about getting a sound equipped loco, but was more concerned about ruining one of my existing fleet during a sound install. Looks like I made the wrong choice. We live and learn. Looks like a Howes re-blow of the decoder might be on the cards then. Once again thanks for the advice folks.
  8. Hi All. I've finally plucked up the courage, raided the piggy bank, and somewhat warily, handed over my hard-earned for my first sound-equipped loco, the Bachmann Class 37 37049 in BR blue. After ensuring the loco was responding to DCC command okay, and then being initially baffled by the lack of sound I re-read the instructions for the umpteenth time and realised that the sounds had to be "turned-on" using F1 ..doh!! Why don't they call it "start-up" or something similar? Anyway, as expected, the sound gives a whole new dimension to running a loco. However, I do have a few concerns.
  9. Been watching this on the "other" forum. Been one of my favourites from the off. Keep up the good work, and lets see how it's progressing please.
  10. Hi Andy. Can't help with your first question I'm afraid, but as for the Peco pits; they require a suitable hole cutting in the boards to allow them to "drop-in", the rails are them slid into the chairs that are moulded into the plastic of the pits themselves. The pack contains several short lengths of loose rails for this purpose, or alternatively you can slide-in a suitable continuous length of rail that you have cut to suit the length of your pits.
  11. Just read all the pages from the old site...amazing work. Is Sandhills and his layouts still active on the forum? Ooops, just realised sandhills IS still active and that I've been watching his work on the site for some time now...doh!!!
  12. This is not meant as an excuse to debate the "which is best", but I am seriously wanting to take the next step in DCC, and that for me is sound. I'm a modern (ish) image modeller, with a mix of Classes 08, 31, 37, 47, 59, 60 and 66's, some are old Hornby / Lima stock, and some are "DCC Ready" new stuff from Bachmann, Hornby and ViTrains, but all older stock are now converted (or in the process of being converted) to DCC. I have endeavoured to do the conversions on the older models using what I decribe as "fly leads" (8-pin sockets with loose leads) rather than cut the plugs off the chips. S
  13. Sorry for the delayed response, couldn't find the thread..doh!! Thanks everyone for the replies, seeing the coupling up-close explains it well (thanks for the links jo). Chris, I like your solution, and I might have a go at a "rescued" power car now for the TMD I'm building. Would be an excuse to buy / use a dummy power car and have it "dragged" into the depot for some urgent repairs!! Thanks once again everyone. Mike
  14. Quick question if I may. When you have loco's dragging failed HST's, what method do you use as a coupling? As far as I've been able to tell, most "OO" gauge HST motor units appear to have no visible couplings, and it has been a puzzle. Sorry if this is a "newbie" type of question.
  15. Hi Donny. That building / crane looks amazing. Do the doors open / close?
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