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CME and Bottlewasher

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  • Interests
    Down Ampney, Draycott Camp Halt Sidings (both 7mm FS) and The H&BLR (SM32)

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  1. Thanks. An excellent piece of advice! I'm sorry to hear that you learnt the hard way - that's often my 'MO' too. The stock rails are quite flimsy in that area, not fully held or supported by chairs. I will experiment with trimming the ends, without removing too much. My mind was on trimming down the stretcher/tie-bar in between the switch rails to make it more scale in appearance. I'm planning on using cobalt type point motors that latch. ATVB, with thanks, CME.
  2. Hi, Good advice, please excuse my ignorance but how would trimming down the stretcher/tie-bar affect the stock rail to switch rail height? As long as there is enough meat left in the stretcher/tie-bar and the slide-chairs are still in place - all should be well? Or have I missed something? Thanks. ATB, CME
  3. That's a reasonable compromise and one (similar) to the one that I'm considering for indoor point work.
  4. You're welcome, note extra photo and edited comments.
  5. Hi Sadly with the new RMW format it's hard to zoom in on the above photos with a mobile device. I'll assume that it's the newest version of Peco point, with the void for a micro switch? Planked top etc.? The front end has a plastic dowel in it and the rear has a lip that tucks under the imitation boltheads. You can ease the rear end by getting a finger nail under each side of the void where the tie/stretcher bar is and gently lifting - then the dummy planking will swivel around on the dowel/pivot. The dowel end can be eased out using a watchmaker's screwdriver -VERY carefully! Photos herewith, please excuse the quality. The view from the underside? If you look VERY carefully you'll see the plastic pivot/pin As far as I'm aware none of this is riveted in, only the stretcher/tie bar is. I hope that helps? ATVB, CME
  6. Hi Sadly with the new RMW format it's hard to zoom in on the above photos with a mobile device. I'll assume that it's the newest version of Peco point, with the void for a micro switch? Planked top etc.? The front end has a plastic dowel in it and the rear has a lip that tucks under the imitation boltheads. You can ease the rear end by getting a finger nail under each side of the void where the tie/stretcher bar is. The dowel end can be eased out using a watchmaker's screwdriver -VERY carefully! As far as I'm aware none of this is riveted in, only the stretcher/tie bar is. I hope that helps? ATVB, CME
  7. Which version/era of Peco point is it? Can you post a photo, or ping me a PM - I've taken most versions apart. ATB CME
  8. Nice mod on the stretcher bar. I've been modifying Peco points to varying degrees for outdoor and indoor aspects of the railway. There's too much flare on the check and wing rails etc and the V is wrongly positioned. Plus it's best practice to bolster and modify the wiring. And technically speaking the angled sleepers should be a straight timber. ATB CME
  9. States that the Link is broken, I'm sorry to report.
  10. It'll be worth it - and reliable too
  11. Dinghams are very neat, but on smaller, tighter layouts, haven't always been reliable in operation . It might be possible to overcome such issues though.
  12. Would Peco STD. 'Y' points be more helpful?
  13. Hardly noticeable on the Black 5/Tender loco, and just a tad on the Class31. I suspect weathering the roofs/ends etc would help 'loose' any differences?
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