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  1. Something like No More Nails, any of the modern type of adhesives, if its easy to position perhaps one of the miter bond types
  2. It is said Richard Branson started selling from a public telephone. And oak trees grow from small acorns. Many small model railway businesses work from home. Good luck
  3. Agree with everything except turnout timbers, with the improvements in thick plain track bases, initially with the Exactoscale fast track bases, then the new Peco bullhead 00 product and now the new C&L revised 00 gauge bullhead track, I can see no reason to use ply timbers, especially as the bond between chair and timber is not permanent. Exactoscale sell a superb turnout and crossing timber sprue 4FT PTC0 which sells at £2 and gives enough material to make up to 3 turnouts and crossings. The chair to timber bond is permanent and the material is the same as the flexi track If you model in either EM of P4 gauges you have an even better option which is preformed turnout and crossing bases (these may only be available from the Scalefour stores). These bases not only save time but stop the possibility of timbers with only slide chairs moving. Excellent product and very underrated and used
  4. Roy Are you talking about flexi track or turnouts and crossings? Thin flexi track is usually affected only when track pins distort it, thin timbers are affected by the action of solvent drying out and shrinking on one side only, certainly things like closed cell foam has insufficient strength to counteract it I also use Copydex to glue both underlay to baseboards and track to underlay
  5. May be an early LSWR coach buffer ? https://nsalzman5853.wordpress.com/2012/04/17/panelled-coaches/
  6. May be from that era as they came with some Center Models loco bodies, I think from what I remember K's never did white metal buffers like these (the early ones were turned brass) I have an old K's catalogue and the wagon/coach buffers were turned brass and the springs and axel boxes has a flat bar at the top to fit behind the solebar The length of both the springs and the buffer shanks look more coach like rather than wagon. The buffers also look to be early pre grouping. May be one of the early etched kit makers? More interested in what vehicle rather than kit maker
  7. Cut the whitemetal radial castings off the footplate and fit a pony truck providing you have the older style chassis. If its the newer etched chassis you would have to alter the rear etched frames to allow a pony truck to rotate
  8. If you are enjoying renovating the kit you could go further. As your loco is Southeastern Finecast do a Triang Hornby replacement chassis FC 202 (not the 200 which is for tank locos) this is easy to build, they also do a scale chassis now FC172 as they have revised the kit adding additional details including cab details (both chassis can be made so the motor does not intrude into the cab) Markit wheels are easy to fit, whilst a bit expensive. Scalelink do a cheaper version, the price of motors are coming down. If its a Triang chassis it unscrews, you could fit new spacers or cut them down so a better motor placement could be obtained and or change the wheels by either fitting brass bushes so 1/8th axles could be used or Markits sell special axles for Triang chassis I said about the new kit being revised, Southeastern Finecast are happy to sell replacement parts http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/Contents.htm
  9. That is what you have to do to overcome the issue. Glue both ends of each timber/sleeper down firmly when solvent is used on them Trouble is if you are using closed cell foam as an underlay this cannot be done. But the curling of thin plastic is something which has been recognized for ages
  10. I have like you have said some plastic turnouts for years with the only ill effect of the thin plastic timbers curling due to the solvent drying out. On the other hand I have had some chairs go brittle after a short while, which I was informed was due to the plastic being too hot during the injection molding process, If you don't trust plastic turnouts don't use plastic flexitrack . As for track cleaning products, be careful what you use
  11. If you are going back to the K&L days I assume you were using the thin plastic sleepers and timbers, if so a known problem is that as the solvent dries it shrinks and the plastic curls upwards and gauge narrowing occurs. This is prevented by using the thicker 1.6 mm sleepers and timbers
  12. Your assumption was the same I had when I first bought the item. it never crossed my mind to go online and read the instructions (I never had a hard copy of the EMGS manual and my new desk top has no CD rom) The instruction sheet shows both how to make the jig using their etch, then how to use it in conjunction with their wing rail gauge The etch is made from 0.4 mm thick brass sheet, its function is to hold the first V and wing rail upright whilst being soldered together Step 1 Place two PCB strips in the first two slots of the jig as shown and clamp the vee with its point on the second strip, Solder the vee to the two strips. Step 2 Add two further strips (the jig allows you to add a third if you require additional strength. However, this is generally unnecessary). Clamp one of the wing rails to the same side of the etch as the vee. Insert the flangeway gauge between the wing rail and vee and adjust the position of the wing rail until it is a snug fit against the gauge. This will give the correct spacing between the vee and wing rail. Solder the wing rail and vee to the four strips. (Note: the etch only gives a straight line from the vee to the wing rail. It is not used to give the correct flangeway spacing - this is the job of your chosen flangeway gauge Step 3 Remove the clips and lift the 'half crossing' from the jig. Rotate it and replace as shown. Step 4 Repeat step 2 with the second wing rail. You should now have something like this (below right) which only requires the PCB strips trimming off and the assembly cleaning up To all those who are not a member of the ENGS or P4 societies, Even if you do not model in EM gauge its well worth joining the society if you are going to build some turnouts and crossings 1/ Access to their manual, with excellent instructions in not only track building but other areas of railway modelling. Old dogs can learn new tricks !!! 2/ Access to the stores, buying Exactoscale parts at what is discounted member prices (plus access to many other railway modelling parts) 3/ Access to their jigs, so much better than filing by eye, and when you are finished they have a great resale value The fee for membership not only is great value for the above benefits but is soon recouped from the savings in buying discounted track parts
  13. James Building track can be a bit contentious, with everyone having their own favorite build methods and style of building. Some find it very difficult to build a common crossing as a sub assembly Others prefer soldering rail to copperclad timbers either so they can easily tweak the join or they just do not trust the joint to be able to maintain the gauge. In other words ease or fear I have proved you can build a turnout to p4 standards using a soldered together Vee and using the plastic chairs functionally. But each to their own and all that matters is getting to where you want to using the method that best suites you
  14. I think you are talking at cross purposes, the op was referring to either the Vee filing jig or the EMGS common crossing assembly jig (multi angle and gauge) You are referring to the wing rail gauge
  15. The benefit of using 0.5 mm double sided copperclad as risers, is that it self insulates (providing you do not use cast brass chairs
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