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  1. I dont mind the extra bit as it is still good value, in fact on lower value items its better value
  2. A trailing crossing formation is the latest item on the bench, to 00SF gauge A close up of the special switch chairs, the centre parts of the block chairs are visible. I find it easier to fit the straight stock and switch rails first.
  3. Snap !!. As a buyer I always leave feedback. However rarely do I check a sellers feedback when buying, if I do normally its when the item is overdue. Trouble is locally we have an issue with Royal Mail deliveries since routes were altered, possibly a dispute ? As a seller I leave feedback once the buyer has, simply as it lets me know its arrived and the buyer is happy. If the buyer cannot be bothered to leave feedback why should I If I buy on mail order usually I don't bother leaving feedback.
  4. I received an offer today, gone is the 80% reduction, now its 70% reduction (Inflation!!!)
  5. Why oh why are people paying so much for the kits I fancy ? I have either put in or planed to make generous offers, but its silly time on prices !!!
  6. Bill Thanks for the information/thoughts. Looking at the way Templot is going finding a commercial source who can print the chairs especially and the track bases will be very useful, these very cheap printers may ? be useful for the bases but are not good enough at the moment for chairs
  7. No I was not inferring that but people are very protective of their gauge of choice, ask Martin !!! Rather than building the track, you need to ask yourself if you are up to building everything to the required standard P4 requires I chose EM gauge for various reasons, firstly my skills with woodworking, then chassis building. But the biggest mover is cost, my kit built locos just need new axles, and many wagon and coach wheels can be gauge widened at no cost at all. Plus EM gauge is much more forgiving Again over time you can obtain wheels off eBay quite cheaply, and search second hand stands As for the fishplates Yes they are, the ones that come with the 3 bolt chairs are standard and reinforced. Phil sells these separately or his new 2 & 3 bolt sprues include them as well as bridge and J chairs https://www.clfinescale.co.uk/online-store/3-BOLT-CHAIRS-4MM-X-350-NEW-14-Chair-Sprue-plus-2-Fish-plates-10-Standard-chairs-2-L1-Chairs-2-S1J-Chairs-Rail-Joint-2-Fish-plates-p201475300
  8. These are the basics for an A5 turnout, 7 standard chair sprues @ 40p (£2.80) a sprue 12 slide chairs £1.02 Many have spare rail and 60 thou plasticard which can be cut into 4mm wide strips. With digital callipers you can use these or make your own gauges A posher version 50 standard chairs £2, 12 slide chairs £1.02 check chair sprue 85p, a fifth of a common crossing pack 40p and a few bridge chairs and fishplates Not really setting the world on fire if you add in the cost of rail and timbers Going the full hog (unless you want 8 Joint chairs) another £1 for half of the switch pack. I think most will know someone who can help out with the odd few sprues These prices can be reduced if you are lucky by keeping an eye out on second hand shelves or perhaps eBay By the way if using certain Exactoscale special chairs you will need the Chair position guides which are on the Exactoscale website https://exactoscale.com/track-components/chair-positions/
  9. I assume you are talking about on of Wayne's products, if so they are super and save a lot of work as the rails are supplied machined to the correct angles C&L do turnout packs for chairs and sleepers only. the chairs are standard and slide chairs, either 2,3 or 4 bolt versions (I would be cheeky and ask him to swap the sprues for new ones which also have bridge and Joint chairs and functionable plastic fishplates. You can also chose between thin or thick timbers either in plastic or ply. You will need to supply your own rail
  10. The easiest way to start a heated debate is to talk about gauges, a war nearly broke out a few years back when 00-SF was mentioned Anyway as far as track is concerned it is just as easy to build in P4 as EM gauge. Where the issue arises is in laying it flat on well made base boards. The next issue is can you build stock that will run well ? Building the track is not the issue its everything around it. EM gauge flanges are so forgiving when placed alongside P4. The question is can I build a layout to P4 standards that will work well ? Track building is a walk in the park and the easy step
  11. Yes it can be very painful if you go out and buy everything, I keep my eyes open always for gauges I (I have just bought a 2mm/N gauge set off eBay for £10.50 + postage. If you have a digital gauge you can use it or make your own basic one. Peco sell a very useful gauge for 00/EM/P4 (I have 4) IL 116 £3.54 As for timbers, the 0.8 can be trouble as when the solvent dries one side shrinks and if the timber/sleeper is not stuck down well enough it curls (these were designed to be compatible with ply & rivet turnouts). Use the 1.6mm ones which are thick enough to resist this. Why not use 60thou plasticard if you are building on a budget ? or even Ply but you need to use Butanone or MEK nor Mekpak Common crossing chairs are £2 but have 5 sets of varying sizes, but you can use standard chairs and wont really notice the difference except for the A chair (slab and bracket) but it replaces 40 standard chairs, With chairs at 4p each it off seta most of the cost Switch chairs are £2 for a pair (1 left hand & 1 Right hand), so its £1 a turnout. But the each turnout uses 4 outer and 4 inner half chairs. There are 24 outer half chairs and 16 inner half chairs You left off slide chairs, unless you are building slips you will not need M1 small chairs Check rail chairs are a different story (they are for P4 only but as you saw can be altered for EM or 00 gauge they are 85p a sprue but save using20 chairs (80p) L1 (bridge) chairs are a nice to have and vary in number from 4 to 10 depending on size. But C&L do not sell them in their packs, they advise splicing standard chairs Forget the jigs, yes they are expensive. I bet all the best track builders started off without any jigs. Just make stiff card formers Exactoscale do make the best plastic timbers 62 for £5, but with 12 extra long timbers and careful use you can get 3 medium turnouts from each pack. I will address the gauge issue in the next reply If anyone wants a go and costs are an issue PM me, like most track builders I have limited stocks but I could help the odd person out. But for most a pack of chairs and a pack of slide chairs will not break the bank. I remember going into Puffers and buying a SMP kit for a couple of £'s its a pity these are not readily available. I did make up a copperclad kit and offered it up (at parts cost) with pre-filed crossings and switch rails, no one took up the offer.
  12. I did not cover the tiebar very well, simply a bit of copperclad strip. It has an isolation gap cut in to its centre, I usually fill this with modelling filler and file flat. Simply solder the switch blades to it To ensure electrical continuity I fit bonding wire between the stock and switch rails on the rail bottoms As I have not soldered the common crossing together the rails need a bonding wire soldered across to make it all one electrical section A close up shot of the bonding wires, in and out quickly with a hot iron A simple to build turnout, needing a few common tools to build it, with no complicated processes. You will need a few gauges, but these can be home made As for costs, certainly for me using spares it was very little, using components it costed out at about £6 or £7, even if you used the special chairs I did once you worked out the savings in plain chairs, the cost is not much more than £1 extra. Probably being more detailed than what can be bought in any of the RTR ranges All I can say is have a go
  13. Buy your own printer, Martin on Templot has just bought one for £90 and has added a video link to a clip demonstrating it. I am really surprised there are no professional local alternative to Shapeways giving a cheaper service
  14. Once the curved stock rail has set the second wing rail can be fitted. Providing you have bent the rail correctly it falls easily into place I have used some spare bits on the part used sprues for block chairs for added detail, but if you don't have these just cut up some normal chairs, once these have been fittedyou can fit the second switch rail then finish off gluing the chairs on the curved stock rail. Slide chairs can be fitted The check rails can be fitted, I have used cut down check chairs, perfectly acceptable to fit normal chairs then just trim then so the rails fit at the correct distance from the common crossing Check rail gauges can be used A close up of the crossing showing all the tails are held in place with chairs Nearly completed with a copper clad tiebar and all chairs in place Next up the bonding rails
  15. A couple of thoughts are would a stiffer piece of wire help ? Stephen suggested having a hinged switch blade, I sometimes use this method using either an Exactoscale/C&L cast metal fishplate soldered to one rail or use a Peco insulated rail joiner Another thought is that the blades have soldered too far leaving a very short length not soldered. Or the joints to the tiebar are too tight A photo is well worth posting
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