Henrik Laurell

Promptly subscribed. I do like to see these grow! Henrik

Who makes these? I want to order a few to mess with during the holidays. Thanks Henrik

Continued with the powder van today. Now walls are up and only roof and details remains. See below; More pics on my site if you are interested. /Henrik

Visited my hobbyshop after work today. To my surprise the biggest size for L and U beams are 6.3mm. .. so i will have to make my own. Frame is made of beams which is 10mm in my scale. Henrik

Couldn't wait for the missing parts so I started assemble those I COULD assemble .. Henrik

So far, the silhouette curio only cuts through completely with 0.25mm plastikard, at least what I managed so far. This is it does with only one cut .. With 0.5mm it only scores, but with such quality that the result looks the same as when cut all through with 0.25mm. For this thickness I click in "double cut" to make this result. 0.5mm is my preferred thickness, sturdy enough in itself and good results. Easy to add 0.25mm layers if special details is needed. With 0.75mm and 1.0mm it does score, but with a tiny worse quality. The edges of snapped of pieces is easy to smooth of with one or two strokes with a fine sandpaper. "Double cut" is needed here to. Hardcard like pitza boxes card and kellogs box hardcard works as good as 0.25mm plastikard. I have no real interest in paper or hardcard since it turned out each material behave differently in the machine. My intention first was to use hardcard as a cheaper test material. Here I tried both with or without "double cut", depends a bit on the card. I am still only at my second weekend trying it out, so I am not sure I explored all possibilities just yet ... Henrik The machine now works so well for me that I started making parts for a Powder Van from RAR - Royal Arsenal Railway. Below shows almost all parts I need to assemble it. As always I do not have correct L and U angles at home, so can't assemble til later in the week when I visited my hobbyshop for more.

Tried to cut 1mm this evening with my Curio. Works the same as 0.75mm, no problem. No reason for me to go any thicker. Henrik

No I used the standard blade for 0.75mm, do not have the other blade yet. Thick art paper is no problem also the pitza box type works fine all through. I was also concerned about the thickness but now when I started testing I quickly found out the quality is so good that you can print several copies of the same drawing and then glue them together to get whatever thickness you need. Henrik

With my Curio 0.25mm cuts through and 0.75mm makes it possible to snap of the pieces. Haven't tried 0.5mm or thicker than 0.75mm yet but will asap. Henrik

Hi folks, I finally got my Curio yesterday and today I played with it for the first time. Unpack, install and get ready was easy but finding the right depth and pressure was a bit tricky. I did experiment with thick art paper first until it started working and then changed to 0.25mm plastikard which works great. I had some 0.75mm at home to so I tried that. Works great if one only need to snap the outer edges, but inner curves like windows wasn't easy. I guess 0.5mm is an ideal max thickness for plastikard in the Curio machine. A hole new world has opened up. I read this thread several times before, waiting for my machine to arrive. Now it is time to do it once more. Specially how to find the correct settings so one get a clean and precise cut is wanted. I am not really there yet. You who have the Cameo and Portrait, which thickness of Plastikard do you use ? If anyone interested, I put some pictures on my site at http://laurell.today/layouts/bmlr/2015/log150830.html Henrik

thanks for the info. yes I had followed this thread for a while and intend to continue doing so. In general hole this forum is great, don't know why I previously visited so seldom. looking forward to be able to contribute to this thread later on. Henrik

Hi folks, I decided to order the Curio when it becomes available. May I ask what kind of glue and styren sheets you buy and wherefrom ? Already asked over on NGRM but might reach more readers if asked on both sides .. Really looking forward to this. Drawing in 2D is a hole lot easier than 3D CAD, plus that with these machines we get the result right away. Also a bit more fun me thinks, we are still making parts and assemble them. 3D prints from shapeWays are most often complete finished with a price tag matching it .. Henrik