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I saw this episode. At the entrance to the buildings I could see various wagons plus a Tartan Arrow CCT. Inside there were rows of three hole wagon wheels and brake cylinders plus a 16 ton mineral wagon. I didn't know there was a wagon works at Stonebridge. There were also scenes with raised concrete railway fly overs or flying junctions which had strange undulating concrete underneath them. if they were also at Stonebridge could they be inclines leading to coal drops? Dave

Guy- Thanks. I only noticed the Lima coach! The Bachmann looks to be the same height as you say. Maybe the Bachmann mk1s are too high as I imagine that the Accurascale coach must be accurate by way of the manufacturer's name! Dave

I had a couple of Bachmann mk2s and the overall height of these was less than that of their mk1s making them look a bit odd when run together. Are these higher? Dave

The 47pf capacitor did the trick. No sparks at the commutator now. I bought a pack of ten for a fraction of the price of a single suppressor capacitor sold specifically for a loco motor on ebay. Dave

Thanks for all the replies. Dave

I am planning to use a ceramic capacitor rated at 47pf on my Lima motor bogie. Does that sound the right value? What is the difference between a ceramic and one of those silver oblong ones originally fitted? It is missing on mine. Thanks Dave

Have moved this to the Bachmann forum.

Thanks for your reply. Will have a look at your page. Yes the rods on mine also have the horizontal sag which doesn't look very prototypical. Does your conversion still allow the loco to negotiate the same radius curves? Dave

Thanks. Maybe replace the whole pin/ crank assembly. I am not sure if it is even the problem. There seems to be a lot of play in the rod joints although not much more than another one I have. Dave

I did post this in the drive systems forum. I tried to delete that one but coudn't. I have an early Bachmann O8 . It runs very smoothly slowly but at higher speeds not so well (I suppose higher speed is not strictly needed but was just testing it. I found that as the loco moves, the coupling rod on one side flicks back and forth along the length of the centre wheel crank pin ( looking from above). On close inspection the crank pin on one end wheel is not vertical compared with the surface of the crank/ balance weight or maybe the whole balance weight is off. Is this fixable? I notice on the Bachmann site that you have to buy the whole wheel set and cranks/ coupling rods. Thanks Dave

Thanks for that Pete. That's a good pic. Dave

I have an early Bachmann O8 . It runs very smoothly slowly but at higher speeds not so well (I suppose higher speed is not strictly needed but was just testing it. I found that as the loco moves, the coupling rod on one side flicks back and forth along the length of the centre wheel crank pin ( looking from above). On close inspection the crank pin on one end wheel is not vertical compared with the surface of the crank/ balance weight or maybe the whole balance weight is off. Is this fixable? I notice on the Bachmann site that you have to buy the whole wheel set and cranks/ coupling rods. Thanks Dave

Does anyone have any pictures of open wagons in which the loads are visible? There must have been quite a variety. The 50s, 60s and 70s are the decades I am interested in. I would like to have a go at modelling some. Thanks, Dave

That green version certainly looks very nice indeed and is the best looking livery . The blue one is how I remember the 31s, but I think that the locos are a bit too archaic looking for the later liveries which don't suit them at all. In fact, I think that that all the first generation locos look awful in the later liveries. Dave

I measured between commutator segments and the readings were just about equal. I took the magnet out and could lift it by touching it with a screwdriver and raising. Probably good enough? My other Lima locos run pretty well. They sit for just as long without use and are ok. There are strong neo magnets available on ebay for about £12 plus p&p but I am not convinced they would make a difference. I have just realised that there is no capacitor between the brush holders. Would this make difference to running as well as causing radio interference? Dave

Thanks for the reply. I have a multimeter with a continuity tester. Where shall I put the probes? One on a commutator segment and where would the other go? Thanks

I have a very slow running Lima DMU. I have done all the normal cleaning of the commutator, axles, wheels and gears and then relubing at the usual points. I have not had this problem on any other Lima bogie. Would a new magnet cure it? Thanks

I meant to post a pic of my Lima D1957 with the new yellow paint and smaller arrows. Here it is. I extended the yellow warning panel further round the sides and the smaller double arrows fit in properly. i also the front glazing from the moulding and moved them forward for a more flush glazed look like in the other 47 pic earlier in the thread. Dave

Talking of soft and hard bearings wearing. What happens is the harder surface wears more than the softer one funnily enough. This is because particles embed in the soft one and these then wear the hard surface. This happens in engines, anyway. Dave

I asked Bachmann if a new style body would fit on an old style chassis and they said no. I was wondering if they meant it was just not a straight swap and whether anyone had tried with some fettling? Thanks Dave

I used microstrip to form the cantrail on my similar conversion. The only trouble with this conversion is that the BG is too narrow for this coach. Should it not be the same width as other LMS passenger stock? The Comet Stove R I built is too wide and should be the width of the BG! Put me right if I am wrong. Dave

Thanks for the answers and pictures. Apapa was the only one I saw with this style of name that I can recall. Railtec do a sheet of unofficial class 40 names and there are several in this white style along with the other types so maybe some others got the treatment, too. Apapa in the style I am interested in wasn't on the sheet, however, so they made me up a custom pair. Without me saying the Steve got the name Apapa in exactly the right spot above the number like in the above photo from Jeremy C. Maybe I only need to use one! Dave

Does anyone have any photos of this style of unofficial name on class 40s? I would particulary like a pic of the number at the non radiator end. I have a pic I took in the late 70s of the Apapa name and number at the radiator end. I would like to see the other side because I am doing a model of Apapa but there is the bolted on plate that gets in the way of applying the letters if the name and number is applied in the postion shown in earlier 70s pics of just the plain number. Thanks Dave

Looking forward to seeing this loco. KR are producing some interesting models like the double deck unit. The GT3 was well received. Dave

Thanks for that, spamcan. Looks like stronger prescription reading glasses are the way to go.