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  • Location
    Faversham, Kent
  • Interests
    2mm FineScale, SECR, DBSR

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  1. The paper clips are far too stiff to reliably rub against the tyres. You should really use phosphor-bronze (P/B) wire or very narrow strips - much better elasticity and less prone to collect dirt from the tracks. You won't find many chassis using pickups in 2mm finescale as these are made redundant by the split-chassis design; you should probably look for help with this issue in the "Modelling Questions, Help and Tips" forum.
  2. Two SG90 servomotors controlled by an Arduino UNO board. The actuator wire will be installed horizontally, in line with the wire / omega loop connected to the tie-bar. Together with the 'straight' and 'divergent' angles, the speed can be also adjusted. The four push-buttons have integrated green LEDs. Link to the video clip (approx. 35 seconds)
  3. I doubt it. I needed it just for an accurate drawing. In real life I would use the gear meshing tool.
  4. The Gear Data Tables in the Yearbook state that 0.1 mm running clearance should be added to the theoretical M0.3 gear centres and 0.15 mm for the M0.4 gears. Is it correct to assume that 0.05 mm should be added for M0.2 gears?
  5. The wheels are Märklin and, together with the gear, are fitted to 1.2mm dia axles (pictured below). The project involves narrowing the gauge, from 6.5mm to 5mm, which leaves the axles protruding around 0.5mm at each end (the P/B outside frames alone are 0.7mm thick). The plan is to use a "gear puller" tool, and remove the wheels and the gears from the axles, replacing them with longer ones so they can pass through the frames and allow enough length to solder the cranks. I could also rim the wheels and the gears and fit them to 1.5mm dia steel rod ("Eileen's" don't sell 1.2mm dia steel rod.
  6. Would be possible to use the Brass Straight Wire 1.2mm dia (Eileen's Emporium) as wheel axles? they will spin in P/B frames. Is this wire tough enough to not easily bend? I could go for steel rod but I would like to solder the N/S cranks at the ends of the axles; I am not sure I can do a sound join between N/S and steel.
  7. What sort of baseboard is that?...
  8. In the August 1984 edition of "The 2mm Magazine", @Phil Copleston wrote the "Narrowing it down" article, describing what might be the 2mm Narrow Gauge standards with normalised gauges, a potential benefit being the batch production of precise building aids, such as roller gauges and back to back gauges. I know that these are now ready available for the prototype metre gauge (normalised 2mm gauge of 6.5mm) but what about for the other prototype narrow gauges? I am interested in 2'6" prototype (or 5mm scale equivalent).
  9. Hello Max, I am a fan of the American couplings; I use the Micro-Trains Line Z coupling for my Nn3 models. If I was you I would try to keep the existing ones on your model as they are representing better the real knuckle couplers. I'm afraid I couldn't advise you on any "Toy Like" couplings but please note that you may be asking the questions in the wrong section of the forum. This is the 2mm Fine Scale area of the forum - although near to the commercial N scale there are big differences. I'd say the best place to get answers would be the "Modifying & Detailing RTR stock" section of RMweb. Good luck,
  10. Thank you all for your feedback. I will leave it for longer than a day as we're going on holiday for a couple of weeks. Once we're back home I will start the "troubleshooting" with your suggestions.
  11. My kit-built Class C runs very bad when going forward. I scratch-built a new chassis for the tender, quartering is perfect (the chassis runs smoothly under it's own weight on a slightly tilted board). Without load the motor runs "round". The motor is the cheap "Graham Farish Clone" (eBay). Forward Backward In both video clips the "speed" setting on the Medvend controller is exactly the same. Any advice will be appreciated. After many hours of frustration, I am considering to use this tool to fix all the issues:
  12. You are right, Chris but being my first attempt to build a solid brass chassis, I thought that building one for a tender must be easier than building the chassis for a locomotive. I would be happy if I can finish this project and even more happier if The locomotive will pull two, maxim three wagons.
  13. After building half a dozen of split replacement chassis for RTR models or old brass kits, I "attacked" my first Worsley Works scratch-aid kit: a tender locomotive (SER Class O). The plan is to use all the parts for the locomotive and tender bodies and replace the chassis with scratch-built chassis made of milled solid brass (see the photos below). To separate the block from the strip 50 thou Plastikard was employed. The strip fitted to the block by 1/8" 12 BA steel countersunk screws; there are nylon (Acetal) plugs fitted into the block, tapped with 12 BA threads as it shows in this post. As others have mentioned, there are some parts missing from the fret (like tender springs in my case), and some spare parts (like two coal bunker doors - I am not going to use any as this will be in the UJ's path.
  14. A Stirling Class O tender: Ignore the front beam overlay - it came of so many times during the construction, I won't tackle it until I finish all the soldering on the tender's body. Otherwise, I am very pleased with the model so far - as usual, the real thing looks better than it shows in the photographs. The chassis is solid brass:
  15. Could anyone help in identifying the the two identical components marked with an asterisk in the photographs below (front and back view of the etch)? They are part of an Worsley Works scratch-aid kit for a SER Class O engine.
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