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Valentin

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  • Location
    Faversham, Kent
  • Interests
    2mm FineScale, SECR, DBSR

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  1. With a 0.5mm drill I made sure the crank-pin holes in the wheels are clear of any debris. With a cut 4 file I dressed the flanged crank-pin ends. The crank-pins are very tight fit into the holes in the wheels. It looked like there was no need for any additional glue, nor soldering. Just to be sure, I used the above-mentioned threadlock. To test the bond, I put some effort (much more than what would be in normal use) trying to remove a pin - it didn't come off, so I assume there is no need to solder them in place. Regarding the rough look of the spokes, do the wheels need any additional treatment? After the glue (EVO-STICK "Serious Glue") used to stick the counter-weights cures, I will scrub the wheels using Cif, but I don't think that would be enough to get a smoother look.
  2. I have been using this approach to fit the crankpins since I first watched Nick Mitchell's excellent videos on the Jubilee, three years ago. Not finishing any model, that's another story
  3. According to the manufacturer, this is "a medium strength blue threadlocking adhesive that seals and secures metal nuts and bolts to prevent loosening due to shock and vibration." I wonder if the threadlocker I already have will work. It is blue, after all Anyway, I will try it, and post back the results.
  4. Will I be able to solder the crank pins to the mark 5 wheels in the same fashion as we’re doing with the Mark 4 wheels? Or better to use Super Glue to secure the crack pins in place?
  5. After an hour of work in putting the bits together and less than £30, I assembled a DCC++ Wi-Fi Command Station.
  6. Thank you all for your kind words and encouragement. As I said it before, I have no intention in giving up 2mm modelling. Since I joined the Association 10 year ago, I had far too many attempts in getting a working etched N/S chassis. Apart from the "Fence Houses Model Foundry" 0-6-0 'Universal' chassis which sits under the Class C Nick mentioned, I failed with the others. I enjoy much more trying to scratch build a solid brass milled chassis - the first results are encouraging. As a bonus, the brass bars and P/B strips are much cheaper than the etched N/S or brass chassis kits. I am repeating myself, just to be clear: I DO NOT criticise in any way the work of those who are making the etched N/S chassis available, they are just not for me. PS: the L&Y chassis has found a new home now.
  7. Do we have a "For Sale" thread? If so, please point it to me and I will move this post over there. If anyone is interested in a partly assembled N/S etched replacement chassis designed by Nigel Hunt to fit the L&Y/LMS/BR Aspinall 0-6-0T white metal body from GEM / Lytchett Manor, please send me a private message. The two BA12 nuts mentioned in the instructions are soldered to the motor mount. The chassis, the coupling rods and the wheel are painted black. The frames are completely isolated from each other and from the spacers (on 200Mohms scale, the multimiter shows infinite resistance). I wanted to build this kit to get "hands-on" experience in using the etched N/S spacers together with very thin double-sided PCB. I manged to put the gears and the rear driving wheels in place, but I wasn't happy with the result so I gave up before ruining the chassis (I am very good with this). As I mentioned a couple of times before, these etched N/S kits are not for me! Everything in the pictures below, plus the acetal whorm, for £20.00 + P&P (approx. £3.00 if using Hermes). Included: the six 9mm Mk4 driving wheels to which I have already soldered the counter-weights (the crank pin is broken on one wheel) the two muffs - one 3-102a and one 3-102b Gearset: 100DP: 30:1 Skew Brass Gear 1/8" Bore: Acetal Worm 1.5mm Bore; this may be 3-367, but I may be wrong (the worm wheel has 30 teeth, though) Spur Gear Brass M0.3 14T 3.0mm bore 3-390 Spur Gear Brass M0.3 25T 3.0mm bore 3-395 Maybe a more experienced modeller can get something usefull from these bits.
  8. In order for a 0-6-0 chassis to negotiate tight radii curves, it is recommended to file the middle P/B bearings flush with the N/S frames. But, what if the driving gear is fitted to the middle muff? Shall I still file the middle bearings, or choose another pair of bearings (front or rear)?
  9. False alarm! Apparently, not having Weetabix for breakfast does negatively impacts one's strength.
  10. Yes, I did it as explained in the instructions: How you should use ER Collets Inspecting the inside of our ER collet nuts reveals an internal flange that has been machined eccentric to the main axis of the nut. This is not a machining error but is designed that way to lock onto the groove of the collet and aid its release from the chuck body. For this feature to work properly, the collet must be mounted in the nut first before fitting the assembly into the chuck body. To mount the collet in the nut, insert it on an angle, turn slightly and push it into the nut until it clicks into place on the eccentric flange. The cutter may now be fitted and the assembly tightened hard into the chuck body. To remove the cutter, slacken and undo the nut until resistance is felt. Then, using a collet wrench, further undo the nut until the collet is released from the chuck body. Removal of the collet from the nut is the reverse of the mounting procedure. Could be a compatibility issue? ER11 mod from Isovo is not compatible with the ER11 collets from ArcEuroTrade?
  11. Thanks, Julia, it was easy to remove the bearings. It seems I need to purchase a pair of 17mm spanners to tight the collet. I tried by hand but I couldn't get the nut nowhere near enough to even slightly grip a 1.5mm drill bit in the 1-1.5 ER11 collet. Is this expected?
  12. I have removed the old shaft - 60 in the picture below - from the milling machine, but the "bushing" (or "distance piece" as it is named in the Usovo instructions) - 104 in the picture below - remained captive between the two bearings - 103 in picture below. I would leave them as they are and insert the new tuning spindle but, as you can see, one of the bearings is already fitted to the new shaft and I am worried I may break something. How shall I remove the old bearings and the spacer from the milling machine's body?
  13. I would avoid coiled rail - I don't know about code 40, but code 30 it's not prototypical (not flat bottom, nor bullhead) and it's a pain to straighten it. I used only code 30 for a narrow-gauge track and I straighten it using Mark Fielder's jig.
  14. I can't believe something good came out of Brexit! This is a first for me. No import duty fees, nor Post Office charges! Exactly two weeks after placing my order with USOVO, the postman dropped the parcel on my doorstep. Is it luck, or will this be the norm for imports from EU?
  15. There is a drawing at pages 30 and 31 in the "Davington Light Railway" book (2nd edition). The dimensions on the drawing are mostly illegible. Does anyone know of a better quality / higher resolution drawing?
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