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Valentin

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  • Location
    Faversham, Kent
  • Interests
    2mm FineScale, SECR, DBSR

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  1. Hello Klaus, I am afraid I am far from being such a good modeller to have any moving parts on a Shay in the 2mm scale. Apart from the PowerMAX motor and the wheels, the only moving parts are the bogies. The 70° low-melt solder I purchased from Carr's many years ago. It's similar to this one, only it's not a wire, but a bar. It's not brittle at all, I use it by cutting with a scalpel small bits which I then attach to the joint with tweezers before soldering. As for glueing parts together with CA... I never had any success - I admire those who can put kits together by gluing them. My advantage is probably that I've been using a soldering iron sice I was 8.
  2. Every component (mostly white metal and brass, but also a small N/S bit) on this little Shay was put together using low-melt solder (70 C).
  3. Hi Michael, Yes, I did think about this, but, to be able to roll the metal sheet around the 4.5mm shaft I would need a somewhat soft metal, and, because of that, the screw in the coupling used to secure it to the shaft will create a small depression, a dimple, in the sheet; this may lead to axis not being concentric? I may be wrong though... Since I posted my message, I managed to have the couplings adjusted, but I still have to give them a try... I'll post how it goes. Valentin
  4. Hello, I've been trying to convert my Proxxon MF70 mill to CNC for a while. Three of the most important components are the flexible shaft couplings - they connect the stepper motors shaft (5mm in diameter) to the lead screw shaft (4.5mm in diameter). Unfortunately, I couldn't find 5mm-to-4.5mm couplings so I purchased 5mm-to-4mm couplings, hoping I would be able to easily open the 4mm hole to 4.5mm hole using a 4.5mm drill. How wrong I was! I tried spinning the drill by hand, in a drill, but every time the result was disappointing: the 4.5mm hole was not concentric with the 5mm hole. I think a lathe will be most useful to achieve the best result, but I don't own one. I tried to contact the nearest model engineering society (Canterbury & District Model Engineering Society), but I haven't got e reply in over two weeks. Does anyone know if there are any "lathe-on-demand" service providers in Kent who could help?
  5. Hello, Is anyone interested in a Push-Pull (SR ?), etched brass kit? I got it from Andrew Cox for a tenner, about 10 years ago.
  6. Thank you, Bob. I will adjust my design to let only the middle axle to drop a bit (0.1 - 0.15mm). Nick, if everything goes according to the plan, you will definitely have a set of frames and the solid brass chassis sandwiched in between the frames. Currently I am waiting for new stepper motor drivers, which can supply more "oomph" than the ones I started with. And I am still learning about CAM in Fusion 360.
  7. I am designing the frames for a chassis I want to test-build. I want to use 0.7mm P/B sheet for the frames and 6mm brass sheet for the inner chassis. Both, the frames and the chassis will be built using a CNC milling machine. I have finished the design for the frames (drawings below). The dotted lines are construction lines. I have two questions: Are three 14BA countersunk bolts overkill? Will two bolts be enough? I would use 12BA (or even 10BA) but I can't find sleeves for them. I know I could use epoxy or nylon plugs but I am not sure I could set the milled brass chassis with enough precision after fitting the plugs. Shall I repeat the slot I used for the middle drive-wheel for the front wheel? There is 0.12mm up-down play.
  8. Tomorrow I will be all day in Bristol, so easy to go to Bath, then going back home (Faversham, Kent). I have no use for a second MF70, but if any buyer on my route is interested, I could be the a free of charge "courier". @oily If you still have the boxes for all the kit, Royal Mail now have a collection service, so you can send the machine to the buyer much easier. Also, I am happy to collect it and send it by courier on Saturday.
  9. Hi Julia, Any chance to get these pictures back? I would like to convert my MF70 to CNC, but I must first reduce the backlash as much as possible - any other information related to the specs of the nuts will be greatly appreciated.
  10. It's a shame that those without a Photobucket account cannot enjoy watching the pictures at a higher resolution...
  11. Another vote for Hakko HAKKO FX-888D. I've been using a soldering tool or another (irons, guns) since I was 8 years old. Nothing compares to Hakko, apart from the Pace I briefly used when I was working for a former employer - these are from another league, though...
  12. I'm looking forward to seeing "Modbury", 'in the flesh', for the first time.
  13. With a 0.5mm drill I made sure the crank-pin holes in the wheels are clear of any debris. With a cut 4 file I dressed the flanged crank-pin ends. The crank-pins are very tight fit into the holes in the wheels. It looked like there was no need for any additional glue, nor soldering. Just to be sure, I used the above-mentioned threadlock. To test the bond, I put some effort (much more than what would be in normal use) trying to remove a pin - it didn't come off, so I assume there is no need to solder them in place. Regarding the rough look of the spokes, do the wheels need any additional treatment? After the glue (EVO-STICK "Serious Glue") used to stick the counter-weights cures, I will scrub the wheels using Cif, but I don't think that would be enough to get a smoother look.
  14. I have been using this approach to fit the crankpins since I first watched Nick Mitchell's excellent videos on the Jubilee, three years ago. Not finishing any model, that's another story
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