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Valentin

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  • Location
    Faversham, Kent
  • Interests
    2mm FineScale, SECR, DBSR

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  1. I couldn't believe how resilient this stretcher bar is. It was greatly stressed while I was trying to fit / unfit (more than once) the wire-in-tube TOU. And the adjustments are very easy to make. Although one of the blades came off, it took a minute to solder it back. I used 188°C solder to join the brass pins to the scarp N/S plates, and low-melt solder (70°C) to join the blades to the N/S plates. The stretcher bar is a strip of 0.4 mm fibre-glass PCB. When operating the turnout, I noticed the blades swivelling around the stretcher bar - I can only imagine how stressed a solid joint would be.
  2. This works so well, it made me get another three coils of code 30 plain rail. I use a cork instead of the eraser.
  3. Not on my workbench, but new "housing" for my workbench (work in progress):
  4. I get 9% phosphoric acid from stands at railway modelling exhibitions. Around £3.00 for a 100 ml bottle.
  5. Thank you, Jim. After a bit of work I came up with this, which gives me an overall reduction ratio of 52:1. I could go with a 40 teeth secondary gear (instead of 38) which would give a 55:1 but I would really struggle to fit the motor and the clearance between the gear and the side frames would be very tight. Not sure if, and when, this is going to materialize; for the moment, on my "workbench" are ten lengths of 45 x 145 x 3000 mm timbers for the next stage of the garage conversion. Hopefully I will finish it in time to be able to do more work on my GJLC entry...
  6. The end elevation shows that I can increase the overall reduction ratio.
  7. I wouldn't hold my breath, Keith. I remember you emailed me that photo a while back; it's a shame the engine didn't meet the line's expectations. They're still in production, hauling logs from the forests in Romania. And also on some heritage railways.
  8. Encouraged by Julia's 4mm-gauge diesel engine, I am planing to build a 5mm-gauge steam engine (see the drawing below). The current overall reduction ratio is about 26:1 but, I would like to increase it as there is space for a larger than 30 teeth (O/D 6.4) idler and a smaller than 16 teeth (O/D 3.6mm) driving gears. Could anyone advise on how far I can go? There is enough room in the boiler to fit a 12 teeth driving gear and a 40 teeth idler to achieve a 47:1 overall reduction ratio. I am not sure if this would be practically possible though. Another question is about the gear material; I am thinking of brass but Mikroantriebe can supply then in black polyacetal or white polyacetal. Apart from being less noisier than brass, is there any other advantage in using polyacetal (black or white)?
  9. I will do an end elevation anyway, but this may also work. I am thinking of a 7x15mm Tramfabriek motor with shafts at both ends so I can fit a flywheel.
  10. Thanks for the feedback, Jim. It's narrow gauge (2'6"):
  11. That, Jim, was my first thought when trying to change the overall reduction. Here we are: And I tried even this: Or this, with pulleys, although a have to increase the spacing to about 6 mm as the smallest belt is about 4.5 mm inner diameter.
  12. I forgot to mention that this is not a "split-chassis" design, so no muffs - the brass gears are soldered directly to the steel axles. All axles are 1.5 mm in diameter apart from the one supporting the worm gear which is 2 mm. The reduction is 16.5:1 and the wheels are 5 mm in diameter. I came up with another arrangement, which gives an overall reduction of just over 26:1. I'm not sure if this is a better design though. Another option to further increase the overall reduction would be to use pulleys.
  13. Your work gave me confidence that I may be able to achieve something similar with my little engine although in a slightly bigger track gauge (5 mm). The rear two axles will drive the front two by coupling rods. I wonder if this is feasible.
  14. Hi Max, Please don't get me wrong but I think you keep asking these questions in the wrong section of the RMWeb forum. I am sure there are some finescale modellers here who may be able to help, but you could get much more feedback to your enquiries if you post them elsewhere. For instance, RMWeb hosts a Collectable/Vintage section, or maybe the Modelling Questions, Help and Tips one? Best regards,
  15. Hi Max, Please don't get me wrong but I think you keep asking these questions in the wrong section of the RMWeb forum. I am sure there are some finescale modellers here who may be able to help you, but you could get much more feedback to your enquiries if you post them elsewhere. For instance, RMWeb hosts a Collectable/Vintage section, or maybe the Modelling Questions, Help and Tips one? Best regards,
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