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dpgibbons

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  1. Good idea. See eg the Forced Perspective tutorial here
  2. Indeed, that's what I used - although it's not quite so accurate on the smaller scale map available on NLOS, so Anthony's method may give better results in this case.
  3. I have brush-painted Railmatch acrylic straight out of the jar on top of auto shop etch primer and found the results disappointing. The paint appears to dry almost instantly rather than self-levelling, and I get a rather lumpy finish that readily flakes off despite 3 coats. I'm wondering if I should be using thinner and/or retardant. Any suggestions please?
  4. FYI, 88D Models will have a 7mm kit out shortly - see here
  5. The 1:2500 (25ins/mile) Ordnance Survey maps available at NLOS here are large scale enough to provide building ground dimensions. The largest scale they have available for Penmaenmawr is only 6ins/mile (below) but that may be good enough (attached) - the dimension in blue is 79m. If it isn't, you could take out a 1 month subscription for GBP10 at https://www.old-maps.co.uk/ and screenshot their 1:2500 maps for the entire area that you are modelling. I hear us SEQ locals might be getting a visit to your layout soon - I look forward to it!
  6. Two months on and it's ready to paint. I sourced replacement buffers from NMRS Models and transfers from the HMRS GWR Wagons sheet. I'm still wondering about the livery though - brown or black under the well sides? None of the reference works make it clear.
  7. My LRM RSU was supplied at my request with the arrangement you describe, so that I could use a standard female PC mains lead with an Aussie plug.
  8. The Slaters PO wagon kits are a much easier build and a good place to start. The only real challenge is getting everything square and figuring out a few gaps in the instructions.
  9. I'm building a Slaters GWR 4W coach kit with sides pre-painted in the elaborate lined pre-1902 livery. These cost GBP60 more than the unpainted versions, but you would pay several times that for a professional job of such quality. Simpler liveries are a more realistic DIY option. These are definitely not beginners kits, as they have many fragile etched brass chassis parts and require some soldering, sheet cutting and tricky brass folding. I worked my way through a few plastic and brass wagons first.
  10. There are numerous YouTube videos about doing this using flux, such as this one
  11. I've had a similar experience. My impressions is that Osborn's are selling online without a reliable real-time stock system, so allowing orders for items that aren't in stock - a recipe for extra workload on staff and disappointed customers.
  12. You'll find a laser-cut kit, such as the one below, a much better solution that a 3D print. Note that the track is inset into the base so that you don't need to lower the baseboard to match rail heights, and it has gates at each end and a removable roof to hold stock in place on the rails and to prevent it rolling out. https://yorkmodelrail.com/shop/tools-and-storage/mls052-storage-n-gauge-cassette/
  13. Sounds like you had a lot of resistance in your RSU circuit. In that respect a baseplate is much better than clips, although you then need to offset the heatsink effects with insulating measures like the use of paper as mentioned above.
  14. I assume you are looking for a laser-cut design, in which case you'll need a 2D vector-based file format such as svg or dxf.
  15. Ian is one of the top professional model painters, and I'd highly recommend his book (A Modellers Handbook of Painting and Lining - Wild Swan). He summarises the topic in a lengthy YouTube tutorial here, starting about 1hr 31 after a more basic painting tutorial by Tony Wright.
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