dpgibbons

Corfe Castle (if ruins count)

Impressive.

Small locos are the best commercial prospect, especially in a scale that is heavily geared to small layouts. So a small tank engine is a good bet and a tender engine would be a surprise. I'd add the LSWR B4 to the list of candidates as it's already in their OO range.

Acetone (dry cleaning fluid) and many other gaseous solvents are heavier than air and will accumulate in low places, posing a danger of toxicity and even explosion.

Apologies - it was SirBud's document I was addressing

Piemanlarger - thanks for the tutorial. Is there a reason why you didn't just space the aluminium angles a suitable distance apart and use them as rails? Non anodised (aka mill finish) aluminium is a good conductor.

BR 1950 Rule Book, Rule 138 - "Each train is under the control of the Guard, who must give the Driver any instructions necessary to the working of it".

What costs two grand today will cost two hundred soon enough. Clearly CAD is the future of this hobby.

You are describing O-MF turnouts, which Greenwood also supply, with the crossing vees having finer clearances. The Scale7 Group shop (members only) has a range of O-MF gauges and jigs, although it seems have supply issues at present.

Not long ago you were happy with Peco, so I think you're making rapid progress.

I believe C&L sell the Ambis stretchers, but good luck finding them on their website. MM1 also sell 7mm stretchers here which are less authentic but more robust.

The webbing is not designed to be cut off, as it's almost invisible once ballasted, especially in an engine shed environment where the ballast is very fine and often covers the sleeper tops. If you do remove the webbing you will likely find that some sleepers will come loose, because butanone gives a poor bond between chair and rail. Best to experiment with a trial section and see if it's worth the hassle. Attaching the tiebar to a pinhead is unlikely to give you a robust joint, so better to go with plan B. Or investigate more authentic 7mm stretcher bars, such as these.

Instructions can be downloaded here

Ken - I greatly enjoy your thread. As one of the most capable and prolific 7mm loco builders, it would be a particular service to those of us less gifted if you could comment on quality/instructions/ease of assembly etc for each kit you build. Perhaps you might even adopt Raymond Walley's grading system.

Masking tape will assist both marking out and drilling.