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Barnaby

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  1. I need to study read this magnetic traverser as I'm mulling ideas about one for my build.  Mine will only be a 2 or 3 track shelf but I may want to make it a rotating traverser so I want it to move back and forth on the layout but also rotate end over end too.

     

    It's a classy build though, well done.

     

    Best

  2. An interesting read Dave showing some very neatly and expertly modelled work.

    I like the point actuation and the pcb tie bar I may do that on my Peco points but they are all laid now.   I'm also thinking of allowing some of my fiddle yard to be on view as after all most times we go look see at it anyway.

    What I'm hoping to do is park up on view in the fiddle yard then pinching your idea of a tea / coffee mug shelf to hide my hand while I swap locos about.

     

    So far the scribble pad thoughts are suggesting I will need two lines connecting to a point or a two line traverser with a loco release extension on the shelf but I need to play further.

     

    Regards

    • Thanks 1
  3. Nicely put together Johnathan.  I like the cookery style lesson for mixing the "ballast ingredients", 3, 2, 1 job done.

    I will be using a very similar paint method when I come to my track but will be giving it an unifying light dust with a dirty grey colour to tone the sleeper grime and rail side rust colours down.   I too have done a test piece of track  

     

    Marked the Blog up to follow.

     

    Best

  4. Hello

    Not much done recently, plan now finished loose lay down of track to plan.
    Then did some test lays of track/ballast using your Das method but using copydex 100% to hold the track then paint with ballast on top. Also tried a foam break under track using copydex 100% but thought this a waste of time.
    From these test I've decided to do this:>


    1.Lay track directly onto baseboard in 100% copydex
    2.Pour ballast onto track shake/brush into place
    3.Use copydex mix of 30% to 70% water with a splash of meths to break surface tension added through a pipette
    4.Paint up
    5.In areas of hard standing use Das smoothed flat for cement and press a brass tube suitably ovaled into it for cobbled areas.
    6.As 4

    I've done a trial hole drilling through the copydex and if a pre "X" is cut with a knife where the hole is to be drilled this ensures it dosen't wind a line of latex up around the drill bit..

    Thanks to Martin Wynne of Templot, 0-6-0 Hunslet and 85A models fame for that tip. http://www.templot.com/

    Waiting for some rail joiners from C&L [exactoscale] both plastic and brass types so I can begin in ernest track laying..

    Slow but progress



    Regards

  5. Now that spring is here and the juices are stiring I think I'll be making a big push.

    I'll try and keep this updated as I go.

     

    It's my intention that it will be mainly a goods depo with plenty of shunting, quite a bit of grime and with as many hidden load changes as I can manage.

     

    That may mean some of my drawn plan loads might get changed for some thing else.

     

    Regards

  6. Looking good Ian.

     

    I've got some areas that will require DAS applying but I was just going to put down the DAS directly.

     

    Have you stuck down the "HARDCORE" then applied the DAS over the top and is the reason for the "HARDCORE" only to reduce the amount of DAS required?

     

    Thanks 

    EDIT I just Read your other blog entry saying YOU DID STICK DOWN THE HARDCORE.

    I must get up tp speed with reading these Blogs correctly.

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