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Jamiel last won the day on May 27 2016

Jamiel had the most liked content!

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    Model Railways, American Football, Cricket, Film and TV, being a dad.

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  1. Craftsman Models OO Gauge S.R 'Lord Nelson' 4-6-0 kit Not seen a full steam engine kit from ctafsman on there before. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRAFTSMAN-MODELS-OO-GAUGE-S-R-LORD-NELSON-4-6-0-KIT/323754380823?hash=item4b6143ce17:g:OCUAAOSwey5cmjRM Jamie
  2. I agree with Pat B that the post office does sound like a rather an odd scale building. Here are some photos and (rough) measurements of the floors. This is the Walthers Cornerstone ‘Argossy Bookstore’ (x2) I used for the Weaver’s Department store pictured above. HO scale. I did scratch build the centre section that joins the two kits and gave it quite a generous entrance, based on photos of Dean Street in Manchester shops. This is a Kibri Cornerhouse kit, again HO, but I put in an extension in above the ground floor where the shop signs go. The upper floors are quite low. Here is that building next to a scratch built station building, only the 1st and 2nd floors are visible as the ground floor is below at platform level. The station is accessed from a bridge. From the same Kibri kit, but with cast off sections and a scratch built (or rather to be built) ground floor. Another Walthers Cornerstone kit, this was built for a US layout on a film set, but I grabbed I once filming was finished and this will be anglicised with roofs and details added. I do feel a bit guilty recommending the Walthers kits, but the Post Office does seem rather tight on the floor heights. I would be tempted to add a stone course at street level, raising the height of the ground floor windows. I would scratch build the entrance from plasticard and strip, possibly buy an etched or plastic moulded door for the main doors. I tend to not worry about the floor height away from ground level, some buildings have low ceilings on higher floors, although more 3rd, 4th and roof floors rather than the 1st. Having different height buildings and floors side by side doesn’t worry me too much. It shows on the ground floor as you often have people stood outside. You could cut the building and add in a strip at the top of the ground floor as I did with the newsagent building. It might also depend on where you place the building, if it is at the back like on 31A’s Finisbury layout the scale may not be apparent, next to 4mm buildings it may look small without alterations. I do hope your build works out OK. Jamie
  3. Thank you for such a detailed answer, and I quite understand that posting a detailed list is not a good idea in such a public place. You also make me feel a lot better about how many locos I have even if it is not as many as your collection. You do run a very accurate timetable, so the need for your stock is understandable. Thank you again for sharing your wonderful layout with everyone here. Jamie
  4. A quick question, have you ever posted a stock list? I would be particularly interested to know which locos are kits, which are RTR (makes and if and how they have been modified). I am sure that the carriages would also make for a very interesting read. I quite understand if you prefer not to post something like this for security reasons, also if such a list doesn’t exist, I would quite understand it being a pain to sit down and type it all out. My apologies of I have missed this in a past post. Thank you posting so many updates and photographs, seeing a layout like yours is such an inspiration. Jamie
  5. I think that looks like an excellent building to use. I haven’t had any issues using HO buildings on my 4mm layout. I even mix brick types and scales and unless you get close and look out for that it isn’t noticeable. With a stone building you would avoid that problem. With some buildings I have extended the ground floor height, but I didn’t in the one pictured above (from two Walthers book stores) as it has high shop windows anyway. With the post office you could just add to the stone ground course without having to touch the windows, but my gut feeling is the grund floor height would not show. As the post office is already a large building in HO, I think the size of it, as opposed to the scale would also help make it fit a 4mm layout The one thing with that building that does not appeal to me is the one story raised section on top of the roof, that doesn’t feel like it is from the UK. You could always use it as a building behind the main one. You might want to add a pitched roof, or perhaps just leave it plain. This is probably just my personal taste, or prejudice, it may work fine for you. In Leeds there are a couple of buildings together with both flat and pitched roofs on that style of building, where Regent Street goes under the A64 – I hope this link works. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Leeds/@53.8014451,-1.5344233,126a,35y,164.03h,45t/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x48793e4ada64bd99:0x51adbafd0213dca9!8m2!3d53.8007554!4d-1.5490774 I might also be tempted to remove the low awning above the main door, and perhaps add some detail of you own, even a UK Post Office sign. 31A has used HO scale stone clad buildings to good effect on his Finsbury Square layout to make the administrative buildings for the LNER (I think) against the back wall of the layout. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83030-train-spotting-at-finsbury-square/ I think to a large extent it comes down to what compromises annoy you and which don’t. I think that most people seeing that on a layout would simply like the quality of the model. I hope that helps. Jamie
  6. The film for which I built the small trainset has been premiered at Frighfest in London, and will be on Netflix (I think) in the coming months. Here is a link to the trailer and an interview with the director Carl Strathie and producer Charlette Kilby. I also worked as visual effects supervisor on the film. You can see the trainset very briefly in the trailer, although it just looks like the dinner table where the family are gathered eating over it. The film has been getting some very good reviews and people have suggested that there is a bright future for Carl and Charlette, I have felt this since first working with them on their first feature 'Solis' (also on Netflix - a one hander of a man trapped in an escape pod, a great piece of low budget sci-fi film making I feel).
  7. I too dislike the addition of smoke in pictures, but a lot of that is because it is very often a soft brush selected and then quickly dragged over the image. But as a one off, this is one I have mocked up quickly in Nuke, I could have done it in Photoshop, but I like Nuke better as it is a programme I have used professionally for many years. Some smoke from the Action Essentials package (two separate pieces picked at different times). The image has been graded a bit to take the edge of the colours and an overall grain has been added. I have added some foreground foliage to emphasis the moving camera. Anyway, it is hard to improve on the model of Little Bytham, and indeed many layouts that are reworked in Photoshop. There is always an exception, and that is the wonderful work of Robmcg who has such a personal take on railway modelling through the use of Photoshop, and bringing a hint of Terence Cuneo into digital imagery. On the subject of digital reworking of trains, here is an unfinished piece I did as part of my M.A. in visual effects over which I took a lot more time. I must finish this off and put the correct roof on York Station. This is from a short film just over 1 minute. Much of the station is York today run through Nuke and Photoshop, the Standard 4MT and some of the platform and tracks are from Pickering, the WD is Backmann, the wagons Cambrian, and the loco in the platform is a still my uncle took at York in the 50s. I know the suitcases are too near the edge of the platform, but they are there to mask the people on Pickering platform, the lamp on the right of the 4MT also needs cloning out from the other one. There are lots of little details to sort out still, but hopefully I can get it done before long (Christmas). Since the joy of modelling for me is making something I can hold and not just a digital file on a computer I am very happy to leave be the photos in this thread. Jamie
  8. Still on the LMS Inspection Saloon, sprayed with matt varnish and glazed. Looking at the closeup I may have overdone the varnish, but the transfers are safe. I have done some hand weathering, but it will also have a little more done and then a very fine spray with track dirt. I need to get a couple 8BA nuts and bolts to hold the body to the chassis and then do the piping and handrail and it will be there. Interesting comparing it to a blue Bachmann version. I haven’t done the windscreen wipers as the photo I was working from didn’t have them, but then I haven’t added the cross bar you can see in the above photo. It may need a bit of tidying on the buffers looking at the images, and the roof will need a light spray to tone down the dark weathering patches. Looking at the wipers on the Bachmann model I think those will be replaced with Extreme Etches ones, they are way too heavy. Nearly there though. I am pleased with it as a first full brass kit build, but the DMUs I have done are already have better workmanship, so I am going in the right direction. Jamie
  9. The sequence as a whole is very probably edited together from different trains as the angles shown would require a several cameras shoot to get all the shots, and since the trains are probably identical (other than numbers) it would make more sense to shoot several trains from different viewpoints. Perhaps the poster meant that it is an edit and not a composite? Photoshop is a stills compositing tool and not editing software, it is also not a good video composting tool being used mostly for still images. The YouTube video compression is also an issue taking a great deal of sharpness from the sequence which does make it look at bit artificial. The opening shot is moving so would require a huge amount of pixel/camera tracking in something like After Effects or Nuke. Where is the join? I cannot see a patch or discrepancy between perspective lines. For a moving shot like that to do a composite of two trains I would be quoting a serious budget. It could be done in Photoshop for a still image, and the later Photoshop versions do support some video/moving footage, but not at the level this would require. Were this a static or still image I would be equally doubtful, but as it is footage shot on a moving camera, it is unlikely to be a composite. It does look like there may be a dropped frame near the beginning, or awkward playback from the source server. The odd angle of the train is due to lens distortion at the edge of the frame where it is most apparent. I have worked in the film and television industry for over 25 years and now lecture in visual effects as well as still working on some projects, so have been asked to do shots like this, and I would say to a director to not move the camera or drop the shot. As for tight curves on layouts there is one big consideration of you are running steam engines, getting a realistic close coupling between the engine and tender requires that you have wider curves. It is a choice that needs to be made when planning a layout, it would be lovely to add tight curves on a layout, but then you must open out the space between loco and tender, the same for any stock that does not articulate easily. With diesel locomotives and any bogie traffic it is generally far easier to use tight curves and have good looking trains. As for what may cause the derailments though I am sure others know far more than me, more of a physics issue than a film one. Jamie
  10. Thanks Barry I had a look at a few photos. I think you are right, but I am going to leave it. I thought the dark line on the protype photo was JPEG sharpening, the kind of contrast line you get around bright points, and it looks like the Bachmann one has such a thin black line it is barely visible. The BR lining sheet I have does have black lines on the single lines, but they are thicker than in the photos below. I ordered some LMS lining to get to get this thin line. Some models I have seen haven’t bothered with the top line. I don’t have many photos to work from so I am not sure if there was some variation in this. Hopefully I will have time to do the varnish coat this afternoon, then glazing and finishing off. Jamie
  11. A little more on the Comet LMS Inspection Saloon. The fine lining for above the windows arrived, it was really fiddly to do, fairly good, I am sure I will get better at this. People added inside. There was a gap between the end top and the curved roof which I had solved with araldite on the Class 120 DMU, but here I had made the floor join the sides, so I have had to botch this a bit. I added plasticard behind the to, hoping that would work, but it was obvious that it sat back, so I pasted in a little Araldite and let it set, before filing it back. It has been painted by brush, it looks OK but not as good as if I had made the sides and roof together. This is part of it being my first build in brass and learning how to deal with some issues. I think some weathering around this join may help and the pipes that go over this should also mask things a little. I now need to do a tiny bit more touching up of the painting inside, clean it, there is a lot of Araldite dust and then varnish the transfers on. Then it should be the home stretch, glazing, add the pipes and a little weathering. There are some quite horrendous backs to the door detail soldering that on future builds I will file off, I did that on the Class 120 before painting it. The finished coach will be OK for the layout but will be an obvious first build to me. It will be a nice coach to have though, and there are things about it I like more than the Bachmann one, especially that I built it, and also bits of detail that I added to make it a personal model. Jamie
  12. Interesting talk about brick paper, I fully agree about the depth mortar courses, but personally I feel there are a few things that make me always use the plastic sheets. The first is that the paper printed sheets are not as matt as painted plastic sheet, and when the light catches it at a bad angle the sheen looks unreal. When bricks are laid they will have very slightly different angles to the light, even a tiny offset makes the light fall irregularly on them, which is also contributes to an even sheen looking unreal. Unless the modelling is exceptional the joins between sheets show knife sharp edges. If you take a cutter and mark in the joins at the corners on plastic brickwork it makes for a very pleasing join. To be honest this is also the case for plastic moulded bricks. Many models using brick paper have bends over joins, or show bubbles of glue behind that make for a curve to the surface that does not feel correct. Perhaps the biggest thing for me is weathering, I am making a very dirty northern town, so there are layers of dirt liberally added. Perhaps airbrushing on dirt would improve a lot of paper brickwork. There is often something too regular about the colour variation of the bricks in brick paper. This probably is good for newer buildings, but less so for dirty and old ones. With plastic brickwork, I like being able to dab in a very thinned bit of mortar colour to run down the grooves and look like repointed/repaired mortar. I also like the solidity of working with plastic, but then I put it over a thin ply base which makes for a very strong build. Adding decorative brickwork is also easier with plastic brick card, such as the patterned edges near the eves on the image below. It is also easy to add junction boxes and wiring made from extruded plastic sprue pulled over a candle, and old military modeller technique. I love CF MRC, as they have addressed the rounded edges of (many) commercial plastic brick sheets. Sanding them down is an excellent idea, and the zinc cut sheets look amazing. Perhaps one area where using paper sheets could be exploited to great effect would be to photograph the building, or one in the same condition and compile those photographs in Photoshop or a similar programme to give an exact representation of the surface and colour (dependant on the lighting, exposure, stock and other things that affect the capture of colour and contrast). 3D printing is an area that is developing, again it probably has a too deep mortar course on many models I have seen, but it can look excellent on aged buildings. Here is a photo of work in progress on my department store that I posted a few images in the thread a month or two ago. This is a mix of Walthers models kit (with moulded bricks) bashed and slater plastic brick sheet with some of the techniques I mentioned incorporated like the junction box and wiring, as well as repointed mortar. It also shows a negative where I have joined two sections of the original model and lost the brickwork, some of this is made to look like repaired bomb damage which has been concreted over, but some of it looks like a model join. I suspect that like DC and DCC this is something that will divide people’s views, and on which people have a lot of personal attachment to. I also think that as with most modelling that when it is done well whatever method you are using it looks good. Jamie
  13. Hi Tony Your encouragement is greatly appreciated. Apologies for the pony truck - bogie mistake. The pony truck is a bit of a hybrid. I bought a Brassmasters Ivatt/BR standard truck not realising that it is EM gauge, not OO. I also found that the Brassmasters etches are very thin and quite hard to work with for a beginner. I only realised this when I tried to put OO gauge wheels in there. I then bought a Comet LS2 bar frame pony truck which I found much easier to build, it is a thicker etch and a much simpler build. It is not as detailed though, so I filed down some of the Brassmasters etch to fit OO width and soldered those parts over the Comet frame. The guitar strings provided with the Brassmasters etch really do make wonderful springs. I must nip down to a music shop and get right string for more detailing. The wheels are Alan Gibson. The Bachmann pony truck does look clumsy compared with the Comet/Brassmasters hybrid, but it is beautiful compared with the Hornby Railroad Crosti original one. This was my early soldering so please believe me that it has got less clumsy than this example. I have bought pairs of Brassmasters and Comet etches to use for my Ivatts and BR Standards, I do think it makes the ‘face’ of the loco look so much better. Here is a later one I did for one an Ivatt4MT. There is a tiny bit of Evergreen plastic tube added at the front as well. As regards safety, I played the drums for many years, so perhaps my fingers were already a little numb from those times when I caught my fingers or thumbs between the sticks and the rims on the drums. That is why drummers pull those expressions. Jamie
  14. For those starting with soldering, of which I am still one, it does become easier to work with and has overtaken plastic for many builds for me for ease of use. I think the biggest thing I found when learning to solder models was that buying good solder is essential and that Maplin electrical solder is just really hard (impossible) to use for soldering etched brass. Liquid, acid flux dabbed on also makes soldering so much easier. I guess the other thing is that you have to get used to holding something hot, and relying on tweezers, jigs and things to hold the parts. You also gradually develop Tony’s disregard to uncomfortably hot finger ends. Once you overcome that, make a few kits, soldering becomes easier than gluing for many parts. Lamp irons, brake hangers and other really small parts are so much more solid and fix so much better. I have also found making brass bodies for bought powered chassis is a good way to go as you don’t have to make something that works, but just something that looks good and sits on the moving parts. I like making DMUs so that was a good option, the unpowered units are just coaches with a cab on them. I am sure others can make recommendations on kits to start with, don’t do signals, they sound like an easy option but are really fiddly. I did a coach (Comet kit) rather than a loco, still trying to finish my first loco. Making odd detail parts was also a start before the coach, front bogies for some steam engines. My soldering has improved a lot, but still has a long way to go. I am still frightened by soldering motion, but am sure it will come. First steps, bogie on the right. First full kit, still, being finished right now, but was a big step. Should be finished by the end of the week. Brass uppers, and frames on the unpowered units. Being ambitious, but I am sure it will get there. The other thing is watch one of Tony’s videos and follow what he says and also if you make a mistake you can always heat it up and start again much more easily than with plastic and weld/glue. Jamie
  15. St Enodoc, thanks for the comment. I did fall foul of a drop of Mek on an almost finished model, the Class 129 DMU, so I appreciate it can hapen. It did annoy me at the time, but I fixed it and it was accidental research into painting techniques. A bit more on the Comet LMS Inspection Saloon. Better photos of the colour, maybe a bit too rich now, but you get the idea. I have added the waist lining, number and BR crests, plus some tiny lettering at the ends, which is not actually correct, but too small to really question unless you get out a magnifying glass. All from the HMRS* pessfix sets. The number is for a Leeds allocated saloon. I have also painted the interior and added some bits of paper, wall charts and diagrams as the walls looked very bare. The chassis has also had the missing bits painted. The BR lining sets I have, do not have the single thin straw/yellow line that I have seen on some photos of the saloons, or on the Bachmann version. I have seen some models without the top line. I suspect I may have to get the LMS lining set to get the thin line. Any thoughts, just leave it, get that set, or are there other lining sets that would match? Next step is to spray this and the oil tankers I have been working on with matt varnish, and then weathering, but not the latter before I decide on the top line or not. I also need to get some 8BA nuts and bolts I think, then when all that is done a little roof edge filling and the remaining waterpipes to be added and the side low hand rails. The glazing also has to be done. Feels like I might be actually finishing off a project for once. In addition to passing 100,000 views I see there are 120 people following the thread. Many thanks to everyone who has taken an interest in my modelling and also a big ‘thank you’ for the feedback and advice everyone has given, I have learned so much from this forum as well as from my days with the Leeds MRS. Jamie * 4mm model rail seems transfers like an odd sideline for Her Majesties Revenue Service.
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