Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


IanLister last won the day on November 17 2011

IanLister had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

579 Good

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seahouses, Northumberland

Recent Profile Visitors

2,707 profile views
  1. Hi. First couple of fishing boats for Tweed South Bank finished.......
  2. Hi The stations on the branch I'm modelling had concrete slabs 18' square on most of the platform surface, with the occasional yorkstone paved area in the posh bits. I've modelled this with Advanced Lightweight Polyfilla; the paving is precast in sections about 300mm x 75mm, stuck down, sanded and scribed, whereas the concrete area is laid in place with a pallette knife, sanded smooth, scribed and painted. Various indentations, holes etc were left in place as the concrete is 80 yrs old.......a convenient excuse. I haven't finished weathering it yet but am posting the pics
  3. Hi Polybear I buy the walnut strip from Jotika-ltd.com. Jotika are a manufacturer of model ship kits in the West Midlands. They sell walnut strip in packs of 10 x 1m lengths. I buy 1mm x 4mm for turnout timbers and 1mm x 3.5mm for regular sleepers. Costs around £3 a pack if I remember correctly. All cut to length using a small model maker's guillotine; my record is over 750 per minute, assisted by a bottle of decent beer! Best to order by phone as the 3.5mm is a special they use for deck planking in their kits but will sell if you ask for it. Deli
  4. Hi I use butanone to fix C and L chairs to walnut strip sleepers. I find it gives a stronger bond with the walnut than with ply, as the grain is more open and allows the plastic to soak in, as it were. I tried both and found the walnut to be far superior, less expensive and much more realistic looking. The pic below shows walnut sleepered track with just a light wash of black after laying: I've laid over 40 metres of track and 25 turnouts so far on my layout using this method and find it a very straightforward and satisfying process.
  5. Hi David. The building shells are 3mm foamboard covered on the outside walls with a thin layer of Advanced Lightweight Polyfilla which is scribed when dry to represent the stonework. Roofs are plasticard with slates from selfadhesive matte photopaper, cut into strips using the Silhouette cutter, which is a lot easier than the knife/ruler method I used to use! Window and door frames etc are made using the Silhouette, as are the decorative awning valances. The paving slabs, coping stones, chimney stacks and much of the decorative stonework detail is made
  6. Hi. I've taken the opportunity during the lockdown to build the station buildings for my ex-NER branch terminus set on the south bank of the Tweed estuary. The architectural style is that of the Alnwick and Cornhill branch, built in the 1880s by William Bell; my hypothetical branch was built at the same time. Buildings are now ready to place on the layout, which is 25 miles away in our workshop....but at least I'm now allowed to go there so they'll be planted this weekend. The buildings are completely scratchbuilt in 4mm scale.
  7. Hi Pete. Shame about the step backwards, but if it's not working for you taking steps forward gets you to a worse place still. If you decide to lay sleepers, then ballast, then thread rail, you might want to try my method: walnut sleepers laid and stained, which look better than ply or plastic ones and take the solvent better because of the more open grain; then chairs threaded onto rail and stuck down with solvent after ballasting. You can do turnouts the same way; by laying the crossing, then ballasting, then gauging everything from the crossing. I've built 12 so far, with a further 6 just n
  8. That's all impressively neat and tidy, and a clever design exercise. If only I could say the same about mine...... Ian
  9. Hi Ian. Really enjoyed the video; you've created a really convincing and believable scene. It must be a very satisfying layout to operate. Ian
  10. Thanks Pete. It does feel like I'm getting somewhere with this project. Ian
  11. Hi. Things are progressing steadily at Spittal. The summer and hot weather often results in a slowdown in activity for a lot of us; holidays, barbecues, family commitments and possibly a little heat-induced lethargy……..I’ve found the answer to the latter. Spittal is being built in a converted farm building with 3 foot thick stone walls, and though it’s south facing it stays wonderfully cool and comfortable even when outside is ridiculously hot; I’m not really a Mediterranean climate sort of person. So the weather can be used as a reason to go over to the workshop ‘because I need to cool down a
  12. Hi Ian That's looking good. If you decide to revisit wiring your posts try EZ line; it's available in the UK. It's an elastic polymer thread which comes on a reel and the elasticity deals with the sag issue and makes it very easy to put in place. The finer grade would work well in 2mmFS. It's an American product but available in the UK. I've used it for lineside wire and post fencing and also for fishing boat rigging on my 2mm layout. Ian
  13. Hi. How do I get rid of a dead blog? Ian Lister
  14. Hi Self-adhesive photo paper with an appropriately sized grid printed on is easy to align. I use two rows from the grid for each visible row, with the individual slates cut halfway through (one row). The uncut row makes for easy alignment as each row overlaps, and there's a printed line to work to. The photo paper is 110gsm, which looks about the right thickness, and is a dream to paint. Hope this makes sense; it's easier to do than to describe! Ian
  15. Hi I make my own corrugated iron sheets as used in the pic below: I cut strips of aluminium foil (the heavier duty stuff like turkey foil works best but any will do) about 10-12cm long and about 16-20mm wide. These are wrapped round one of those plastic screwtop lids with small corrugations to aid grip when opening; coffee jars, Nutella and various others. I look for deeper ones as they're easier to use. The foils is pressed into the corrugations by finger pressure and occasionally by pressing with a screwdriver blade or something similar. It can then be removed and cut to appropriat
  • Create New...