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  1. Your ashpan is better than mine, as it's a proper brass job. Did you use the GW riveter on it?
  2. Here's some poor photos of mine. I forgot that I replaced the chimney with a turned brass one - I have a vague memory of this being a C class chimney from DMR models, which is accurate for this loco. A couple of good reference sources are issues 9 and 10 of the 'Southern Way' which has loads of drawings and details of the C2/C2X classes, and this book from West Sussex County Council about railways in W. Sussex. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Going-off-Rails-Country-Railway/dp/0862604001/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=0862604001&qid=1596825267&s=books&sr=1-1 There's an article about the one that ended up in a river near Midhurst, with shots from various odd angles, including the underside of the tender (so I had no excuse not fitting brake gear to mine - I'll sort this when I rebuild it).
  3. I built the DJH C2X years ago, there were photos on an old incarnation of RMweb but I (and Google) can't find them at the moment. It never ran particularly well, and ended up sustaining some damage so it is currently in its box in several bits waiting a dismantle and rebuild. The castings were pretty good. Like a lot of DJH kits the loco body sat too high on the chassis (which can be fixed by filing down the spacing piece of the footplate). I replaced the spacers in the loco chassis with Comet ones, as the supplied ones made it about 10mm over the frames, presumably to get it round 15" curves on some 1980s layout. On the minus side the tender chassis was some cast U sections for the axles, and I replaced the cab roof (which suggests the supplied one was wrong). The biggest problem is that lower the chassis makes it obvious that the splashers are to scale width and don't have backs to them, so they don't cover OO gauge wheels. I've not figured out how to fix that yet. I suspect there's not much to chose between the DJH one and the NuCast. My DJH one from 20 years ago had better quality castings, as the boiler was round. ACE apparently do an etched one, presumably a shot down 7mm etch. I've heard mixed things about their kits and haven't tried one myself: https://www.aceproducts.org/index.php?route=product/category&path=36
  4. Is John Noneoftheabove a relation of Prawo Jazdy, that well known poor driver from Poland?
  5. The problem is that a lot of Southern locos are only available as elderly whitemetal kits.
  6. You get two wheels and one axle per pack. Despite the warnings, the set I got the other week was well moulded and didn't show much sign of flash.
  7. I'm not 'old' but I have been involved in running a society for a few years, and it's really time consuming. And a lot of that time is spent on boring admin stuff. So I'm not surprised that many people in such roles are over the retirement age, simply because they'll have the necessary spare time, and maybe fancy doing a small amount of 'work' after retirement. The flip side is that your committee then ends up not being a representative cross section of the membership. I can't see how you solve that challenge. “The creatures outside looked from pig to man, and from man to pig, and from pig to man again; but already it was impossible to say which was which.”
  8. The NCC W class are a good example of that. The extra 6" width of Irish classes often makes the boiler look way too small. https://www.railwaymagazine.co.uk/1515/rpsi-contemplates-ncc-mogul-new-build/
  9. I will give you the Turbomotive. It has a certain grace to it. These German things, on the other hand: http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/germturb/germturb.htm (Although some of the weirdness is from the condensing gear, rather than the turbine drive)
  10. Turbine locos are pretty weird looking. How about 'Jawn henry' for the ultimate box on (lots of ) wheels? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norfolk_and_Western_Railway_2300
  11. And remember that it's a volunteer doing this, often with a full time job and a life. If they chose to give up their time to doing the boring admin work for a club and society, then you can't blame them for choosing the easy option.
  12. I feel your pain. Adding pipework to a Brighton loco is hard work (although if you think an I3 is bad, you should try a dual fitted D1/M with motor train gear....)
  13. There are a couple of books called 'Steam on the Widened lines' which are worth getting hold of (if you can find them for non-silly prices - they are slim A5 sized volumes): https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEAM-WIDENED-LINES-Northern-Successors/dp/0947699252/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=steam+on+the+widened+lines&qid=1596206790&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEAM-WIDENED-LINES-Southern-Companies/dp/0947699287/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=steam+on+the+widened+lines&qid=1596206790&sr=8-1
  14. Most clubs and societies are Unincorporated Associations: https://www.gov.uk/unincorporated-associations https://www.netlawman.co.uk/ia/unincorporated-associations#:~:text=An unincorporated association is an organisation that arises when two,as are most voluntary organisations. The key bit to remember with these is this is explained in the gov.uk page So becoming a Limited Company protects the individual members from losing their personal cash or houses if the annual show makes a massive loss. This is probably a good idea if you're running a large show. Having been there (but not with Johnny Depp....) the legal costs of somebody injuring themselves and suing you should be covered by the public liability insurance. When my (unincorporated association) drama group got sued the insurers provided solicitors and so on, and had they won the insurers would have paid out instead of the group members.
  15. If you want to assemble the frames that way, I'm wondering if it would be easier to use the rods as a template for drilling pilot holes in a length of bar or block of hardwood (using a pillar drill to ensure accuracy). Open them out to 1/8", fit spare Gibson axles, and you've got a jig.
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