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  1. No, I don't think that there is any way to buy them at present, unless they happen to show up on eBay.
  2. Yes, that was it, thanks: the etch did say "5522 Design" on it.
  3. For the coaches posted in this thread, the sources were: Etched Pixels (currently temporarily shut) Hawksworth A23 first Hawksworth D133 brake third Hawksworth J18 sleeper Hawksworth K45 brake O13 milk brake Taylor Precision Models (not trading since about 2012) Collet K40 brake Masterclass Models (Chris Higgs) (These were limited run kits offered in the past on the 2mm Association mailing list.) Collet C67 third Toplight D69 brake third Collett 'Sunshine' D121 brake third Collett 'Sunshine' E152 brake composite Bill Bedford (https://www.mousa.biz/ but it doesn't seem to list etched sides any more, so he has probably stopped doing those) H15 restaurant car H24 restaurant car eBay Toplight K22 full brake (a reduction of a 4mm etch), probably pretty old from the look of the typed instructions.
  4. Good to see some nice coaches! I have a new one to show off too, but I just need better weather than today to photograph it. I agree with @Nig H that 12-wheel coaches are nice, they definitely add interest to rakes. I'm very pleased with how my Hawksworth sleeper looks, though a bit less pleased with how it goes round curves (not so much unless the curve is very gentle). Oh well, I suppose the same was true of the prototypes. @wellseasoned If you join the 2mm Association you could try their etch of the LMS 12-wheel bogie. It's not any harder than their 8-wheel bogie etches, and the result is very impressive.
  5. Nothing new to report as yet, but another past project has been re-visited: the Masterclass Models GWR C67 third I did back in 2017. I was never very happy with the sides, as the paint was a bit too thick. I really should have stripped the sides and had another go at the time, but what with one thing and another it didn't get done, at least until recently. The result: The coach has also been renumbered to W5826W in honour of a photograph of that coach at Oxford (a station I know well) in Hugh Longworth's recent mammoth book on pre-nationalization coaching stock.
  6. Fox do "No Smoking" decals - not a sausage, but a triangle: https://fox-transfers.co.uk/transfers/no-smoking-window-graphics-58259
  7. Time to revisit a past project ... In 2016 I did a D.121 brake third and as an experiment I left off the crimson banding below the cantrail. I was never very happy with the result, and it looked odd compared to all the other ex-GWR stock I've built. So the time came to take the sides off, strip and repaint them: Definitely an improvement! I think that 2017's C.67 third will probably receive the same treatment at some point as the paint is a bit too thick, but there are other things to work on first.
  8. The Masterclass Models GWR E.152 brake composite of 1936 is now finished: As ever, these are lovely kits. Certainly the nicest 2mm coach kits I've ever come across. The only thing I did for this one that I've not tried before is the roof handrails, which I'm rather pleased with. And now, a cautionary tale ... When it came to numbering I was looking through the available numbers I had. Russell Appendix 1 has a photograph of W6985W, but I noticed that with the numbers I had it would be much easier to make up W6859W, and 6859 was the number of the first coach in this diagram. So I used that. The next day I was considering what to do next, when I had the idea of doing one of the coaches that was rebuilt during WW2 due to bomb damage: these are a mix of a toplight era underframe and a 1940s body. Reading the section in Harris about these coaches, I wasn't entirely thrilled to find that in 1942 6859 was damaged and rebuilt with a different body. Argh! Off came the number decals, and back we went to W6985W. Which leads to the second mistake ... On the corridor side the number should be on the right, not the left. I am not sure how I managed to get that wrong. Fixing it would leave an obvious mark on the varnish now, and I can't face stripping and redoing the entire corridor side, so I shall live with it.
  9. I've been watching your progress on the County on the Other Site - it looks very nice. I can see I'm going to have to branch out into loco kits ... I can see why, they really are a big step beyond anything we've had before! Out of interest, how much manual work goes into a new roof, once you've got the profile? Could the process be automated so that a program could spit out any GWR roof, given just a few details like the vent locations?
  10. Since someone was asking what I'm currently working on, it's another of Chris Higgs' Masterclass Models coaches: an E.152 brake composite. Progress is now stalled waiting for some sunshine and warmer weather to tackle painting. Shown here with sides just held on with blutac to make sure everything lines up: One new thing that I've attempted is the grab rails on the roof, which have come out rather well. Let's hope they survive painting!
  11. Yes, the Comet instructions are invaluable. The owner of Comet Models died a year or so ago and the range changed hands, so I took the precaution of downloading the instruments for every coach in the range that I might conceivably make. Roofs are a difficult one. I've got quite a few Masterclass Models resin roofs that will hopefully keep me going for a while. If I run out or need something else, the most practical option looks to be experimenting with 3d printing. Chris Higgs has posted some results of his experiments, which look really good: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/126806-going-to-the-agm/&do=findComment&comment=2936986 But designing a roof for printing will be quite a bit of work. Etched Pixels have various roof profiles, but I couldn't comment on how accurate or not they are.
  12. The two obvious suppliers are Modelmaster (https://modelmaster.uk/) and Fox Transfers (https://fox-transfers.co.uk/). Modelmasters decals used to be available from the N Gauge Society, and did both lining and some very useful sheets of BR-era numbers for pre-nationalisation stock. I believe that these transfers are now available directly from them, though I haven't had the need to order any myself yet. Fox do both lining and numbers, though their numbers look to be for early BR stock. I've always found that the number I need isn't quite available, so I end up cutting up number decals to get the number I want. It's fiddly but not too hard. I used to use Modelmasters lining but have switched to Fox as it's rather finer, although that makes it harder to apply, too.
  13. I usually use ones from N Brass: http://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/fitcoach.html#buffer
  14. Thin acetate doesn't really stiffen up sides much, or even at all. Generally stiffness comes from adding the tumblehome (like corrugated iron is stiffer than just a sheet). I also try to make sure there's support for the sides in the middle below the windows, usually by adding plasticard strip to whatever is below.
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