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QRModeller

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  1. G’day Kevin, Thanks for that, just what I needed to know. Reckon I might take you up on the offer for a virtual ’how to’ as well, if I can remember to join the ZAG meeting in time! Cheers, Matt (originally from Brisbane but currently out West in the sticks at Dalby).
  2. Hi team, new-ish Association member here. Joined in May (after first toying with the idea 8 years ago!), when I found I needed an away/distraction from my main modelling discipline of QR in HO scale as I now also work in that industry. Currently trodding the well worn path of 2FS newbies by building a 16t mineral wagon which is mostly complete, so have also started on the underframe for a standard van kit. I’d just like to know if there’s any standard for how far out from the buffer beam a DG should sit, as all my previous searches for this info have been fruitless thus far. Basically, is there any part of the coupling that should line up with part of the wagon e.g. the buffer faces? Cheers, Matt.
  3. G’day, I haven’t been very active on here recently, so only just seen your request. These any good? https://www.wuiskemodels.com/prototype/index.php?sfpg=MDAzLS1ESUVTRUwgTE9DT01PVElWRVMvMjgwMCBDTEFTUy8qMjgwMF9DTEFTU18yODA5XzAwMi5qcGcqUEFHRSppbWFnZWZvcm0qKmE5NzY4NGY3M2E4M2M1OGFkZTA4OWZmZDNhOWIyY2Mz https://www.wuiskemodels.com/prototype/index.php?sfpg=MDAzLS1ESUVTRUwgTE9DT01PVElWRVMvMjgwMCBDTEFTUy8qMjgwMF9DTEFTU18yODE4XzIwMTAtMDUtMThfMDAxLmpwZypQQUdFKmltYWdlZm9ybSoqYTFiNGYyOWFiZWExYTliZGM2ODc2MTNhZjljYWIzNzQ https://www.wuiskemodels.com/prototype/index.php?sfpg=MDAzLS1ESUVTRUwgTE9DT01PVElWRVMvMjgwMCBDTEFTUy8qMjgwMF9DTEFTU18yODI2XzAwMy5qcGcqUEFHRSppbWFnZWZvcm0qKjUyOWUxYWJiM2JkMmYxMzc3YzI0MzYyNTgxODA0MzYw https://www.wuiskemodels.com/prototype/index.php?sfpg=MDAzLS1ESUVTRUwgTE9DT01PVElWRVMvMjgwMCBDTEFTUy8qMjgwMF9DTEFTU18yODI2XzAwNC5qcGcqUEFHRSppbWFnZWZvcm0qKjE1OTYyN2VmZmE2ZTdmYWE2ODcxNDM5NTZjYTc4ZmQ5 https://www.wuiskemodels.com/prototype/index.php?sfpg=MDAzLS1ESUVTRUwgTE9DT01PVElWRVMvMjgwMCBDTEFTUy8qMjgwMF9DTEFTU18yODMxXzIwMTAtMDUtMThfMDA0LmpwZypQQUdFKmltYWdlZm9ybSoqYmRmZjZiOTI0MDVmMjg2YTM1Y2MzM2NkOTBkNmM2NGY The rest of the 2800 Class gallery is here if you haven’t already seen it: https://www.wuiskemodels.com/prototype/index.php?sfpg=MDAzLS1ESUVTRUwgTE9DT01PVElWRVMvMjgwMCBDTEFTUy8qKioqKmNkMDc3YzdiMThlYzAwMjAzYjRmYTk4MDY4ZjA0ZGVj Hope these help. Matt
  4. Happy 150th birthday QR!!

    1. Horsetan

      Horsetan

      When's the next Aussie Rules modelling forfeit competition? ;-)

    2. 69843

      69843

      Dunno. Had forgotten it with my busy year. Good thing I did as well....:)

       

       

      Yes, Happy Birthday to QR. A railway that knows how to do heritage right

    3. Ozexpatriate

      Ozexpatriate

      Do trains still go from Ipswich to Grandchester?

  5. Got buzzed by a zeppelin today!

  6. Cheers Mark, They went together quite well, and the pieces required minimal cleaning up too! Matt.
  7. What did I tell you?! An update that hasn't taken more than half a year to appear!! This time I'll be tackling two kits at the same time, hence this posts title. So, what am I building? Two FJS wagon kits by PGC Scale Models. These are/were steel bodied four wheeled wagons used to transport just about anything that could be loaded into them! Inside we find five sprus of three different mouldings, and a bag containing wheels, decals and white metal buffers and brake cylinder. Firstly, because I'll be using Kadee's I had to modify the ends to accept the coupler box. Three done, one to go at this point. Next, I made four sub-assemblies of an end and a side. Once the glue set, for the first wagon, I glued the two sub-assemblies together and then added the floor. On doing this, I found I'd possibly taken too much off the sides of the floor when cleaning it up so there are some gaps between it and the sides! Lesson learned, for the second wagon, I glued the floor to one of the sub-assemblies first, before bringing both together. There's still a small gap in places on the side of the floor that was glued second but none of them will be noticeable on either wagon when in use. Next came the two central frames. These had to be shortened to accommodate the Kadee couplers before being attached. Once these were on, I added the W iron mouldings, and at the same time, the wheels (although they can still be removed). Time to add the outer frames. Before doing this though, the door stops were supposed to be bent into a slight 'S' shape. However, I felt the moulded on ones were too thick and could bend back to their original shape over time, so I cut them off and made my own from brass strip which were then superglued on. Top is the original moulding, one below has been modified. With all four outer frames modded, they could now be attached to the wagons. I did have to trim the backs of some of the door hinges to allow for the extra width added by the brass strip door stops before the frames would fit properly. I also had to re-glue all of the door stops as they worked loose while the frames were being fitted. They're all stuck solid now though! The handbrake levers were next, followed by the buffers. That's where I'm currently up to with these. I've yet to add the brakes, brake cylinder and couplers, but before completion I want to add some form of brake gear similar to the Caintode A wagon from my last blog entry. As these kits don't come with materials for this, I'm going to wait until I've built a few of the other kits I bought recently to use the left-overs from their brake gear components. Stay tuned, next time I should be building something a little bit bigger and with more wheels! Matt.
  8. Cheers Mike, I was amazed when I saw the peg bar on the fret, it was so fragile!! Doing the brake gear was actually quite fun, and even though it's been abbreviated, it was still interesting trying to work out how it would work for real on the full sized wagons! Matt.
  9. Well, I may have had my fingers crossed behind my back when in my last entry I said I'd try and update this more regularly! Basically, I was hit by a lack of motivation a couple of weeks after said last entry, and have only just got my enthusiasm back, largely thanks to attending this years Brisbane show. So, what have I been doing recently? Up till last week, nothing! However, after practically doubling my rollingstock fleet with all the kits I bought at the show, I decided I should probably start building some of them! My biggest purchase was the second last Wuiske/DJH A10 kit available, which I've decided to build as my entry for this years RMweb challenge, and so to get my practice back up, I'm going to build a couple of these new wagon kits first, starting with this: Another A Class wagon, this time by Caintode Flats. This model depicts the last build type of these wagons of which there were only 10 built. Open the bag and this is what was inside: Main body, floor/underframe, bag of bits, bag with decals, and they're a bit hard to see but three lengths of brass wire. Open the bag of bits and we find: Whitemetal W irons, brakes, buffers and brake cylinder, delrin wheel bearings, wheels, another length of brass wire, solder, and a brass etch containing bits for the brake gear. Building it didn't require any special tricks or techniques, I just followed the instructions, although didn't follow them in their printed order. One set of W irons, both V hangers, brake cylinder and actuating lever glued on. Second set of W irons added as well as wheels. Brake rod and linking piece also added. Brake lever and peg bar added. Close-up of peg bar. Body, brakes and buffers added. Brake gear all linked up. Footsteps and T piece added. Finished! (almost!) Just need to paint, decal and weather it now, but I'll wait until I have a few more kits built and paint them all together. Also needs couplers adding but that will happen after painting. Overall, an enjoyable build, if a little fiddly at times (although that could be me out of practice!), and was the first time I've soldered something that wasn't electrical wires! I'll need a few more of these eventually so now I know how easy they were to build, they'll be done in no time (once I've got them!). That's all for now, and I can guarantee that the next update won't take six months to appear! Matt.
  10. So, I've been considering joining in with this years challenge since Andy created this forum area, just not had any idea of what I could build. However, thanks to the Brisbane show last weekend, that's now changed! I'll be building this little beauty! What is she? No. 6 of the A10 class; QR's second oldest class of locomotive built way back in 1865, and apparently the oldest operating steam locomotive in the Southern Hemisphere! This class of 13 locos were built by Nielsen & Co. of Glasgow, and entered service in 1866. The model. The kit itself was made by DJH, and sold by Wuiske Models out here in Aus a couple of years ago, and I was lucky enough to grab the second last kit available at the Brisbane show last weekend. As I'm planning on eventually modelling the entire QR Heritage fleet, it was actually quite important that I get one before they disappear! I'll go through the contents in a later post, but it basically consists of brass and nickel silver etches, and brass, nickel silver and white metal castings. Well, that's my head stuck up above the parapet, and I can't wait to get started! Only one problem though, I gotta go get me a soldering iron! Matt.
  11. Those who wish to chip their 1550's for DCC will probably be pleased to hear that the decoders have now been added to the Wuiske online catalog. The decoders are: - LokPilot Standard - DCC non-sound 4-function decoder with standard 8 pin plug. - LokSound Select - DCC and Sound 4-function decoder includes wired Speaker and Baffle Box and loaded with correct sound to suit the 1550 class. Prices are AUD$40 for the LokPilot Standard and AUD$140 for the LokSound Select. Cheers, Matt.
  12. Those who wish to chip their 1550's for DCC will probably be pleased to hear that the decoders have now been added to the Wuiske online catalog. The decoders are: - LokPilot Standard - DCC non-sound 4-function decoder with standard 8 pin plug. - LokSound Select - DCC and Sound 4-function decoder includes wired Speaker and Baffle Box and loaded with correct sound to suit the 1550 class. Prices are AUD$40 for the LokPilot Standard and AUD$140 for the LokSound Select. Cheers, Matt.
  13. London calling...

    1. Captain Kernow

      Captain Kernow

      Hamilton Academicals

  14. Same problem for me! Solved that one by running it in on the Inlander loop of the Workshops Museum layout for a few hours last week! Matt
  15. says Geronimo

    1. pH

      pH

      ... or Germolino.

    2. Captain Kernow

      Captain Kernow

      Linguistic manoevers in the dark

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