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Jol Wilkinson

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Everything posted by Jol Wilkinson

  1. I have found the D&D side of the programme rather disappointing. Each week the procedure followed is the same and there is no indication of the D&D beyond photographing/looking the real thing, the designer looking at a almost complete 3D CAD image and adding some rivets, checking at initial prototype for accuracy, etc. I would like to have seen some of what actually goes into making a completed model, especially the painting/lining, but that would mean a trip to China for at least the Hornby products. However, I recognise that the show has to have the usual human emotions built into it to appeal to a wider public, rather than be a more interesting "Inside the Factory" programme (although coping with Greg Wallace is hard work).
  2. The radial truck used in several of London Road Models loco kits is available as a separate item. If the cutouts in the A2 frames are the standard 6mm wide hornblock cut out, it could be fitted. More expensive than Tony's solution though ,at £5 for the etch and 2mm bearings.
  3. The recommendations about using a small amount of solder could be the answer. It has been suggested that you can use solder pellets or cut off small pieces of solder "wire". If you can pre-tin the edges of the part(s) you are assembling, that may help with applying a smaller amount of solder. Perhaps using solder paint, cream or paste may be better. Eileens Emporium do a 188 deg. solder paste/paint. Phoenix Precision list the Carrs 138 deg. solder cream but at a horrendous price.
  4. Intrigued by this. The first photo shows what looks like five complete carriage bodies, but later ones show incomplete assemblies. As the roofs and sides have to be glued on, and look like they have been, I am somewhat confused. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133949432508?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=8fe1fec191fa4f9dbc44ce9f60b929c0&bu=43007734306&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20211201012731&segname=11021&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cut%3Dut%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid
  5. I track several brands (such as D&S) and 4mm LNWR stuff on ebay and have found several traders names consistently appearing. Sometinmes they seem to getHow do hold of quite large collections. How do they get hold of it? The descriptions often match what is written on the box/packet but don't go any further. Loose items seem to confuse them. These are often incorrectly described, so rather exposing their lack of product knowledge. A recent one for an unbuilt kit described it as in good working order!
  6. Miss P, should we call you Mystic Meg now? It's getting a bit like Kevin McCLoud's Grand Designs, where things have to go wrong (or be in jeopardy) before everything works out perfectly. The directors presumably think it makes for good TV but it gets rather boring, week after week.
  7. From some years of experience I have found that a liquid flux brushed into the joint and a good free flow solder, with a 50W AntexTCU works well. Having plenty of heat at the right temperature ensures that the solder flows into the joint, so you have only to use just enough. I use London Road Models 145 solder and "Phosflux". For any excess of solder, I have several special scrapers made by the late John Hayes from old hacksaw blades - they are the blue ones in the photo. They are great for removing excess solder from right angle joints.
  8. That is what I would expect, Mike, but it also depends on the source of the information. Some people quote "over cladding" figures, from outline or model drawings. As the OP was about planning a 4F, I expect it is the overall cladding dimension that is relevant.
  9. Chas, I've got a selection of pens acquired over the years. My first was an Ecobra, followed by a Kern, which is still my favorite (like the Haff 133). I have a Haff 135 but haven't fully got to grips with it yet, the blades are much fattier than the Kern. It draws super lines, but you need to change your approach slightly. I felt prompted by your post to get a to get a Haff 228 but then I remembered I've also got a vintage Ken set (from Golden Arrow, a present from a friend for doing some CAD design) which I haven't even tried yet. The test sheet supplied with it has fine, crips lines. If I needed a first pen, I would get both the the Haff 133 and 228. At those prices and given the availability of decent bow pens, it's worth it. The one thing I have found is that the cheap ebay ones, even if you follow Ian Rathbone's guidance on honing them, never match a decent one like a Kern or Haff. Jol
  10. Does the quoted diameters include cladding or does that have to be added? It is something I have come across when designing etched kits.
  11. I have had a RSU from when the LRM one was first available. I consider it as complementary to my Antex 50W TCU and never build a kit without using it (white metal and plastic models excepted!) I think the the lRM and Swanage RSUs are very similar in design and construction. The LRM unit was designed by the late Mike Grey, an electrical engineer and lecturer at Watford College. It has been updated over time, including flexible silicon leads, a stainless steel case and improved probe handle. Spare probes/leads and carbon tips are available and a new steel "workplate" (similar to one available some years ago) will hopefully be available soon.
  12. His approach appears to show a total lack of respect for his customers. The result is that his behaviour is made public and likely to impact his future sales. However he makes, in a rather churlish way, one valid point. From experience supporting one kit supplier over many years, I know that some existing and potential customers do like to conduct quite intensive email conversations about products for sale. They often ignore the website information about purchase terms, delivery charges, etc. and send an email asking for that information. Sometimes they want detailed information about a model or kit, asking for detailed historical information on different variants and whether the model can be altered to produce those, asking for ancillaries such as paint, wheels, etc. which the supplier doesn't produce or stock, and a myriad of other things. To research some of those questions and provide answers is time consuming and sometimes fruitless if a sale doesn't result. So dealing with repeated or time consuming enquiries can take up time otherwise spent developing new models, ordering new materials, sorting and storing them, packing kits (it can take up to 20 minutes to select the components and pack a an loco kit, print the instructions, etc.) taking parcels to the Post Office, etc. Most traders manage to do all this and deal with their customer's enquiries in a friendly and professional way. Sadly, some don't.
  13. It's not clear if you need to emboss half etched rivets or what sort of rivet press you have bought. If the rivets are half etched from the rear of the etched part, then it shouldn't be too much of a problem. The gravity rivet embossing tool as invented by John Hayes and sold by London Road Models was designed for this job. It is important to have a suitable backing on which the etch is placed that has a small amount of give. I find some .5mm plasticard works well and only needs a small "drop" for a good result. Putting rivets into full thickness brass or n/s sheet needs a riveting tool with a dimpled anvil to support the brass and a punch to press the rivet though. The GW riveting tool is of this type. My experience has been with 4mm kits but the WS kits are 7mm. The GW press has different anvil and punch sizes to suit different scales, while the LRM gravity type has a silver steel punch that can be ground/filed to give a larger or smaller point to suite different size half etched rivets. I hope this helps.
  14. John, they were designed for springing. A coil spring sat inside the threaded spring holder which fitted into the hole in the top of the hornguide. The turned steel "tappet" fitted into the spring and bore onto the top of the horn block/bearing. The springs were, IIRC, sold separately in different strengths. The height of the loco could be adjusted by winding the spring holder up or down. I still have some in my bought but never used box. The concept of springing with coil springs never really caught on and the usual Exactoscale approach of the time, whilst theoretically okay wasn;t really practical. Jol
  15. Mike, having been there some years ago, I understand you apprehension but am sure that you will have a positive outcome. Jol Stephen, LRM are about to bring out a 4mm kit for the LNWR 20T six wheel brake van. I believe they will have the lamp brackets in lost wax cast brass. They will probably be available as a "spare part" to retrofit the 10T van. Jol
  16. Where he is concerned, BS means something else.
  17. The late Ray Earl, who produced several very nice EM exhibition layouts (I think one was called Ambridge), sometimes only completed the viewer's side of his models, including carriages as well as buildings.
  18. A search for George Allen railway model kits turns up very little but it does appear that they were designed by George Pring. His name then turns up in connection with Kemilway. That footbridge kit doesn't appear to have been taken over by any other kit producer, although there seem to be several laser cut wooden ones on offer. That is probably not really practical. Setting up such a repository would rely on the goodwill of the original designer/manufacturer in giving the artwork, designs or tooling away. Product ranges have disappeared because the owner wouldn't sell them, they became superseded by newer and possibly better kits/model, the original owner passed away and his offspring didn't know what to do with it (or thought it was worth a lot more thn it was) and so on. Some ranges pass into new hands but the new owner loses interest, can't cope with re-organising and re-producing products (Coopercraft) and a variety of other reasons. On occasion pride has overridden common sense and a range of products has simply disappeared. Fortunately some existing producers have taken over other ranges as the opportunity arose, including PPP, Wizard, Nucast Partners, London Road Models. Others have changed hands - eg. SEF/Stevenson Carriages which are now part of Squires. Older etched kits may will have been hand drawn and the original artwork may not still exist. It is possible that the etched tooling might, possibly with the etcher used to produce the kit components, but after a long time it is likely that they could have been scrapped. Some ranges are very badly documented (the original owner kept it all in their head) that resurrecting them is a very difficult task. Finally, such a repository would need organising and funding. Any volunteers?
  19. Hornby Dublo did this when they introduced one of their three rail diesel models, the Deltic, in 1960. The PR exercise was to demonstrate the power of the new Ringfield motor. Three Deltic locos hauled eight stone Miss Glenna Ferdinand on a "special trolley", which rather puts Sam's efforts (or the pulling power of recent RTR locos) to shame. Frankly however what Sam's stunt really has to do with model railways I don't know.
  20. Well, I did say theory, Mike. Perhaps it is/was based on the distance between PB and steel on the galvanic corrosion scale, but as we don't usually run our models under water, or even in very damp conditions, it may not be relevant. Jol
  21. They were usually plain from all the photos and drawings I have seen. I can't remember why I put a rivetted version on the etch but I must have had a good reason at the time.
  22. John, it is a brass casting and fits to the RH motion bracket (fireman's side). Contact John Redrup at LRM, although I know he is waiting for a batch of lost wax brass castings at present. All the down stream suppliers (etchers, casters, box manufacturers, etc.) seem to have long lead times at present. Jol
  23. He currently has four Studebakers for sale on ebay, one listed twice at different prices! A look at his other items for sale, listed at highest price first, shows an interesting and eclectic selection, many at seemingly very high prices. Given the number of items he has for sale and his ebay rating, he seems to be getting it right. An indication of the "collectors culture" he is selling into? Edited to add. He is adept at ascribing items in headings to well know highly regarded builders, then saying *possibly by" in the body of the advert . He has one Gauge 1 carriage I rather like the look of, but at his prices and descriptive record I wouldn't consider buying it without being able to inspect it first hand.
  24. Different things. One is a badly built and painted but reasonably accurate model of an LNWR six wheel carriage, the other is a superbly finished model of a generic coach purporting to be of an LNWR carriage (even then, the colour scheme is debateable).
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