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Chris M

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Chris M last won the day on August 7 2017

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  1. Whoops managed to post the same thing twice.
  2. I don’t know what has happened recently and I hope KRM get through things and all the GT3s get delivered to happy customers. Must say it reminds me of a dispute with a supplier I was involved in many years ago. A last minute alteration was needed to a supplied component when a fault was found in the way it fitted into the whole assembly at the assembling company. The supplier swiftly made the changes but wouldn’t release the components until we could agree on who caused the problem and who should pay for the fix. I’m not suggesting this is the case with the GT3, it just reminded me
  3. 147 hours doesn't sound great but 147 hours continuous running could mean that the loco stopped due to dirty wheels or needing oil; it doesn't necessarily mean anything had worn out. If locos are to be heavily used there needs to be a basic maintenance programme for them so they usually get care before they need it. My maintenance programme for N gauge locos was a wheel clean, very very light oil on visible gears and a careful check on running before every exhibition. Locos that displayed any running problems were removed immediately and given a full check over on return from exhibition, som
  4. Vary hard to say. You may well gain the experience to tell us what wears out first on various locos! I find my more used Dapol locos run better than the ones that spend long periods in storage. Nothing has worn out on any of my N gauge locos so far although my oldest one only dates back to 2012. They have had a fair bit of running at exhibitions and grandson sometimes gives them a full speed workout. I have heard on a couple of occasions that coreless motors don’t last long - possibly around 100 hours. All my locos with coreless motors are fine (running very well in fac
  5. I love the effort made to match the yellow paint when the above loco it was renumbered! Here's a UP loco hauling a freight with a couple of the doors open. I was surprised to find this loco was actually working. - it looked more like it was ready to be scrapped. This GP15 loco was in the same train just behind the locos pulling the train but was not working. It had been newly refurbished (its about 40 years old) and was being hauled to a yard where it would be a radio control shunter (or switcher if you speak American).
  6. Sorry to hear that as I love N gauge. These are small delicate, detailed models. They inevitably will be fragile and need to be handled with care. Never touch the valve gear and always pick them up using your thumb and a finger holding both the cab and tender. Minitrix and early Farish are much stronger but just aren’t very good representations of the real thing. Union Mills are also robust but they have a much lower level of detail and there aren’t any models in the range with external valve gear.
  7. Another common issue, but one which doesn't cause the symptons you have, is broken wires between loco and tender. Its best to check that these are ok if you want to get good running. I have replaced quite a few of these wires. My Manor and Grange are much higher mileage than the others and also seem to be the best runners. I do get on well with Dapol tender locos. Every one of mine runs well and I think they look good. My 9F was bought as a non runner from DCC supplies but a little bit of attention to the seating of the shaft in the loco fixed it. My Hall was bought brand new from
  8. Les' advice sounds very good to me. Whilst the Dapol drive system does need careful handling it does usually work reasonably well. I have noticed that leaving these locos in store for a long period is generally not good for their running but they usually come to life after a few laps of my layout. I find that the more they are used the better they run. The only thing I would add is to make sure that the cardan shaft is fully located in the loco and then slip it into the tender drive. If the shaft is not correctly seated it can cause the tender to wobble itself off the track.
  9. It hasn't arrived on Readly yet. I must say I do quite like Model Rail even though I would say it was aimed more at beginners to the hobby rather than gnarly old bu&&ers like me. Probably the best photos in any of the magazines. I say that with due respect to the other magazine photographers who are all very, very good; I just think Chris is just a tad above the others.
  10. In answer to the original question. Just take a feed from the CDU output that goes to the switches and touch the contacts on the point motor solenoid with this wire. If the solenoid flicks its the switch (or maybe a broken wire), if not its the solenoid.
  11. Based on my experience I'm surprised this is an issue. My experience of push to make switches used with a CDU is a good one. I can't recall having a failure despite using a pretty hefty CDU changing up to 5 points at a time in recent years. I've used those push to make switches since the 1980s and many have been re-used in different layouts. For my current project I purchased a batch from Squires and these are looking good at the moment. My solenoid point motors have been rather mixed. These are very small sample sizes so may not be meaningful but this is my experience over the last eight year
  12. So far as I am aware it was generally only Mk1 stock that appeared in BR chocolate & cream. The only exceptions that I know of were restaurant cars. There weren’t enough mk1 buffet/restaurants so some ex GWR versions were repainted into the old colours to make a complete set of chocolate & cream.
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