Steve51769

Hi Jon Sorry only just seen this reply - as far as I can remember you do need to swap the worm gear. I purchased a worm puller to do this but it wasn't needed. It came off easily with a pair of pliers on the shaft to push it along. The new motor is well worth the investment, mine now runs perfectly. Cheers Steve

Stratford 47 only just seen your reply . I purchased 1020D Coreless motor 12V with 7/10 mm adapters (2) + flywheel. It was a 15 minute job to swap it out. Only issue was the new motor needs a couple of winds of insulating tape around it to bulk it out to fit the frame otherwise it it too loose and slides backwards and forwards.

I purchased an N7 for £50 which had a motor fault. Replaced the motor with a new Tramfabrik motor and now runs like a dream.

A follow up to my earlier posting re. Stalling Oxford Rail N7. Thanks to the advice from PJR I purchased a new motor from Tramfabriek and have fitted it. It has the advantage over the original in that it has an additional flywheel. It now runs beautifully and very controllably. Job done.

A follow up to my earlier posting re. Stalling Oxford Rail N7. Thanks to the advice from PJR I purchased a new motor from Tramfabriek and have fitted it. It has the advantage over the original in that it has an additional flywheel. It now runs beautifully and very controllably. Job done. Steve

Getting back to the OP, I have the same issue with my N7 - does anyone know the spec of a replacement can motor for the N7?

It’s on DC and the wheels and rails are clean and current pick ups okay, it appears to be motor stall as nudging the flywheel resolves it.

I recently acquired a secondhand Oxford N7 - it's a beautiful looking model and runs very nicely 99% of the time, just occassionally it stalls and refuse to restart - either a quick tap on the top or removing the body and turning the flywheel gets it moving again. It's like there's a position on the motor armature where there is no electrical connectivity. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there an easy fix? Does the motor have to be replaced? If so where can I get one from? Any help greatly appreciated... Steve

They look fantastic, but will there be Crimson TLOs and CLs? The Accurascale website doesn't show any, only blue ones.

|Sadly not half etched. My drills are new, but don't appear to be good quality.

I’ve just started work on some Comet Mk1 CL coach side overlays. I was expecting them to come pre-drilled ready to fix hinges, door handles and grab handles etc. Sadly the sides are not drilled. I attempted to drill a hole for a T handle and found my drills barely scratched the surface. How do other people go about drilling the sides? Thanks in advance Steve

The Coronation set is nice if not a bit niche. They'e missed a trick,it must be about time for Hornby to produce a Gresley LNER Third Open to complement their current range. Thrid Opens were almost the most prolific type yet modellers have no RTR option. Perhaps it is time Accurascale or Bachmann brought out a range of Gresley Coaches.

Hi, I've got an old Airfix Class 31 that needs new traction tyres (was Airfix ref. 80009-3). Usually you can find compatibles, but I can find nothing online that lists itself as compatible. Does anyone know what alternatives fit? The inside diameter is 13mm amd the groove approx 1.5mm wide. Thank in advance Steve

Right, final update. I took miles73128 advice and used some spare Bachmann fixed couplings (shaped like vac pipes) that I had acquired with some Mk1s. Result - closer coupling, smoother running through curves and no derailing . Thanks to those who responded. One happy bunny here

Thanks for the suggestions. The coaches roll freely and the B2Bs are correct - I've supected the tension couplings on the auto aligners are the issue. However, I've followed Russ' suggestion and clipped 1mm off the bottom of the lift bars on the coupling hooks. This has made a great difference - they are not 100% better yet but no longer derail constantly on points and crossovers. I might try the Hunt couplings too - perhaps mounted on the bogie and dispense with the auto-aligner. I have had similar issues with the old Bachmann/Mainline couplings in the past, but even cutting the lifting bar on them does not always cure them. The chunky hooks seem to hold the coaches too tightly together preventing sufficient sideways play on crossovers.

This may have been covered before but I cannot find it in the search facility. I have two rakes of the newer (more expensive) Hornby detailed Gresley coaches. However, whilst they look really good they are driving me mad. They constantly derail - usually mid-set on points and crossings where none of my other coaches, mainly Bachman or older Hornby, derail. I’ve checked the back to backs with a gauge and they’re fine, the wheel sets are exactly the same as I’ve renewed in my other older coaches. Occasionally I find that the auto-aligning bar has dropped out of its runner, but that is not often. Help, can anyone suggest a cure as I am rapidly losing patience with them. TIA Steve

Which HMRS sheet is that PaulG? The ones I have (admittedly many years old) don't have these small numbers. Steve

Thanks for the replies. Etched plates took too heavy to my eye. I’ll try the Modelmaster ones and chop them up for my needs. Nearly £6 for a sheet with one number I need is too much when I have at least 5 locos to finish. cheers Steve

I was wondering if the collective on here could point me in the right direction. I've been trying find a supplier of sheets of Eastern Region 00 smokebox number plate numbers (individual number transfers not whole plates). I can find lots for cabside numbers but not smokebox number. Does anyone produce these? Is there a gap in the market here? I've tried using BR white coach numbers but the font is wrong. Thanks Steve

I thought I'd add a postscript to this saga. Having ordered and fitted the new wiring loom for the loco it didn't fixed the issue. Using a multimeter I worked my way carefully through the wiring on the tender and discovered a dry joint in the PCB for the decoder. I resoldered the errant joint and tried the loco - in fifty years of modelling I've never seen flames from a loco as the joint on the opposing polarity decided that it too had had enough and started to burn. After extinguising the flame (fortunately no damage done) I resoldered that joint too and the loco now runs like new. To my mind Hornby need to beef up some of the wiring and soldering in these models as in this loco it was decidely poor. The loco could have caught fire in the normal course of running - not something that I would wish on anyone. Regards Steve

OThank you Mike, You got me to investigate further. You are correct the motor runs fine when power is applied direct to it. This would point to a wiring fault. As the tender works fine with the D16 I will assume it’s the loom on the loco at fault. I’ve looked up the part on the Hornby service sheet (X6113) and checked Peters Spares site where sadly it is listed as out of stock. Any ideas if anyone else would stock/sell these? (Update found a source of equivalents on Ebay for £1 each). At least it is a step forward. regards Steve

Update - I’ve stripped it down. Plenty of room between can motor and flywheels. Tried disconnecting the capacitor but it makes no difference. Motor runs then stalls even when run out of frames. Since testing it out of the frames it’s got worse. Conclusion is that it’s the motor failing. So now on the lookout for new motor unit. Any ideas where I can get one from? regards Steve

Thanks for the replies. It doesn’t hum when it stalls it’s dead. I saw the reference to the flywheel and wondered if that was the cause. As I mentioned I’ve tried swapping the tenders with the D16 (as current collection it through the tender not loco) and it makes no difference. All wheels are clean as new. I think I need to strip the loco down and check all connections with a multimeter. I was hoping that this was an easy fix. regards Steve

Has anyone else had a problem with their new version Hornby B12/3 cutting out? It will run for a short while then stall. If I leave it with no power for a few seconds and it will move again when power applied, the longer you leave it the longer it runs for. It's not the controller (H&M Duette) as a second loco on the same circuit continues to move even when the B12 has stalled. I've checked the tender feed, by swapping it for the one on my D16, the D16 runs okay with the B12 tender, and the B12 still stalls with the D16 tender. Is there a thermal cutout on the loco? This problem started in the hot weather last week so I did wonder if it’s heat releated, though the weather is cooler this week. Any suggestions/help gratefully received. Thanks Steve

Has anyone else had a problem with their B12/3 cutting out? I will run for a short while then stall. If I leave it with no power for a few seconds and it will move again when power applied, the longer you leave it the longer it runs for. It's not the controller (H&M Duette) as a second loco on the same circuit continues to move even when the B12 has stalled. I've checked the tender feed, by swapping it for the one on my D16, the D16 runs okay the B12 still stalls. Is there a thermal cutout on the loco? This problem started in the hot weather last week so I did wonder if heat releated, though the weather is cooler this week. Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks Steve