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    .........Stevenage, Herts

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  1. I'm guessing from most of the answers here, that not many have been to Miniatur Wunderland! You'll start to get an appreciation of how long trains can be, they have multiple certificates from Guinness for worlds longest model train (they keep breaking their own record!) They have full length trains running all day, every day, a group of us (friends from the local MRC) went just before lockdown, we were blown away, it's incredible.
  2. Those counter-weights could double up as the knobs to rotate the roof.
  3. Clever, and the option for multiple m/switches is useful, when I fitted a 3-way point, I needed the extra m/switches for interlocking (saves bending switch blades!)
  4. You always dilute PVA with water, but you use w/up liquid as a 'water wetter', meths (wood alcohol) is a good replacement
  5. I think the general consensus was, that it was the w/up liquid (used to help the PVA flow) that was the cause of the 'green-ness', it tended not to happen if meths was used instead.
  6. The flip side of that is if the club owns its own premises, then the ongoing maintenance has to be considered. It might be necessary to spend money to keep the clubhouse in a reasonable condition for when we can re-open, so asking for money to ensure the club members have a clubhouse to come back to after lockdown is a reasonable request. Also, looking for the silver lining in this difficult situation, is that any major refurbishment or improvement work could be carried out while the building is not in use, without getting the usual objection of 'but I can'
  7. I've used Lincs in 7mm, for an exhibition Inglenook, designed for 'hands-on' use. The controller was at the front and kids were encouraged to have a go at doing the puzzle (it was named Havatry) The Lincs were very good, with a couple of comments:- Firstly, I had some of the steel wires detach, or start to rotate in the solder joint, I got round this by scraping the wire with the back of a Stanley blade, to create flats, like an old thrupenny bit. Secondly, magnetism can be a problem, initially I kept the 3-link couplings, but I should have converted to
  8. I would agree with Pete, follow the instructions, also use a liquid solvent weld, Humbrol Liquid Poly works, and is easily available, but I would use a smaller brush for precision work. Also, I would advise using something flat to assemble it on, plate glass (old shelf) worktop off-cut, etc, much easier to maintain a flat chassis.
  9. Hmm, I like that, I shall put it to 'the collective'
  10. We, a group of mates from out local MRC, are building an 0 gauge exhibition layout (we know, we're not rushing it now!) that started as an idea based on the number of 'bubble' cars that we owned between us, so we named the layout Bubbleton. I'm hoping to get the station called Bubbleton Road, to save modelling the actual town!
  11. So, did you drill it out, cut it with a razor saw, or just collapse an end? This is the question that we need an answer to!
  12. AFAIR, there were 2 versions, one had the engine in the trailer bit, which pushed the whole affair along, the other was a more normal approach, with the engine driving the axle of the bus part, which then just towed the trailer. I'm not sure which was the better design (both had their pro's and con's) or which was the more prone to catching fire!
  13. Is that one up from photographic mounts?
  14. You only really need that with coaches that have corridors to connect, which none of these do.
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