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Jon4470

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  1. Hello Tony Looking forward to seeing the Raven A2 build - one of my favourite classes of loco. Here’s my version of “the second one” 2401 City of Kingston upon Hull (or rather it will be when I get around to painting it) This will be the earlier incarnation with 6 wheel tender and Westinghouse pump. I bought this loco structurally complete. I corrected a few errors and added the detailing. I tried to add to, rather than rebuild, the loco as I wanted to keep the essence of the original build. I believe that this is a Jamieson hand cut kit. If not, then it was scratch built using the style of Jamieson kits. Jon
  2. I now have a set of notes on how I plan to build the ECJS - it’s become the modelling equivalent of a musical ear worm! - which I now need to draw up neatly and file away with the etch. More important modelling activity to do first. Also I’ve started pondering the shunting moves in the sidings........ Despite these (enjoyable) distractions. I’ve made some more progress on my current projects. The BFK has the roof filling finished ( needs ventilators etc though) and the rest of the body is also primed. Getting quite close to teak time! I’ve also finished off the last bits on the D20. The inspection hatch is now in brass - because the glue deformed the plastic one The above photo was the body masked ready for painting and below shows it re-painted On the tender I replaced the Dave Alexander chassis - it was a lump of white metal that was very heavy Replacement was some Alan Gibson frames that I found in the kit box. I added the Westinghouse reservoir to the frames as well Next steps with the D20 are to paint the buffer beams and then start the red lining. When I do this I plan to paint and line the A2 as well. Whether that will be good for my blood pressure I’m not sure Jon
  3. Hello Brian It’s good to see you making progress with the build. Re the handrail I agree with what Mick says about forming it and I always solder/ glue the handrail knobs in after forming the handrail. To add my two penny worth. I form an upside down U shape from the handrail wire. The curve should match the smokebox curvature but a slightly smaller radius. Then the hand rail bends out at around at 30 degree (I guess) bend. After that it is bent at 90 degree along the boiler. The result is like one half of a pair of wire frame spectacles. Hopefully you can see these transitions on the attached photo (apologies that it is blurry....it’s enlarged from another photo). I would suggest practising on some wire off cuts to get the formation correct without worrying about the precise fit. Also be prepared to make mistakes and start again! Jon
  4. Hello Chas I have no doubt in my mind that you will make an excellent job of lining the side panels. Your work so far has been fantastic- fully repaying your patience and persistence. Keep up the good work! Jon
  5. Thank you Chas. One thing that I am really pleased about, is that the joins between all the various bits of donor panels are (more or less) invisible. It did have the potential to go completely wrong! So, that success got me thinking about a long term project idea....... This is an etch that I got from Peter K ( think that was the name). It’s a Diagram 79 ECJS Dining Composite and runs on two 6 wheel bogies. However, there are a few problems with this project! First - the doors should be recessed and not flush. Second - the sides have been etched as mirror images...and they weren’t! One side is correct. The other side needs a whole section of windows and a door to be re-arranged/ replaced - the bit outlined in green. With my new found confidence I’m thinking what could be so difficult about all of that? I read up on Graeme Kings topic on the LNER forum (saw that you had commented on it Chas). Most interesting build and it confirms the other problem....no one knows much about these carriages after they were built. Things like gas or electric light etc Anyway that etch is back in its box, it’s a project for 2022 I think (maybe) The next up on the build list, once I’ve cleared the carriage and D20, is this little beauty ( that dropped through my letter box a couple of weeks ago) The loco doesn’t have a wonky chimney and bent cab....that’s just the paper folds! Jon
  6. Hi Elliott Definitely food for thought! I like lateral thinking - DCC the NG layout and not the loco. The overall consist proposal makes sense as well. Now, I had not been planning to use DCC, but I guess that I could use it just on the NG section (using the method that you describe) and, maybe, also just have the Standard gauge sidings as “optional for DCC” for use when shunting. That way I would be able to create the consist as in your post. I also tend to think in terms of the flip card mentality I.e “ the next move is....” when planning the sequence of moves. I do see that this would help to fill the gaps for anyone watching the shunting. I will mull this over......need to build the base boards first though! All this electrical stuff has the potential (pun intended) to really confuse me! Jon
  7. Hello Elliot. Welcome to the topic! Thank you for the kind comments about the models. Even more thanks, though, for posting the description of the shunting. It is fantastic to have that type of information passed on. I think most photos of the drops show 3 standard gauge wagons above them - so that makes sense as well. As an aside, it should be interesting trying to model empty wagons being shunted by the narrow gauge and a steel hawser - I’m aware that Highlevel do a fly shunt arrangement...but I bet the motor fills the wagon! With regard to the wagon you mention - yes there was one with a bogie at one end and a pair of wheels at the other. It was an open wagon (not one of the hoppers) and, allegedly it was “home made” by the gas works. I think it was wooden and used for loco coal. It will have to be modelled at some point! Jon PS I grew up in the south and therefore have a soft spot for all (railway) things Southern!
  8. I’ve managed to make progress on the carriage....it now has a roof and underframe: There are still plenty of details to fit on the roof....but there’s a bit more filling and sanding to do first. I thought the underframe was finished......until I noticed the footboard has come loose under the brake compartment in the second photo! On the body I think it just needs the ventilators above the doors. Jon
  9. Hello Mick Thanks for the reply and, at the risk of sounding like I’m contradicting myself, I think I agree with you. Once the sides are fully soldered they are quite stiff and it occurred to me that they are effectively double thickness in places. So, I find that I need quite a lot of force to bend the sides and it takes a long time to get the smooth curve that the turn under should have. There is also the risk of damage to the upper panels if, or when, I slip....I wonder how I know.... Two experiments come to mind....bend the sides and panels separately......or solder the panels on one edge only (top or bottom) which should allow the side a bit more flexibility while forming the side and panel at the same time. Also I had a thought after reading your comment, and realised that I can test this on the remains of the BCK sides ( I used this initially as a donor). At least that way I’m not messing about with a real build. As for the A2, it is still in “photographic grey”! I’m building up for a painting session...followed by a lining session. Jon
  10. Thank you both for the positive comments. Maybe I should clarify my thoughts a bit... I’m pleased with the carriage - after all it is the first time that I have “cut and shut” a kit and I was not certain that it would turn out presentable. It is true that there are a couple of small compromises as a result of the donor parts, but nothing major. When I build a kit I like to improve on the last one - adding extra detail, improving my methods etc. That is why, On this kit, there are some modifications to my usual sequence of assembly as described in my last post. I’ll see if the help...... Improvements for the next kit are 1) concentrate on using less solder 2) consider forming the turn under to the sides before fitting the lower panels. That should make it easier to form.....but I’d need to form the side and panels separately....and accurately Anyway, as far as the model is concerned, it nearly has a roof now. Hopefully that will be fixed on during the week. (And I want complete the last few bits on the D20) Jon
  11. During the (working) week I find that I’m only able to fit in small chunks of modelling time. Nevertheless I was able to progress the sides of the carriage and fit the droplights and door hinges. So I ended up with two sides thus: The front of the carriage is to the right. Today I was able get these fully prepped and then attached to the other section.....it starts to look like a carriage now It is actually sitting on the floor pan....and seems to be square! I’m going to have a real good look tomorrow to make sure that it really is square - it would be easy for one side to be longer than the other after all the cutting and filing. There are a number of experiments on this build. I’ve decided to leave the door handles and grab rails off until I have finished the painting and lining. That will make lining easier but I’ll have to glue the fittings in. I have also soldered the internal corridor handrail in place while the side was flat. It is much easier to get it horizontal at the stage. The challenge will be to keep paint off it! (Hence the masking tape in the above photo). Finally I have also put the double sided tape (that will hold the windows) in place. Again much easier to get in place while the sides are flat. Hopefully, after painting, I’ll be able to pull off the the backing paper and stick the windows in. The photo below should show this and the corridor handrail The white strips are the backing for the double sided tape. The window “glass” will be inserted from below - the top will be held in the slot above the window opening and the bottom will be stuck to the tape.....That’s the theory anyway.... And I’ve also made some notes about the next carriage.......one of these is to use about a quarter of the solder that has gone on the inside of this carriage Apologies for the blobby soldering. Jon
  12. Likewise...my order is now placed! Really glad that this kit has been released and there is absolutely no rush to despatch the kit. Jon
  13. I Went to the show this morning and I echo the previous posts. There was a good selection of layouts and it was just really good to get to a show again! Oh ....I also learnt that spiders are conductive! Jon
  14. The brake third is designed to have a guards ducket which is fitted in place of a panel in the position marked “A” on this photo The simplest approach was to cut the whole end section off and replace it. The score line is along the door outline - marked with the red arrow. Ten minutes later we have: After that I fitted the droplights and hinges while the sides were not attached to anything. Finally, the ends and sides were put together to form the van section like this I’m pleased with the progress this weekend. Jon
  15. This is the first time that I have done a cut and shut - in brass at least. It is going surprisingly well so far.......... Today I have “ discovered” that the BFK doesn’t Have a ducket in the Brake section.... so now I need a replacement panel. (I think that there is a suitable one from the donor etch) From what I can tell, the key issue will be to see if the overall length turns out to be correct ( aside form whether it all looks straight, sticks together etc) Jon
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