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  1. Talking of the roof colour.... The LNER roofs in the 1920’s and 1930’s were painted white. They used white lead paint and this reacted with the atmosphere to turn grey over time. Also the soot deposits from the loco exhaust would colour and weather the roof. The combination of these effects meant that a train would have a mixture of roof colours, with the majority being different shades of grey. For the Northern Belle the coaches were spruced up specifically for the tour and the photos ( albeit publicity shots) show the whole train with white roofs. I’ve decided to model the coaches for this train with white roofs lightly weathered with soot from the loco. I think a pure white roof looks too clean and it wouldn’t take long for soot to start building up. When I model other trains I will certainly include some dark grey roofs...the majority will most likely be light grey. That will be convenient because I will be able to use Halfords grey primer for those! Jon
  2. I have carried out more sanding of the roof. I think it’s about right now......but then I thought so before! The process is iterative- fill, sand, paint, repeat.... In the course of this work I realised that I have forgotten to add grab rails ( for the water fillers), the alarm gear tell tale and the destination board brackets. So some more work to do before the final coat of paint on the roof. Jon
  3. Very little modelling progress at the moment, for a number of reasons. Firstly work; I work in distribution and the week of Black Friday is, shall we say, hectic! It won’t slow down for a few days....then it’s Xmas. Secondly, family birthday...my Uncle’s 100th. He’s full of stories and mischievous with it as well...so we had a great day. More importantly, he had a great day. The birthday was in Hampshire, so we took the opportunity to have a short break. On the way back we stayed in Oxford. The route took us past Abingdon and so a quick detour was made to see Pendon Museum! My first visit and very impressive. Jon
  4. The RKB is out of my modelling era ..... but I like a bit of detective work so I will keep my eyes open! Steve Banks’ web site has a section on LNER buffet cars and at the bottom of the page it says “to be continued to cover British Rail developments” ( or words to that effect). So you never know ... could be worth keeping an eye on. Jon
  5. I use Halfords Matt white rattle can primer for the teak coaches. For a darker finish to the teak then red oxide would be suitable I guess....something to try out one day. This first application is really made so that I can see any further filling and sanding that is required. This is especially true of the roof ends. At this stage I hold the carriage on the inside and spray lightly all over. (Hand inside latex glove!) In this way I can get paint into most of the detail areas. The end result is This coat has highlighted the imperfections on the roof Plenty more sanding and filling required there! Once I’ve done that then the final primer coat will go on. Jon
  6. Last night I also cleaned the carriage ready for priming. First stage was to clean mechanically - I use a fibreglass pencil for this. The downside is that I put up with the occasional fibre that gets into my fingers, with a bit of practice they come out with a pair of tweezers! I tried wire wool once but found that I had strands of wire everywhere, so it was back to the fibre glass. Much more controllable I think. After this stage I then clean chemically. I use Cif in warm water and the undiluted Cif on a tooth brush to scrub the coach thoroughly. Once all that is done it is rinsed under a running tap to make sure all of the dirt is removed. Then leave to dry overnight and it looks like this: Now ready for priming. Jon
  7. Thanks.....I agree that the little touches make the difference. Hopefully practice will make it easier
  8. Update on the D23A. Yesterday I fitted the water tank filler pipes. This is the first time that I’ve added these.....very fiddly and almost invisible! Not sure whether they are worth the effort, but, because I know that they should be there, I’ll bet that I fit them from now on. Ouch - that’s a cruel close up photo! Jon
  9. Hi Andy Having popped in occasionally to your workbench thread I have decided to follow this. Looking forward to seeing how the layout develops and getting tips to help me with my, eventual, layout. Jon
  10. That’s looking good. Although not my modelling era it does bring back childhood memories....I had a Triang Freightliner wagon in the 1960’s or 70’s. I do like the scratch built caboose - looks the part. I tend to think that a small amount of modelling each evening is a great way to move things along....and isa good way to relax. As for the weather and spraying, I think that you need to ask Santa for one of these https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_407_33&products_id=20707 Although you’d get the same effect by having a big cardboard box, an old extractor fan and a tumble dryer hose! Jon
  11. Hi Scott Thanks for the kind comments. I really admire the ease ( and speed) with which you seem to create your scratchbuilds - they really look the part. I will be doing a few more narrow gauge wagons. One more hopper is required. There is also a peculiar coal wagon with a bogie at one end and a fixed axle at the other. Finally there is a pair of tank wagons for tar and ammonia - these will most likely be the next wagons that I tackle. I’m getting close to painting the D23A coach so will post details as that progresses. The process I use is borrowed from Mike Trice who described it on a thread called Improving Teak Finish - or similar. I start with Halfords rattle can white primer all over. If you want a darker effect then use red oxide. The next coat is a base coat using Vallejo acrylic paint in shades of orange and light brown. Different shades of base are used on different panels to give the chequerboard effect. Once dry dry it is then varnished...and left to dry thoroughly. The grain is applied using oil paints, usually burnt umber, applied with a stiff, flat square brush. Allow to dry......for days. After that then it is more gloss varnish, then lining, then transfers. I recommend this process because it gives very acceptable results very easily ( and with practice gets much better) and because oil paints give, not unnaturally, an oil paint type of finish....which is what the colour photos from the 1930’s look like in my opinion. Jon
  12. Hi Tom I agree with Nile...my first port of call would be wizard. In my experience delivery is very quick. As for attaching the axle boxes. They can be glued - superglue gel as suggested or 2 part epoxy Would both work. i would solder them, but that is personal preference only. To solder white metal to brass you need to tin the brass with 145degree solder and then attach with 70 degree solder. This really requires a temperature controlled soldering iron. You can use higher temperature solder to attach the white metal..... but that is where you run the risk of melted castings! (This is where the skill really kicks in) If I was you I’d glue them on this time. If you want to learn how to solder it is best to practice first....brass to brass, then white metal to white metal and finally white metal to brass. As for 3D cad and 3 D printing - they are on my list of skills to acquire. I too find it fascinating that an object can be printed. Jon
  13. That’s looking good. That second photo answers ( I think) a question that I had. Namely, do you cut the sides from one sheet or build it up from 2 side panels and a central door section. Looks like one sheet to me withe the framing added after scribing, is that correct? Jon
  14. Tom As I don’t have the 3D cad skills, or a printer for that matter, I would attach white metal axle boxes. They have the advantage of adding some weight low down on the chassis as well. Jon
  15. Maybe worth explain a bit about this coach.... The D23a Hairdressing/ cocktail bar coach. This was based on a standard corridor third coach with 8 compartments. However, for this coach, 2 compartments at one end were converted into a hairdressing salon and waiting room. Also, at the opposite end, 2 compartments were converted into a cocktail bar. The coach was used in the Flying Scotsman set until 1938 (when the entire train was upgraded). The coach was then converted to a standard 3rd class coach. This coach was seconded to the Northern Belle touring set each year - it was the only 3rd class coach in the public part of the train. The visible differences for the coach versus the standard corridor 3rd are as follows. Corridor side looks quite normal - except only the two central doors have handles. The other two doors were sealed shut. As for the compartment side, the differences are easier to spot. Again only the central doors open (4 doors on this side) The other doors have been replaced by a different window layout. Cocktail bar is to the left hand end in this view. Jon
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