Class59driver

"The only problem with joining bridges only a couple of inches long is actually fitting them between the modules !" Yes, I can imagine, but my: "Then take your loose section and have it (the birch ply with track attached) sit in a recess on each board as they are slid together," how can that be a problem? Everything is done from above - no struggling through holes or needing a support - the modules are the support. You fit the loose section (was bridge?) onto the fishplates as it snugs down into it's recess on one board and align the second end whilst sliding the second board up against the first, then apply the clamp, then move down the tables to the next pair. The only problem is chaps will get in the way as you are moving along quicker than expected! Don't forget to take the loose sections and the clamps. Every board supplies two of each; that's one of each spare. If I was making modules (which I am not as I have no car) I would join mine my way and the other ends your way so you could see how simple and swift my method is. Have fun, Mike.

Hi all I'm new here, but having read your ideas so far I think you are going to come unstuck with that 6" joining section. Years ago I had a modular layout in 0 gauge tinplate (yes, Hornby) and I joined the sections with small 2-3" sections of track that slotted in vertically onto brass fingers that went up the middle of the tinplate. Worked well, with the loose fit allowing for any slight inaccuracies. Now, so far your moduals are loose in relation to each other? So what if one gets knocked out of line? Shouldn't they be g-clamped together? Then take your loose section and have it (the birch ply with track attached) sit in a recess on each board as they are slid together, apply the clamp or otherwise lock them together - now that they are together. Now, like my joining piece, yours only needs to be a couple of inches long.