colin penfold

We have a dcc fitted rolling chassis! Plunger pickups fitted to the tender and connecting wire sorted, loco pickups and motor attached to DCC harness and chip/speaker/stayalive temporarily connected for testing.

Here's some local news that may be of interest to folks on here https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2723547671075138&id=345550252208237

Thanks to the extraordinary service of Peters Spares the Bachmann 00 scale buffers I ordered yesterday are now fitted. Seen in position, then simulated normal running, tight curve, then finally tender first running.

The state of play at present is as follows with some major parts loosely placed in position for effect. Thanks to @Scale7JB for the tip about barkeepers friend, it's come up nice and shiny! Plan from here is to paint the tender chassis black, then fit pickups sort out buffing arrangements between tender and loco (either 4mm scale buffers or foam draft excluder) shorten body screws where necessary and ensure fitting will go to plan position DCC chip, speaker and wiring in loco chassis spray tender and loco bodies with pre-primer rattle can primer tender and loco bodies spray bodies with airbrush fit lining transfers assemble chassis to bodies and test run fit all loose detail parts (chimney, dome, safety valves, whistle, clack valves etc, pipes, reversing lever, sand boxes, cab details, tender floor, couplings, buffer heads and vac pipes) brush paint all detail areas. For something that looks quite close that feels like an awful lot of work still to do!

How's the horse Barry, still galloping??

A real world example for you. Not sure if you have space for the leisure centre

Absolutely Michael. I checked with Laurie Griffin in case I'd made an error and this was his kind response Hello Colin, It looks like you've come up with a novel solution to a common problem. I sometimes think Railway Designers in the late 19th Century must have got together and said, "what can we do to make people in the future who make models of our loco's difficult"? You have hit a common problem. Real tenders didn't tend to have buffers with big nuts projecting inside the area taken up by things like wheels, brake pivots etc. On many the nut/spigot on the buffer stock co-incides with the frame. I have solved it variously by not springing the buffersw, cutting away the spigot and getting rid of the nut, using a split pin to hoild the buffer in etc. You've just found another way round the problem - well done for a bit of lateral thinking!!! Looks a fine solution to me. Best wishes Laurie Griffin www.lgminiatures.co.uk

Thanks for the suggestion JB but i needed to bring them forward to enable the brake blocks to line up with the wheel treads rather than the flanges. The brakes are perpendicular and line up with the treads. I'm pretty sure the kit was designed for rigid buffers and it's an issue caused by the extra bulk of the sprung buffers.

The logo is cleaverly positioned

That's an A5 envelope which you should know is for roundy layouts. For terminus to fiddleyard you need a DL. I'm suprised a man of your calibre would make such a basic technical error... Iris St. Ationery

Double headed with 60537 Brazilian ?

The 3d one is diagram 136 though? Confused of Norfolk PS teams always play better when I'm not watching them....

Option 1 https://www.mousa.biz/fourmm/coach/sides/SR/ironclad_sides4.html Option 2 http://www.rue-d-etropal.com/3D-printing/passenger-stock-sr/3d_printed_lswr-plymouth-pushpull.htm

An opportunity for some modelling and progress made. Firstly, I decided that the tender chassis wasn't running freely enough. I therefore admitted defeat and bought a poppys woodtech loco builder box. I completely disassembled the tender chassis and remade it using the box. Success first time, proving that looking square and actually being square are subtly different things! Having now got a free running tender chassis I can finish the tender ready for painting at the same time as the loco. First job was the brake gear I am worried about the potential for shorts caused by metal brake gear touching metal wheels so I try to produce insulated brake gear. For the tender I used plastic tube to allow me to gap the wires between brakes, thus I superglued a small bit of wire to each brake hanging point, with a small piece of tube as a spacer Here are the brakes in position on the hangers with the control rods glued in place and a control rod made of plastic rod, with the cast brake lever attached at the point below the handbrake lever. There won't be any other rodding, as it's invisible when running and life's too short! Here is a view with the tender body loosely placed on top Which is when I discovered the problem! The body of the sprung buffers occupies the same space as the top of the rearmost brakes As you can see from these pictures the chassis fits under the body exactly so there is no mistake on my part. The wheels align with the axle boxes so here is the conflict My solution is to use the same wire and tube to do the top mount on the rear brakes. I glued a right angled piece of wire into each end of a length of tube. I glued the tube to the underside of the chassis and the wire to the back of the brake levers. When the glue is properly hard I will then cut away the top of the two brake levers to clear the buffer bodies, i.e. removing the section of brake lever above the wire (below in the photo) No doubt the force of cutting will break the glue joint and I will have to swear and re-do it, but that's for another day now... I also quickly knocked up a drawbar which will be bolted in place using the rear body fixing screw on the loco and simply hooked onto the tender Next job will be to refit the plunger pickups to the tender wheels

I am very pleased you are back Phil. This thread is like an award winning vasectomy clinic. A brilliant source of harmless bollo@ks You are also a highly skilled modeller, by the way!

That's geese, isn't it ??

Anywhere in the South Hams district, really....

Found this but I can't see anywhere what scale they are https://www.alwayshobbies.com/model-boats/model-boat-fittings?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsbrxBRDpARIsAAnnz_NhCpVI92aS6l1Hqp_GdzNiULSFZYEI6F3CfvCHflF0e0mxzfL4MMcaAmjUEALw_wcB#q=ptype.Fenders

Yes Ade they are. Very nice with a good weight to them too. Each one comes with the fittings and bar for tarpaulins, should you want to fit them.

Happy birthday to me, happy birthday to me, happy birthday dear meeeee, happy birthday to me.....

Thanks that's a good tip and I will get some. I had actually finished soldering a while ago and plan a clean up after i have done some abrasive work on the body. When I was soldering I tried to keep the brass cleaner using a product called grease off which worked OK. I will definitely give your stuff a try. I will also try using the 145 for main work on my next project. This job will be glue from this point forward, as it's just adding small details.

Thanks Felix. It's a real light railway classic and a decent kit if not the easiest one I could have chosen