Jump to content

Tricky Dicky

Members
  • Content Count

    173
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tricky Dicky

  1. You want to look in the 4mm sockets section of your suppliers catalogue where you will find variations of these which are basically a 4mm socket but combine a binding post https://www.rapidonline.com/truconnect-4mm-binding-post-with-m4-thread-red-17-0065 but if you after a traditional brass binding post then you will probably be out of luck and the nearest to it will be something like this https://www.rapidonline.com/truconnect-uninsulated-earth-terminal-17-0795 Richard
  2. I have stuck loads of cable trunking with double sided tape and generally it stays put the only times they have detached is when stuck to a friable surface. Unsealed wood is a problem particularly MDF, you just need to seal it with paint or varnish and most tapes will hold. The best type to use is the type with a foam core and the most reliable tapes are the ones used in the double glazing industry for fixing trims my local double glazing materials supplier does a range of widths and thicknesses and cheap too. Richard
  3. It's a while since I dealt with an LS150 but I do recall it does not have a built in CDU as some points decoders do, so assuming you are using solenoid motors it is probably down to a lack of current to shift several points at once. I believe if you have several LS150s the solution is to spread route setting across several decoders. Sorry it is not a very helpful answer. Richard
  4. When looking up switches that only stay momentarily on look for (on)-off-(on) in the description the brackets around the on indicate the action is only momentary. Personally I do not think it is helpful simply monitoring a switch position as it does not tell you if the point has actually moved. Using either an inbuilt switch in the point motor or a micro-switch attached to the point is more accurate but it does mean more wiring. One possible solution to simply show which way the switch was moved is to use a on-off-on switch alongside a (on)-off-(on) switch mounting both close to ea
  5. Having only watched the video and not read the manual for the megapoints controller it would appear that each channel is activated by taking the input pin to 0V that would lend itself to be being controlled by a PIC microcontroller such as PICAXE or Arduino. It should be a fairly simple process to produce a program so a single switch can be used to produce a sequence of outputs to set a route. Richard
  6. Not according to Kirchhoff's Laws, 6 LEDs each with their own current limiting resistor, all in parallel will result in the total current drawn equalling the sum of all the individual currents. So assuming each LED + resistor draws say 10mA then the total current drawn will equal 60mA. If you then wire your circuit boards in series and connect to a 14V supply then you are creating a voltage divider with 7V dropping across each circuit board. Richard
  7. I am with Smokebox on this and as the OP had not replied we are not sure if we are dealing with LEDs or filament bulbs. The fact the supplier cannot say if resistors are included casts doubt on if they are even LEDs in the first place. I think if the OP gets a multimeter the first thing I would measure is the current drawn by the lamps, grain of wheat/rice bulbs if I remember correctly should draw about 60-80mA. Anything less and it is likely LED. If they turn out to be filament bulbs then before adding resistors to control brightness, wiring a couple in series will red
  8. David I have to admire your tenacity in your anti resistor crusade but I have to ask to what purpose? Most of us will probably power our LEDs using re-purposed wall warts or phone chargers whose voltage inevitably will not match Vf of any LEDs used so will have to resort to using resistors anyway. The few who will use batteries will inevitably ask themselves is it worth risking their LEDs for the saving of a few pence in resistors and a few seconds of soldering. So again I say WHY? Richard
  9. Thanks for pointing out the above. In the past I have been castigated for expressing concerns about the use of Scotchlok type of connectors which are a perfectly capable connector if care is taken to ensure the wire sizes are within the design parameters but can be problematic when wire sizes are markedly different. The only non soldering fast connector I recommend are the Wago lever type, these will grip wires up to 4mm2 and can personally vouch will grip wires down to 7/0.2 having tested such to destruction where the wire shredded before the Wago let go. The only downside is they come at a p
  10. Here we go again! I am surprised we have got so far into 2019 before this old chestnut has surfaced. I cannot believe we are arguing over a component that costs 1p requires a few seconds soldering and ensures a circuit is correct! Richard
  11. Yes. If you intend to use the same power supply @12V then start with a 1K resistor although I think you will have to double the value to get a realistic light effect. Richard
  12. The short answer is yes. Each 3 LED strip already has a resistor which is why you only require a suitable power source @12V adding further resistance in series for the strip going in the signal box will have the effect of dimming the light emitted. What you cannot do is use less than 3 LEDs per strip. Richard
  13. You should be OK as long as you cut them off the tape in multiples of three where indicated. If you are using them as overall illumination then as indicated you will need a 12V battery. If using them to illuminate the insides of buildings you might want to consider using a smaller voltage battery to give a more realistic light. How long your battery will last will depend on individual cell size. Richard
  14. I can confirm the circuit works, I used BC108 transistors. Richard
  15. I think a much simpler solution just requires TR2 & TR3 and the two 10K base resistors. If you have wired your panel exactly as Brian Lambert has in the circuit you showed. Then connect the Collectors of the two transistors to their respective LEDs in the signal and the emitters to the 0V connection as in Rick-H's diagram. Instead of connecting the 10K base resistors as shown simply connect them directly to terminals D & E on the SEEP PM1. The way the circuit works is that as the switch is used to switch between the panel LEDs it also switches between the transistors which when trigger
  16. I don't know if there is still some experimenting going on with the look of the pages but at the weekend a number of tabs appeared in the bottom of the RMWeb banner similarly last weekend but during last week and today they have disappeared. Has the forum developed a "Sunday best" mode? i am using an iPad 2 which is well past it's best, could that be the problem? Richard
  17. Great to see the new Power & Control sub forum, just need to get Computer Control & Automation in here and it will be perfect. Richard
  18. Apologies if someone has mentioned this already in the 26 pages of posts but can it be possible to restore the one button press to get you back to the home page. Richard
  19. Are we still "decision pending" on this matter as well as the related Computer Control placement, or is it no change? Richard
  20. A 40 - 60W soldering station with temperature control should see you right for all you are considering. As someone has already mentioned it is a load of b*****ks that you cannot fine solder with a high power iron as long as you can fit different tips you can solder whatever. On the subject of tips do look at how easy it is to swap tips some can be a right mare after a few heat cycles and oxidation has taken place. Richard
  21. The amperage of the circuit will depend on the current draw of what is wired to the power supply, I.e, a single LED with suitable resistor will draw say 10mA. For any given power supply there is a maximum output, I do not know what that maximum is for your Duette but there should be a plate on it that should give you that information. It is not a good idea to operate your power supply at maximum over a protracted time and it is advisable to leave a little head room. If you can find out what the current draw of your lamps is then if they are wired in parallel all you need to do is add their val
  22. I cannot understand why you do not want to solder them on, it's going to give you the most secure connection. Richard
  23. Not having visited this topic much since my last post I did not realise what a lively debate ensued. In my original post I was careful not to suggest that Automation & Computer Control was put into the DCC section as there is no reason why a DC layout can not be controlled by computer although most equipment and software available is targeted at DCC systems. Also quite a few DC layouts demonstrate automation using readily available kit. My main aim was to establish a single point where these two related topics could be dealt within a single sub forum and not as now across several sub f
  24. I have a reel of solder which I cannot remember where I acquired it but it is very badly oxidised and is difficult to solder with mainly I think because the cored flux is insufficient to keep the oxides suspended. I keep meaning to try additional flux to see if it improves soldering but I am still working through another reel first. Richard
  25. A capacitor wired in series will not pass current through, it needs to wired across the output of the rectifier. Richard
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.